TL-S Misfire? What is the correct compression?
Thread Starter
Ryan's loving his ATLP TL


Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 561
Likes: 2
From: New York, Woodstock
So my car since I have had the XLR8 Mounts, I now notice my car deffinitelly has a slight misfire. Also when I accelerate around 1-3500K tugs a bit, hot or cold. Now I did a compression test on all 6 cyliders under the spark plugs. I saw the compression go as high as 270PSI and then another had as low as 150psi. Curious what IS the normal compression? And what issues do YOU believe I am going through. Videos will follow of the tests.
I'm sure you can find the spec on Google or on here but the goal is to have all 6 cylinders very close to one another. Very genreally speaking you can get misfires when compression gets down in the 100psi range but that varies greatly from engine to engine.
The test should be with all plugs out, the faster the engine turns the higher the compression will be. Throttle should be open as well, this also raises compression.
Just did a quick search, manual says minimum of 135psi with a maximum of a 28psi varience. In searching it looks like several people have had all cylinders in the mid 140s and some have had all cylinders in the bottom 200s. It's probably the difference in those that do the test with no plugs and the throttle open vs those that don't.
Misfires due to compression will show up at idle first when dynamic compression is at it's lowest. You're not going to get a misfire from loss of compression under load and not at idle. I would start checking ignition components. How did the plugs look?
Oh, and the 270psi was probably a fluke or you have some serious carbon buildup which is nearly impossible oryou have a failing cam or waaaaay too much lash which is also nearly impossible beause you would have other symptoms such as loss of high end power.
The test should be with all plugs out, the faster the engine turns the higher the compression will be. Throttle should be open as well, this also raises compression.
Just did a quick search, manual says minimum of 135psi with a maximum of a 28psi varience. In searching it looks like several people have had all cylinders in the mid 140s and some have had all cylinders in the bottom 200s. It's probably the difference in those that do the test with no plugs and the throttle open vs those that don't.
Misfires due to compression will show up at idle first when dynamic compression is at it's lowest. You're not going to get a misfire from loss of compression under load and not at idle. I would start checking ignition components. How did the plugs look?
Oh, and the 270psi was probably a fluke or you have some serious carbon buildup which is nearly impossible oryou have a failing cam or waaaaay too much lash which is also nearly impossible beause you would have other symptoms such as loss of high end power.
Thread Starter
Ryan's loving his ATLP TL


Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 561
Likes: 2
From: New York, Woodstock
Yeah, I took out ALL sparkplugs and I had replaced the sparkplugs prior not even a month ago. Still had the issue. So I just did the compression test. The odd part is only 2 of the cyliders did the same 150PSI and then the rest were like... 250PSI or so. I'll post the videos of us doing it tomorrow. Yeah. The interesting part is. I DID get codes: PO300,PO303, PO306,PO305, but then I did seafoam in the intake and oil and turned off the car and turned it back on 15 mins later and since then, the check engine codes have been gone. MAYBE is is carbon buildup? It's odd. :/
Thread Starter
Ryan's loving his ATLP TL


Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 561
Likes: 2
From: New York, Woodstock
Here's some videos: Turn up your volume VERY loud, I have no idea why the audio is so low. Each video my friend says what cylinder we're on. We said it in the correct order, we clarified which from the manuel. Let me know what you guys think:
http://s36.beta.photobucket.com/user...TL%20CYLINDERS
Thats the album with all the cylinder compression tests.
http://s36.beta.photobucket.com/user...TL%20CYLINDERS
Thats the album with all the cylinder compression tests.
After watching the video I would get a new gauge. The gauge is not supposed to bleed down until you hit the release. It should only go up and then stabilize. It's hard to say if there's an actual engine problem yet. I think on cylinder 4 the engine was cranking over quicker than the rest. Maybe that was one of the first or maybe you put a charger on it.
Do you always get the same results, the same cylinders are always high and the same ones are always low?
I still think chasing compression is the wrong route. If it doesn't misfire at idle but it does misfire under load I would be looking at ignition or fuel system. You can start by swapping coils on the good cylinders to the bad cylinders and see if the miss follows the coil. I don't know how likely it is that you have several bad coil packs though.
How many tanks of gas have been run through this thing since the misfire started? If it's been on the same tank the whole time I would fill it up from a different station and see if the misfire slowly goes away.
Do you always get the same results, the same cylinders are always high and the same ones are always low?
I still think chasing compression is the wrong route. If it doesn't misfire at idle but it does misfire under load I would be looking at ignition or fuel system. You can start by swapping coils on the good cylinders to the bad cylinders and see if the miss follows the coil. I don't know how likely it is that you have several bad coil packs though.
How many tanks of gas have been run through this thing since the misfire started? If it's been on the same tank the whole time I would fill it up from a different station and see if the misfire slowly goes away.
Thread Starter
Ryan's loving his ATLP TL


Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 561
Likes: 2
From: New York, Woodstock
Yeah I got the same exact results per Cylinder. I did the test twice on each. Them I came back to a cylinder, always stayed the same... :S
I have no real lack of push at high RPMs. If I accelerate fast around 2-4K it almost has a slip or something. I doubt it's the clutch. With the mounts I can feel the shutter through the car at idle.
I have no real lack of push at high RPMs. If I accelerate fast around 2-4K it almost has a slip or something. I doubt it's the clutch. With the mounts I can feel the shutter through the car at idle.
Thread Starter
Ryan's loving his ATLP TL


Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 561
Likes: 2
From: New York, Woodstock
So I ended up bringing back the spakplug tester, I am yet to do the test again. Honestly I have no time to do it. So let me describe what happens in more detail. I have roughly.. 93K on the OD, exactly after I added the Pre-Cat delete and engine mounts, thats when I started to notice my slight misfire. Now the "misfire" is just it having a slight "PUTT PUTT" sound in the exhaust note. I can feel physically now the vibrations from the engine mounts, so every time it gives a "PUTT" sound I can feel it. Now it doesn't do it always, sometimes after rides it will not even be noticeable until it idles for a bit.
Performance. So it seems overall GOOD at high RPMs, only clutch slipping around... 4-5K exactly, but once VTEC kicks in it stops slipping almost immediately AT 5K. So I know the top end is from the clutch. But Im curious if it's also the clutch at low low RPMs like between 2-3K, because it gives me a tugging sensation and then goes once it reaches the RPMs I said above. But see... If I accelerate in 1st to 2nd I dont even seem to have the hesitation or tugging? It seems to do it above... 2nd gear, then around 4K in third it slips and so on.
I am just really confused to weather this is an engine issue or a clutch issue...?
So some issues I am replacing regardless: Clutch/flywheel (very notch slips also), Clutch master cylinder (creaks a lot), Clutch case (stripped the bolt on the case thus I have a very minimal leak of Honda MTF, I keep checking check hole and always overflows), Oil pan replace (stripped also the oil bolt, slight leak AS OF 2 weeks)... I am looking into $3500 worth of work it seems.. That's what loans are for... :/
ALL I want is to feel this car without that hesitation, either it be the clutch or the engine. I'm a little clueless... Sorry I ranted, I just wanted to explain in a little more detail what I feel.
I have talked to a mechanic and he is probably replacing the oil pan within the next week. Having him look tomorrow.
Also to clarify, the engine has NO weird sounds or knocks of ANY sort, I had that issue on my 05 TL and it was replaced under warranty... :P
Performance. So it seems overall GOOD at high RPMs, only clutch slipping around... 4-5K exactly, but once VTEC kicks in it stops slipping almost immediately AT 5K. So I know the top end is from the clutch. But Im curious if it's also the clutch at low low RPMs like between 2-3K, because it gives me a tugging sensation and then goes once it reaches the RPMs I said above. But see... If I accelerate in 1st to 2nd I dont even seem to have the hesitation or tugging? It seems to do it above... 2nd gear, then around 4K in third it slips and so on.
I am just really confused to weather this is an engine issue or a clutch issue...?
So some issues I am replacing regardless: Clutch/flywheel (very notch slips also), Clutch master cylinder (creaks a lot), Clutch case (stripped the bolt on the case thus I have a very minimal leak of Honda MTF, I keep checking check hole and always overflows), Oil pan replace (stripped also the oil bolt, slight leak AS OF 2 weeks)... I am looking into $3500 worth of work it seems.. That's what loans are for... :/
ALL I want is to feel this car without that hesitation, either it be the clutch or the engine. I'm a little clueless... Sorry I ranted, I just wanted to explain in a little more detail what I feel.
I have talked to a mechanic and he is probably replacing the oil pan within the next week. Having him look tomorrow.
Also to clarify, the engine has NO weird sounds or knocks of ANY sort, I had that issue on my 05 TL and it was replaced under warranty... :P
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i had random misfires and it was driving me crazy...i replaced my ignition coils and spark plugs and it did not go away...i then took my car in to get my valves adjusted and it now runs like brand new and no more misfires or codes. prior to this i could feel the vibrations of the engine and i had the "putt putt" sound coming out of the exhaust. the other thing i had though was some valve noise before the engine warmed up...now everything is purring like a brand new car again
Thread Starter
Ryan's loving his ATLP TL


Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 561
Likes: 2
From: New York, Woodstock
i had random misfires and it was driving me crazy...i replaced my ignition coils and spark plugs and it did not go away...i then took my car in to get my valves adjusted and it now runs like brand new and no more misfires or codes. prior to this i could feel the vibrations of the engine and i had the "putt putt" sound coming out of the exhaust. the other thing i had though was some valve noise before the engine warmed up...now everything is purring like a brand new car again
Awesome, so I'll try to adjust the valves then and see how it is from there. Thanks.
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