TL/Manual Transmission/3rd gear
#42
Racer
Everyone should read what American Honda found with most of the test manual transmissions that were sent back to be diagnosed. They found only certain synchro's damaged and certain in good standing.
They found 6/10 people are skip shifting. Which is not warrantable and dealers are now told to road test with the customer to see if he is skip shifting. So you all, please be careful, and please DONT SKIP SHIFT! LOL
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/TS/BTS051201.PDF
good luck.
They found 6/10 people are skip shifting. Which is not warrantable and dealers are now told to road test with the customer to see if he is skip shifting. So you all, please be careful, and please DONT SKIP SHIFT! LOL
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/TS/BTS051201.PDF
good luck.
#43
Originally Posted by loud_whispers
Everyone should read what American Honda found with most of the test manual transmissions that were sent back to be diagnosed. They found only certain synchro's damaged and certain in good standing.
They found 6/10 people are skip shifting. Which is not warrantable and dealers are now told to road test with the customer to see if he is skip shifting. So you all, please be careful, and please DONT SKIP SHIFT! LOL
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/TS/BTS051201.PDF
good luck.
They found 6/10 people are skip shifting. Which is not warrantable and dealers are now told to road test with the customer to see if he is skip shifting. So you all, please be careful, and please DONT SKIP SHIFT! LOL
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/TS/BTS051201.PDF
good luck.
Many/most people have reported the problem under 8000 miles on the car, hardly enough time to do any damage no matter how you shift it.
Mine started giving problems under 4000 miles!
I do not know if problem is the right word, after all, it IS a manual transmission...
I never knew one to shift perfectly all the time, every time....
I could see skip shifting causing problems at 80,000 miles or something, but even then, the trans would be quite wimpy to have a problem from skip shifting....
I hate equipment that you have to operate just right or it breaks, that is just a sign the equipment is cheap junk.
Brett
#44
Racer
Originally Posted by Brettg
Sounds like BS to me.
Many/most people have reported the problem under 8000 miles on the car, hardly enough time to do any damage no matter how you shift it.
Mine started giving problems under 4000 miles!
I do not know if problem is the right word, after all, it IS a manual transmission...
I never knew one to shift perfectly all the time, every time....
I could see skip shifting causing problems at 80,000 miles or something, but even then, the trans would be quite wimpy to have a problem from skip shifting....
I hate equipment that you have to operate just right or it breaks, that is just a sign the equipment is cheap junk.
Brett
Many/most people have reported the problem under 8000 miles on the car, hardly enough time to do any damage no matter how you shift it.
Mine started giving problems under 4000 miles!
I do not know if problem is the right word, after all, it IS a manual transmission...
I never knew one to shift perfectly all the time, every time....
I could see skip shifting causing problems at 80,000 miles or something, but even then, the trans would be quite wimpy to have a problem from skip shifting....
I hate equipment that you have to operate just right or it breaks, that is just a sign the equipment is cheap junk.
Brett
You wanted a 6 speed with a close gear ratio, so don't abuse it.
You'd be suprised how much damage skip shifting can inflict.
It's not BS, just don't skip your shifts, that's all they are saying.
They're not saying "oh we're not going to warranty these gear sets any more!"..No they are saying DONT SKIP SHIFT, if you Skip shifts then obviously it's putting alot of abuse on these synchro's.
It should say it in your owners manual about not skipping shifts..1,2,3,4,5,6...in order.
So there.
All i have to say.
#45
The DVD-A Script Guy
Originally Posted by loud_whispers
Everyone should read what American Honda found with most of the test manual transmissions that were sent back to be diagnosed. They found only certain synchro's damaged and certain in good standing.
They found 6/10 people are skip shifting. Which is not warrantable and dealers are now told to road test with the customer to see if he is skip shifting. So you all, please be careful, and please DONT SKIP SHIFT! LOL
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/TS/BTS051201.PDF
good luck.
They found 6/10 people are skip shifting. Which is not warrantable and dealers are now told to road test with the customer to see if he is skip shifting. So you all, please be careful, and please DONT SKIP SHIFT! LOL
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/TS/BTS051201.PDF
good luck.
It makes sense that repeatedly skip shifting would cause the stresses on the synchronizers as said in the document you linked. Skip shifting isn't something I do. I happen to like the closer ratios. In fact given my proximity to the highway and that the majority of my driving is on the highway I probably do less shifts than other people have to per 100 miles driven.
But, it does seem that there are a number of owners observing some sort of issue with 3rd gear in particular. In many cases it seems to appear by about the 5000mi time. It also seems to respond to changing the MTF whether it be with Honda MTF or the GM fluid.
To be fair there are a mix of drivers out there but, if we take people at there word, many of them have had several MTs before (of various brands) and put lots of miles on each with no shifting issues. And, it always seems to be 3rd gear that people bring up. Not 2nd, not 4th but always 3rd. (at least at this BBS).
It isn't so much that it is a "problem" but rather that selecting all of the other gears in the car is perfect except sometimes 3rd. That probably makes it more noticeable but it definitely is noticeable in what can best be described as it "fighting back". The other thing is it isn't predictable and doesn't happen with every shift. It is just often enough to remind you about it. I'm not talking about shifts at high rpms either.
Do you have and thoughts or speculation about it ? You know a lot more about the car than most of us so I'd be interested in what you think may be going on. Even if you "weed" out some of the complaints due to driver error/misuse there are probably quite a few legitimate observations left.
Again, I'm not intending to complain. I love the car. I am just curious if you thought about it and had any ideas or comments.
Thanks,
#46
Originally Posted by loud_whispers
Get a car with a 5-speed trans. then.
You wanted a 6 speed with a close gear ratio, so don't abuse it.
You'd be suprised how much damage skip shifting can inflict.
It's not BS, just don't skip your shifts, that's all they are saying.
They're not saying "oh we're not going to warranty these gear sets any more!"..No they are saying DONT SKIP SHIFT, if you Skip shifts then obviously it's putting alot of abuse on these synchro's.
It should say it in your owners manual about not skipping shifts..1,2,3,4,5,6...in order.
So there.
All i have to say.
You wanted a 6 speed with a close gear ratio, so don't abuse it.
You'd be suprised how much damage skip shifting can inflict.
It's not BS, just don't skip your shifts, that's all they are saying.
They're not saying "oh we're not going to warranty these gear sets any more!"..No they are saying DONT SKIP SHIFT, if you Skip shifts then obviously it's putting alot of abuse on these synchro's.
It should say it in your owners manual about not skipping shifts..1,2,3,4,5,6...in order.
So there.
All i have to say.
I never said that, and I dont.
What I said was it should not ruin a transmission in 8000 miles.
I still say its BS, no one has problems with any gear but 3rd, so what has skip shifting got to do with JUST 3rd gear, at 5000 miles no less???
There is no logic in blaming skip shifting on a 3rd gear only problem.
Or so it seems to me...
Brett
#47
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I really dont feel that 3rd is much of an issue anymore since they put the Honda MTF in. I still get a notch every now and then but it really is much better. Why would anyone skip shift anyway? Im not getting that one?
#48
There are times when it makes sense, say you acclerate strongly in 3rd gear to merge onto the hiway where everyone is doing 65 mph, you take the engine up to say 5000 rpm's and get in lane, then you know you are just doing 65 mph, so why shift to 4th, let out the clutch (4500 rpm?), then push the clutch in and go to 5th, let out the clutch (4000 rpm?), push in the clutch, go to 6th, let out the clutch
(3000 rpm?) instead of just going to 6th?
There are no syncros on 5th or 6th gear, so its not going to hurt anything to go
from any gear into 5th or 6th gear......
Brett
(3000 rpm?) instead of just going to 6th?
There are no syncros on 5th or 6th gear, so its not going to hurt anything to go
from any gear into 5th or 6th gear......
Brett
#51
2005 6mt in PA
I've got about 8500 miles on mine, and have been having the same problem since I got it. I had hoped that it would go away, but it did not.
I've been to the dealer several times. Initially they were dismissive/condescending and attributed it to "operator error." I've been driving only MT's forever (30+ years). We've gotten past that, although it took some lemon law discussions. It's not completely resolved - but here's where it stands now.
The dealer mentioned that the clutch must be pushed firmly to the floor. Obviously that would not the the sole cause of the 3rd gear problem, but just to be cooperative, I moved my seat forward an inch or so, and have gotten in the habit of clutching closer to the tip of my foot. That did actually make a difference - but not much (and the fact that the other gears have NEVER done this indicates some transmission issue).
Next, the dealer replaced the factory fill. I have no idea what they used, but since the service manual strongly suggests Honda MTF, I assume it was that. Again, it seemed a bit better, but still does it sometimes. Strange thing is that I cannot link this problem to anything at all (like when it's cold, hot, quick shift, slow shift, etc).
The dealer said that if the oil change did not help, THEY would order either the GM or Redline MTF and fill with that. The speculation is that the friction modifiers (or lack thereof actually) could help the syncros do their job better. They have that on order and will call me when it's in. I'll post the results following that.
They have said that they would yank the trans if that does not correct the problem. I can't think they'd fix it, but probably swap for another. I don't like the fix in a bottle solution - but I'm not crazy about yanking the trans either.
I've been to the dealer several times. Initially they were dismissive/condescending and attributed it to "operator error." I've been driving only MT's forever (30+ years). We've gotten past that, although it took some lemon law discussions. It's not completely resolved - but here's where it stands now.
The dealer mentioned that the clutch must be pushed firmly to the floor. Obviously that would not the the sole cause of the 3rd gear problem, but just to be cooperative, I moved my seat forward an inch or so, and have gotten in the habit of clutching closer to the tip of my foot. That did actually make a difference - but not much (and the fact that the other gears have NEVER done this indicates some transmission issue).
Next, the dealer replaced the factory fill. I have no idea what they used, but since the service manual strongly suggests Honda MTF, I assume it was that. Again, it seemed a bit better, but still does it sometimes. Strange thing is that I cannot link this problem to anything at all (like when it's cold, hot, quick shift, slow shift, etc).
The dealer said that if the oil change did not help, THEY would order either the GM or Redline MTF and fill with that. The speculation is that the friction modifiers (or lack thereof actually) could help the syncros do their job better. They have that on order and will call me when it's in. I'll post the results following that.
They have said that they would yank the trans if that does not correct the problem. I can't think they'd fix it, but probably swap for another. I don't like the fix in a bottle solution - but I'm not crazy about yanking the trans either.
#52
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Originally Posted by Brettg
There are times when it makes sense, say you acclerate strongly in 3rd gear to merge onto the hiway where everyone is doing 65 mph, you take the engine up to say 5000 rpm's and get in lane, then you know you are just doing 65 mph, so why shift to 4th, let out the clutch (4500 rpm?), then push the clutch in and go to 5th, let out the clutch (4000 rpm?), push in the clutch, go to 6th, let out the clutch
(3000 rpm?) instead of just going to 6th?
There are no syncros on 5th or 6th gear, so its not going to hurt anything to go
from any gear into 5th or 6th gear......
Brett
(3000 rpm?) instead of just going to 6th?
There are no syncros on 5th or 6th gear, so its not going to hurt anything to go
from any gear into 5th or 6th gear......
Brett
And BTW, my bad gear is 2nd, until it warms up after about 30 minutes, it sometimes totally refuses to engage on a cold tranny (like the first or second shift into 2nd). I can count on one hand when I had a bad shift into 3rd, so likely not the same problem.
#54
3rd Gear
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Manual transmission 3rd gear - synchro problem found
Originally Posted by klkitts
My '05 Manual Transmission TL has always had a slight "notch" in third gear. In other words, often when shifting into 3rd gear it does not quite go into gear. You have to push or take it out of gear and put it back in. I talked to the Acura dealer today - and he seemed to be very honest and forthright about the situation. He said that 7 other customers had also reported the problem to him - and that with all of them it was always 3rd gear. He also said that Acura had not published any official service bulletin on the matter. He said that for customers that reported the problem, at the current time, they are just replacing the transmission fluid and that seemed to fix the problem.
Has anyone else experienced this problem?
Thanks,
Kevin
Has anyone else experienced this problem?
Thanks,
Kevin
Manual Transmission TL owners:
I had posted a response to Kevin's original thread regarding a "notchy" 3rd gear because I experienced the same. After reading a lot of responses about changing the transmission fluid to Honda MTF or GM friction modified stuff, I took my TL to the dealer who I bought it from. The service manager was very professional and after keeping the car for 24 hours they have clearly identified an issue with the synchros. Although I was not a big fan of the service guys working on the transmission, this was clearly the best bet instead of living with the issue. They have ordered parts and will replace the "damaged" or "defective" synchros & other components, as required. I hope to get a better shifting TL back from the dealership. I will keep you guys informed about the outcome. I am praying as well that I hope another problem does not get introduced, as this one gets fixed. I had 9000 miles on my 2005 TL.
#56
3rd Gear
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Originally Posted by Juiced_Acura_Kidd
Same problem here...I have an 05 bought in April with 11,000. Not what I expect from Acura. The problem makes me grind my gears sometimes.
#57
The DVD-A Script Guy
Originally Posted by Enjoy6MT
Did you take it to the dealer? Is there anyone out there with this 3rd gear problem that had the synchros replaced? Most responses I have seen say that change of MT fluid fixed the issue. I am just curious to see if something else got introduced when they put everything together. Do you think it is worth requesting additional warranty from this point forward? (1 yr old TL, 9000 miles).
#58
What a waste of time!
It seems like almost ALL the manual trans cars have the 'problem', and the GM
stuff seems to be the fix.
I guess you could replace the syncros every 3000 miles or so, but the dealer is going to get tired of that....
Brett
It seems like almost ALL the manual trans cars have the 'problem', and the GM
stuff seems to be the fix.
I guess you could replace the syncros every 3000 miles or so, but the dealer is going to get tired of that....
Brett
#59
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i actually have problems going from 1st to 2nd. Sometimes it doesn't engage all the way. After talking to my Acura dealership, all the tech manager said was, "it's the transmission fluid. You'll have to let the car warm up 1st."
Anyone know what i can do about this?
I don't want to have to sit there and let my car warm up all the time, b/c in another thread, i read that it's not helping the car in any way. (too lazy to look for the thread right now)
Anyone know what i can do about this?
I don't want to have to sit there and let my car warm up all the time, b/c in another thread, i read that it's not helping the car in any way. (too lazy to look for the thread right now)
#60
Originally Posted by Laxplaya11385
i actually have problems going from 1st to 2nd. Sometimes it doesn't engage all the way. After talking to my Acura dealership, all the tech manager said was, "it's the transmission fluid. You'll have to let the car warm up 1st."
Anyone know what i can do about this?
I don't want to have to sit there and let my car warm up all the time, b/c in another thread, i read that it's not helping the car in any way. (too lazy to look for the thread right now)
Anyone know what i can do about this?
I don't want to have to sit there and let my car warm up all the time, b/c in another thread, i read that it's not helping the car in any way. (too lazy to look for the thread right now)
Brett
#61
Originally Posted by Adobeman
I do seem to remember another owner getting the synchos replaced and having the symptom reappear later. Anyone else remember seeing that ?
#62
Three Wheelin'
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Originally Posted by Brettg
Try the GM mtf-fm stuff, it will eliminate your problem.
Brett
Brett
#63
Originally Posted by Laxplaya11385
i was actually considering it, but the dealership said it would void warranty (which i already knew...haha), and a friend of mine actually used it in his car, and he said it was fine but as the car got older (over 80,000 miles) he said it actually caused the box to be sticky, so i want to try to stay away from it.
how does your friend know the fluid caused the gear box to get "sticky" with age, and not just the age and wear of the transmission irregarldless of what fluid was in it????
#64
Originally Posted by Laxplaya11385
i was actually considering it, but the dealership said it would void warranty (which i already knew...haha), and a friend of mine actually used it in his car, and he said it was fine but as the car got older (over 80,000 miles) he said it actually caused the box to be sticky, so i want to try to stay away from it.
You could also mix 50/50% oem fluid and the GM stuff.
There is no way they can tell if you run the GM stuff, it looks exactly like the oem fluid, and is the same viscosity.
I changed mine to the GM stuff, ran it for 3000 miles, then changed it again and it showed no additinal wear metal, and did not look dirty, so there is no excessive wear from using the GM stuff.
I plan on changing it again after say 10,000 miles and checking it for wear metal.
I think the S2000 guys have been using if for some time with great results.
Brett
#65
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Originally Posted by stevel
find a more reasonable dealership. my dealers district rep from Acura authorized the fluid change under warranty, paid for by Acura warranty. as documented as such, their decision to change the fluid cannot void warranty. so just work on your dealer a little.
how does your friend know the fluid caused the gear box to get "sticky" with age, and not just the age and wear of the transmission irregarldless of what fluid was in it????
how does your friend know the fluid caused the gear box to get "sticky" with age, and not just the age and wear of the transmission irregarldless of what fluid was in it????
yeah, im' gonna go to the other acura dealership and see if they'll do anything about it. As for my friend. He eventually swapped out the GM Syncromesh and put OEM fluid in the car, and he said it fixed the "sticky" problem. Call it BS, but I have nothing to base it on, so i believe him haha.
#66
LeftFoot, RightHand Happy
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Originally Posted by Laxplaya11385
i actually have problems going from 1st to 2nd. Sometimes it doesn't engage all the way. After talking to my Acura dealership, all the tech manager said was, "it's the transmission fluid. You'll have to let the car warm up 1st."
Anyone know what i can do about this?
I don't want to have to sit there and let my car warm up all the time, b/c in another thread, i read that it's not helping the car in any way. (too lazy to look for the thread right now)
Anyone know what i can do about this?
I don't want to have to sit there and let my car warm up all the time, b/c in another thread, i read that it's not helping the car in any way. (too lazy to look for the thread right now)
I just took my TL in for its first service, and had them do a (complimentary) MT fluid change, to see if would help. I didn't have my hopes up, and it nope, didn't help. I am petrified of putting in GMSM, for warranty issues.
BTW, when it is warmed up after about 30-45 minutes of suburban driving, it finally becomes very smooth.
#67
I just cant understand why anyone would worry about changing the fluid to the gm stuff. its not like acura could tell its not the OEM fluid, or would deny any warenty claims because you ran a different brand lube...
They wont deny you if you run something other then the OEM engine oil, brake fluid, coolant, and I have not heard of a manual trans failing, just shifting problems from impropper syncro operation (not wear).
We have also heard someone ran it for 80,000 miles, then put the OEM stuff back in and the transmission still worked....
Brett
They wont deny you if you run something other then the OEM engine oil, brake fluid, coolant, and I have not heard of a manual trans failing, just shifting problems from impropper syncro operation (not wear).
We have also heard someone ran it for 80,000 miles, then put the OEM stuff back in and the transmission still worked....
Brett
#68
My 05 6spd is just over 600 miles. I too have some issue with the 2nd gear. It refuses to go in sometimes. I have to skip it and go to the 3rd gear instead. Cold weather definitely makes the matter worse.
#69
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Originally Posted by Enjoy6MT
Did you take it to the dealer? Is there anyone out there with this 3rd gear problem that had the synchros replaced? Most responses I have seen say that change of MT fluid fixed the issue. I am just curious to see if something else got introduced when they put everything together. Do you think it is worth requesting additional warranty from this point forward? (1 yr old TL, 9000 miles).
#70
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BG Syncro Shift 2 fluid
After 3,200 miles and 2 months of owning my TL, I finally decided to take the car to the dealer and have them replace the transmission fluid. Like some of you that posted in this thread, I have the "2nd" gear issue - hard to shift to 2nd (notchy) and sometimes it grinds. This happens the frist 15 to 30 minutes of driving. After that, shifting is smooth. I took the car to the same dealer the creator of this thread mentioned. I did NOT have to explain myself in detail, they knew exactly what I was talking about. They replaced the transmission fluid with BG Syncro Shift 2 fluid. Well, the good news is it was FREE and it was done in an hour. The bad news is, I don't think it helped! Yes, I still cringe driving/shifting the first 15 to 30 minutes. Is it time to switch to GM Synchromesh stuff??? I thought the BG stuff is similar to GM....I mean they are both synthetic stuff, right?
#71
The GM stuff is semi synthetic.
It all has to do with the friction modifiers, the BG stuff is likely completely different stuff. The friction modified part is what changes how the syncro's work.
I suppose something very slippery wont allow the syncros to spin the gear up
to speed, it just slips....
We have 8600 miles on our car now, with the Gm stuff in for the last 5000 miles, and it still shifts nice, hot or cold.
Brett
It all has to do with the friction modifiers, the BG stuff is likely completely different stuff. The friction modified part is what changes how the syncro's work.
I suppose something very slippery wont allow the syncros to spin the gear up
to speed, it just slips....
We have 8600 miles on our car now, with the Gm stuff in for the last 5000 miles, and it still shifts nice, hot or cold.
Brett
#72
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Originally Posted by Brettg
The GM stuff is semi synthetic.
It all has to do with the friction modifiers, the BG stuff is likely completely different stuff. The friction modified part is what changes how the syncro's work.
I suppose something very slippery wont allow the syncros to spin the gear up
to speed, it just slips....
We have 8600 miles on our car now, with the Gm stuff in for the last 5000 miles, and it still shifts nice, hot or cold.
Brett
It all has to do with the friction modifiers, the BG stuff is likely completely different stuff. The friction modified part is what changes how the syncro's work.
I suppose something very slippery wont allow the syncros to spin the gear up
to speed, it just slips....
We have 8600 miles on our car now, with the Gm stuff in for the last 5000 miles, and it still shifts nice, hot or cold.
Brett
What is interesting is at first I thought the cold weather has a lot with it. But our weather has been unseasonably mild the past weeks and this 2nd gear issue never fails to appear during start ups.
Do you think I need to completely flush the BG stuff out before filling it with the GM stuff? Or is it ok to mix/match a bit?
Thanks!
#73
Senior Moderator
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Originally Posted by Juiced_Acura_Kidd
I just got the car back from the dealer today. It was there for 2 days. They test drove it a total of 17 miles in two days and couldn't find what I was talking about. After the first day I printed out this entire thread (40 pages) and personally handed it to the service center at my dealership so they could educate them selves on my problem. And still no luck...they couldn't detect the problem but I know its there. They wouldn't even change the MTF bc they said that Acura was unaware of this problem and they couldn't authorize any service for my car. If I wanted it changed....i would have to pay in full. So they gave me this number to call (1800 - 4 A ACURA) to make a claim for future reference. They told me that no body has mentioned anything about the 3rd gear problem. If you have a Manual TL with 3rd gear problem...call this number and make a claim so they can know that it is an issue. Now after losing my car for 2 days...I get it back still with the problem. Any ideas guys??
I can not believe they didnt at least do a fluid change, that is such bullshit..
My dealer told me they never heard of it either but at least they believed me.
#74
Cautious Optimism
I've had a problem with 3rd gear since I got the car. I have an earlier post in this thread concerning several trips to the dealer without any progress. A couple weeks ago the dealer told me they'd order one of the synthetic oils for the trans (either BG or Redline). Three days ago they drained the 2nd factory fill and replaced it with Redline MT-90 (similar to Redline MTL, but a little heavier).
I'm happy to say that the 3rd gear problem has not happened once since they installed the Redline. I am hoping that this will finally resolve the problem.
According to Redline, many of the MT oils are too slippery, so the synchros do not equalize (come up to speed) as quickly. Redline (and presumably the others) have friction modifiers which increase the coefficient of friction - which helps the synchros.
Note the the problem I had was specifically with 3rd gear, never any of the others. It was not related to temperature at all. Hot, cold, it did not matter. The only thing I noticed was that it seemed to happen more often if I was in traffic and shifting to third at lower rpms (under 3000).
I don't know about the other "synthetic" oils - but most currently on the market are actually still petroleum-based (since many years ago the courts ruled that "synthetic" was a marketing term). When that ruling came down, most companies switched back to the more highly refined conventional oil. These are called Group III oils.
True synthetics are PAO oils (Group IV) and Ester oils (Group V). Ester is currently considered the "best" but both are excellent. The Redline oil uses the Ester basestock.
If you want to learn all sorts of good stuff about oils, you can find it at the following link. It's in the context of motorcycles - but the info is good for any engine.
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
This is some Redline propaganda on their MT oils. MTL is what they recommend for Honda/Acura, but my dealer used MT-90, which I think will be fine (and has cured the problem COMPLETELY) - at least so far !!!
http://www.redlineoil.com/whitePaper/13.pdf
I'm happy to say that the 3rd gear problem has not happened once since they installed the Redline. I am hoping that this will finally resolve the problem.
According to Redline, many of the MT oils are too slippery, so the synchros do not equalize (come up to speed) as quickly. Redline (and presumably the others) have friction modifiers which increase the coefficient of friction - which helps the synchros.
Note the the problem I had was specifically with 3rd gear, never any of the others. It was not related to temperature at all. Hot, cold, it did not matter. The only thing I noticed was that it seemed to happen more often if I was in traffic and shifting to third at lower rpms (under 3000).
I don't know about the other "synthetic" oils - but most currently on the market are actually still petroleum-based (since many years ago the courts ruled that "synthetic" was a marketing term). When that ruling came down, most companies switched back to the more highly refined conventional oil. These are called Group III oils.
True synthetics are PAO oils (Group IV) and Ester oils (Group V). Ester is currently considered the "best" but both are excellent. The Redline oil uses the Ester basestock.
If you want to learn all sorts of good stuff about oils, you can find it at the following link. It's in the context of motorcycles - but the info is good for any engine.
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html
This is some Redline propaganda on their MT oils. MTL is what they recommend for Honda/Acura, but my dealer used MT-90, which I think will be fine (and has cured the problem COMPLETELY) - at least so far !!!
http://www.redlineoil.com/whitePaper/13.pdf
#75
Originally Posted by vingengi
Thanks Brettg! I guess there is still HOPE
What is interesting is at first I thought the cold weather has a lot with it. But our weather has been unseasonably mild the past weeks and this 2nd gear issue never fails to appear during start ups.
Do you think I need to completely flush the BG stuff out before filling it with the GM stuff? Or is it ok to mix/match a bit?
Thanks!
What is interesting is at first I thought the cold weather has a lot with it. But our weather has been unseasonably mild the past weeks and this 2nd gear issue never fails to appear during start ups.
Do you think I need to completely flush the BG stuff out before filling it with the GM stuff? Or is it ok to mix/match a bit?
Thanks!
You should drain it after a drive when the metal is in suspension.
Take a close look at the lube that comes out, so you can compare it in the future.
Red line 90 weight gear lube is a LOT thicker than the oem or GM fluid.
Thicker is better up to a point, more protection, better shock load protection, the downside is power loss (and mpg loss) of moving gears through real thick lube.
90 weight is REAL thick in the winter! It also can not penetrate into tight spaces, which might get lube starved.
I would have tried the mobil 1 75w 90 or 75w140 gear lube, its 75 weight cold,
better then 90 weight!
Brett
#76
Originally Posted by Brettg
No, you just do it like an oil change, remove drain plug, let it pour out, then fill with the new stuff.
You should drain it after a drive when the metal is in suspension.
Take a close look at the lube that comes out, so you can compare it in the future.
Red line 90 weight gear lube is a LOT thicker than the oem or GM fluid.
Thicker is better up to a point, more protection, better shock load protection, the downside is power loss (and mpg loss) of moving gears through real thick lube.
90 weight is REAL thick in the winter! It also can not penetrate into tight spaces, which might get lube starved.
I would have tried the mobil 1 75w 90 or 75w140 gear lube, its 75 weight cold,
better then 90 weight!
Brett
You should drain it after a drive when the metal is in suspension.
Take a close look at the lube that comes out, so you can compare it in the future.
Red line 90 weight gear lube is a LOT thicker than the oem or GM fluid.
Thicker is better up to a point, more protection, better shock load protection, the downside is power loss (and mpg loss) of moving gears through real thick lube.
90 weight is REAL thick in the winter! It also can not penetrate into tight spaces, which might get lube starved.
I would have tried the mobil 1 75w 90 or 75w140 gear lube, its 75 weight cold,
better then 90 weight!
Brett
#78
What am I supposed to read about oils and viscosities?
The OEM fluid is like a 10 or 20 weight oil, 90 weight gear lube is 90 weight, and very thick. In the cold, its like glue.
Just because an Acura dealer puts it in does not make it right, or good, although your warenty should be ok.
I guess we will see how things hold up with it.
Brett
The OEM fluid is like a 10 or 20 weight oil, 90 weight gear lube is 90 weight, and very thick. In the cold, its like glue.
Just because an Acura dealer puts it in does not make it right, or good, although your warenty should be ok.
I guess we will see how things hold up with it.
Brett
#79
There are 2 DIFFERENT SAE standards here. One for ENGINES, another for GEARS. The 10w30 figure we see are for engines, a GEAR oil OF THE SAME VISCOSITY is 70W80.
Honda/Acura does not seem to specify the weight - only that we should use Honda MTF (but in a pinch, we can use 10W30 engine oil). The aftermarket oil producers (Redline, Amsoil, Mobil 1, etc) indicate that the Acuras factory GEAR oil is 70W80 (hence the 10W30 "in a pinch").
The Redline MT-90 is SLIGHTLY heavier - but still a multi-vis oil at only 75W90 - not that much heaver than the factory fill 70W80.
The following is a link to a chart that shows the differences between engine and gear oils. That site also has some good info on oils.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html
Honda/Acura does not seem to specify the weight - only that we should use Honda MTF (but in a pinch, we can use 10W30 engine oil). The aftermarket oil producers (Redline, Amsoil, Mobil 1, etc) indicate that the Acuras factory GEAR oil is 70W80 (hence the 10W30 "in a pinch").
The Redline MT-90 is SLIGHTLY heavier - but still a multi-vis oil at only 75W90 - not that much heaver than the factory fill 70W80.
The following is a link to a chart that shows the differences between engine and gear oils. That site also has some good info on oils.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html