thoefke

well man I was chill at the start but everyone acts like I am retarded for posting a question. Sorry to blame the brand and generalize but not much else to blame right now lol, I know ford isnt causing the clicking in my honda engine. everyone acts like I am an idiot, you talk about blinker fluid like I am some dumb ass, yet Acura cant even figure out what is wrong with my car, but yeah must be my stupidity preventing them from finding the issue too.

90foxnotch

Sorry if you stated this already but was the noise there before you took it in? If not they better not charge to diagnose the new issue, hopefully they're just overlooking something.

Joecop67

thoefke

No I get it man, I was generalizing pretty bad. I am just frustrated with the car right now and was trying to get help and end up get bashed on here so of course that just makes me more frustrated lol. I understand the bashing from you all was because I was bashing Acura. Sorry if I generalized it has just been out of frustration for the car. I apologize if ive been an ass to anyone and went off I just really want to get this figured out so I can drive the car normally again. And glad you were just joking on the blinker fluid, thought you really thought I was that ignorant, I was just like come on man. Seriously I am pretty chill about it now, just want it fixed, and no worries I havent been charged anything for them to look at her right now.

Joecop67

thoefke

Well thanks for the thanks. I get Acura has good cars and mine is just being a bitch right now. Like I said I am sure once I get this ironed out ill love the car, just felt like I havent been able to catch a brake on her lol. And to clarify I did realize you werent saying Ford caused my noise, happened to just pick Ford at random, wasnt relating it to your previous comments. For reals though sorry if I was a dick to anyone, please just realize I am not an idiot with cars, but I am also by no means an expert mechanic and wont claim to be one. I honestly would've loved to do the timing belt and everything on my own, its just I dont have the time right now. I also know the dealership has the nick name stealership for their reputation lol, I just really like the fact I get a loaner car to cruise in while they work on my car and honestly they have been super nice about this whole thing and are backing their work. But hey if you all know a good shop in Colorado in the centennial area by all means please recommend one, Id rather get that info than hear how stupid I am for going to a dealer lol (no attitude from me in this last sentence lol, sounds like there could be so wanted to clarify)

thoefke

well bad news. Looks like the engine is screwed. Its actually a cylinder wall that got damaged at some point. I went down to the shop and they showed me the damage in there. Looks like I have to buy a new block or get something used to toss in her.

TheSauceBoss

LS1 swap?

frankjnjr

Hey thoelke, I Feel Your Pain! Earlier today, you said the noise has been isolated to cylinder #5, and stops when the coil is disconnected. I think, this is the first time I've read that the noise had been isolated. In your initial video, a strange noise, somewhat difficult to detect, over and above the valve train clatter, ( clatter seems excessive to me) is evident. To me, this type of noise diagnosis is mechanics 101! My question to you is, was that specific noise evident, prior to, or immediately after the 2K Dealer maintenance repair? Regardless of weather it was there before, or after, it seems to me, the ONUS, would be and should be on the Dealer, to have detected it, brought it to your attention, and offered a diagnosis, and method of correction! Was the cylinder damage due to the piston "slapping" the cylinder wall? Before I would accept responsibility for the cost to correct this issue, I would recommend you gather all the facts, in such a way, that you can present them, to the Service Writer, Dealer Service Manager, Service and parts Director, and Dealer Principal! It appears to me, that the Dealer may have culpability here. After all, you solicited the Dealer's expertise, and high cost, specifically to prevent a situation like this. In spite of the RHETORIC, exhibited by many on this thread, I thank you for keeping the forum updated on your progress.

thoefke

you know this is the part where its difficult to say. I honestly am usually playing music when I drive and then shut the car off before I get out and hear her running idle. I feel like when I left from the TB service I would have noticed something then but cant recall any noise. It was after I got my mounts replaced that I then started hearing the noise as I was trying to be conscious of what she was sounding like to see if the mounts actually got rid of my noise from other posts ive made on here, which it did. I then noticed the ticking, at first chalked it up to valve noise, but upon research realized if it was or wasnt valves it was way too loud of a tick to let it just go. Thats when I came back on here to post about it and get opinions. Now im sitting where I am with needing the engine. I cant 100% say if there may have been a minnor tick at the time of the TB, they also acknowledged that had they heard that during a service it would have been brought up (who knows the truth to that)

frankjnjr

In my opinion, if the engine exhibited a piston slap, when you delivered your car to the Dealer for the TB service, the Tech. involved, likely, would have noticed it. Did you, by chance, run it (Extremely) hard, after the service, to test it out? Unless you took it beyond red line, there should have been no issue. When you examined the cylinder wall, did you notice any unusual marks on the top of the piston? A valve hitting a piston can certainly result in a piston slap. The Dealer in question, has a reputation to uphold, so I think it's unlikely they would intentionally mislead you, of course it's possible. I just find it peculiar, that any engine, having operated well, for 100K, to suddenly develop a piston slap, overnight! Rather than replacing the block, one option might be to replace the engine, with a low mileage used engine. Such an engine, with less than 100k, sells in my area for around $800.00. Once an engine is sourced, the new parts from the bad engine could be transferred to the used unit. I know your really soured on this car, and believe me, i understand.. Since it's value as is, is very low, the least financially draining way out, seems to be, fix it, and sell it, or drive it till the wheels fall off. On the plus side, should you decide to sell it, considering all the maintenance performed, I think it would find a ready market.

74f100

That really sucks. I've got 2 J series with at or over 200k, and both run quietly.

If you were in my area, I would be happy to help with an engine swap. It would cost a 12 pk though,,,,yuengling.

thoefke

lmao id easily buy you a 24 pack man. I am going to do some shopping around because obviously the dealer wanted some extraordinary numbers to rebuild it lol. They were cool though, did $400 of labor on it to diagnose this for me and didnt charge anything. I do have one question for you all, since I might be looking at a new engine, is there anything stopping me from getting the 3.5 from a Type S if I find one?

truonghthe

wiring harness and ECU and your transmission belt housing won't bolt on to the J35A8 block. Your best bet just look into a use J32 from the 04-06 model and I highly suggest you get the TB/WP replace while the "new" used motor still out with new tensioner and rollers, cam seals.

This also would be a great time to get the oil pump assembly reseal before you put the new engine in your TL, if you are extra meticulous like me then replace those motor mounts and LCA bushings, sway bar bushing and end link while your mechanic has the engine out.

thoefke

fack lol. Im really debating trading her in somewhere I was in hopes I could at least get a bigger engine if I was going to have to pay to get this done lol also worry what might brake next if I do put this money in lmao. So as ive said before (and not knocking Acura again lol) none of my cars before have done this to me so I am totally new to the whole engine swap scene. What should be a fair price for if I were to get it (A) Rebuilt with a new or used block, OR (B) get a used engine dropped right in? what would you all say are advantages and disadvantages of either way? Thanks for the help on this guys. at this point I am totally lost lol, like I said not totally ignorant to cars but no master mechanic either.

truonghthe

its actually cheaper to swap the engine than rebuilt your existing one, after part and labor, you are looking at approx $1500-$1700. Indi shop ofcourse.

thoefke

ok thats not too bad. I will probably end up keeping her if that will be the numbers I am looking at. Feel like ill take a much bigger loss by trading her vs that. Is there a section in these forums I can ask around for a recommended shop near me? Also any good resources to source an engine?

truonghthe

car-parts.com, where you live? if you living in the east coast contact H&A Recycling locate in socal. A good used engine can be bought aroun $500.

thoefke

yeah I am going to keep her for sure at this point so I appreciate the help, unfortunately I am mid west in Aurora Colorado.

thoefke

Just wanted to update, we were able to find a 45,000 mile engine (hopefully not BS lol), that with the labor for the swap will be $2800. I guess he will be swapping all of my timing belt stuff, water pump, tensioner, etc, is ordering a kit incase he isnt happy with the looks of the kit I have on now, and spark plugs since we know they are new, doing a compression test on the "new" engine before dropping her in, replacing valve cover gaskets, camshaft seal, front crank seal and rear crank seal.

txcharvel

That doesn't seem like a bad deal for the engine and complete swap.

thoefke

yeah my buddy who recommended the guy said he is a little more costly but super OCD about doing the work, guy doing it even said he might take 2-3 days cause he will be taking his time on her. Plus if the 45,000 miles on it are true thats still super low for the new engine!

90foxnotch

That is a huge bummer since you've just spent all this money on a car you recently bought, but this thing should now bring you years of service with no issues.

thoefke

yeah it sucks but its the way she goes lol. Be a bigger loss trading it in and I would hate for it to get masked somehow by a shady dealer and someone else get this car and have to go down this same road.

truonghthe

I wouldn't count much on the 45,000k miles engine being 45,000 miles UNLESS you are there see they pull it out from a car that has 45k miles, you can glance through it by open the intake manifold and valve cover and you will see how the previous owner take care. Make sure you get the oil pump assembly reseal while the engine out.

Compression test and leak down will tell you about its internal health.

frankjnjr

Been following this thread, from the start. I'm thinking, you made the right decision, at least, from an economic standpoint. You now have a Technician you trust, and hopefully, will have a serviceable car, for many miles to come. Cheers

thoefke

Yeah the main thing is I know where this car sits at this point then, whereas getting another used car could open me another whole can of worms of issues. Just hope the engine shows in good shape! I dont trust the 45,000 mile claim that much but it honestly was priced right where a 90,000 and a 120,000 mile options were so I dont feel like who has it is trying to get extra cash off it. Guess they might just want it gone though, either way just hope she is ok when we get it.

CountryNoob

You mentioned cylinder 5. Maybe something like this?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I wish you luck on this, the car will be solid again.

thoefke

Yeah like that but worse I'd say.

thoefke

just wanted to give an update. got the car dropped off, engine looks great, should be done next week sometime! Also funny shit I am borrowing my dads civic and just my luck it overheats the first day I use it on my way to work. Was just the thermostat thankfully but damn some shit luck lmao.

thoefke

Wanted to do one more update for everyone. Got the new engine in and have driven about 1000 miles. All has been well since I got her back. Everything feels so much smoother now, glad I dropped the cash to keep her going lol.

truonghthe

glad it work out for you.

90foxnotch

Glad to hear and hopefully it brings you many more miles of service.

Tony Howard

Had a 91 Maxima that had one problem after another! Later on my wife had a Nissan Altima that was great. The best car we EVER owned was a 2003 Honda Pilot. Had it for 14 years with 275,000 miles and it NEVER, EVER, broke down once. Other than normal wear and tear stuff, brakes,belt, and tires we replaced an oxygen sensor. Have read stories of people who had nightmares with it. For the majority though, Honda, Nissan, Toyota make great automobiles. There's a reason why warranties run out around 60,000 miles man.