thoefke

Hey me AGAIN, I really cannot win with my damn TL its just been problem after problem, sadly the worst car ive owned id say. Now I am getting a ticking noise at idle. tried search but most videos are deleted so cant compare noise and ones with working vids were different. weird thing is for the first 20 seconds or so after a cold start there is no noise. once it gets running a few seconds then it starts ticking. the tick does follow RPM up to about 1700 but then its just gone. Feels fine accelerating. Ive had timing belt. TB tensioner, pullies, serp belt and tensioner, spark plugs, valve adjustment, water pump, and engines mounts replaced recently so you would think she would be puring like a kitten not ticking like a clock lol. Also oil is fine right where it should be and fresh. sitting at 100,000 miles today. Video linked below

cp328

Sounds exactly like my car ive got 05 114k n the noise started around 109k .. ive been told bad its a bad tensioner but getting that checked out soon ... id love to hear if anyone has an answer for this problem ... i love my car n cant stand the noise

MyGuti

yeah id say bad tensioner, that's quite the noise. I would get that checked asap! I remember hearing the same sound, just not as pronounced, before I did the 105k service on my base TL. Take it back to the shop you get your components installed, they should inspect and fix if it was done recently

txcharvel

I say bad timing belt tensioner as well. Did you do the timing belt or did you have it done by someone else? Even if you did it yourself and know that it's a new tensioner, there are lots of stories posted online about bad tensioners.

Not only does it sound like the timing belt tensioner, the fact that the noise disappears at higher RPM pretty much confirms it.

BCH TL 2013

My TL is making a nearly identical sound, I had the TB done and it started after, so I think I've got a bad tensioner, but it's been like this for 40K miles, so I'll probably replace the tensioner and see if it disappears. Otherwise I think it's piston slap and will just ride out the engine.

losiglow

iTrader: (1)

Ack. J-series V6 valve noise FTL. I've never had a tensioner go bad. But I had a similar noise start to slowly surface over time with my old 3G that I fixed with a valve adjustment. But if this started soon after the timing belt job, I'd definitely take it back and explain the situation.

thoefke

great... seriously just FML, hate this fucking piece of shit car. Will never buy shoddy ass Acura shit again. what a joke of a car lol. Thanks for the help guys. Had a 89 maxima with 220,000 never one damn issue, get this thing with 85,000 and everything is shit already.

TheSauceBoss

Some engineers like to say "There's no such thing as a 0% failure rate, just an acceptable failure rate".

Sorry that you picked up a car that's had a rough life, but it gives you experience for next time when you're looking for a car and you need to take a detailed look at everything before buying. And honestly, I'd bank that everyone here at some point in their life has gotten a car that appears great at first only to have a ton of underlying issues. Not much you can do but learn from it. Good luck in the future.

thoefke

thats the problem is it was great when I got it a year ago and now everything is shit between 85,000 and 100,000. seems like shitty manufacturing considering the mounts and tensioner are a common problem on this car. Never had any of these problems with parts on any of my 4 cars most with at least 1.5x the miles on them when i got rid of them, all purchased around the same 85-90 thousand mile mark.

NBP04TL4ME

I think you will find the 3G TL is a fairly solid car, but you don't know how the car was treated or maintained prior to you buying it. FWIW - I've been driving a 3G TL for 14 years and have had no major issues. My first one I bought new and my current one was purchased 8 years ago as a CPO. $0.02

thoefke

Yeah so far I hate it lol, worst car ive owned. That said yes I dont know how it was treated but on the flip side my carfax shows the one previous owner had every maintenance done at the dealership basically on the dot for each milestone so it has a very clean record on it. Thats why it seemed like such a great buy but now I am about 99.999999% I will never buy Honda/Acura again as it seems they arent actually reliable cars. 2 friends on Toyotas and a lexus with 250,000 and 320,000 miles on them neither have ever had a mount bad or a tensioner on their timing belt fail. like how did acura make these so crappy? seems like they just want to make money on their used cars at 100,000.

MyGuti

if Honda's and Acura's weren't reliable cars, this forum would not exist.
Good luck with your minor maintenance issue...

thoefke

lol not sure you know what reliable means. if they were reliable this forum would not exist... as in no one would have problems to post about. And lol its not minor when you just dropped 2 grand for the dealer to do the timing belt, valves, and spark plugs but then looks like they didnt do shit. It goes right with what im saying about acura being shit even the dealer wont do the full job and cuts corners jeopardizing their brands rep. What a shit brand. But yeah maybe im wrong, they are just a great car even though every single 3rd gen has these same issues and mine is an 08... plenty of time to have ironed this crap out but they didnt bother. look how their trans have so many problems even in the new ones. they dont care about reliability at all anymore, just cheap crap that will brake to make more money outside warranty, looks like they have succeeded based on the forums here.

MyGuti

your on crack man, sell the car if your so convinced its a crappy car.
I have had my own issues, but nothing outside what is expected of a 10+ year old car. It sucks that you took it to a dealer and paid that much. Should have sourced the parts yourself and taken it to a indy shop that's reputable.
the only plus side is that you should be able to take the car back to the dealer and have them diagnose the problem.....
2 grand for timing belt, valves and spark plugs = -_- you got ripped the fuck off.
The dealer probably cut corners because they want to save money, not because they don't give a shit about the TL or because its a crappy car like you say.
You said maybe your wrong, which you are. And not every 3rd gen has the same issues as yours. Your issues were routine maintainence items that seem to have improperly installed or not replaced at all.
What new transmission issues are you referring too?
There's a reason why many members on here have bought not one Acura vehicle but several (hint: its not because they've been brainwashed by Acura).
Good luck with your car man, but honestly you clearly don't appreciate what this vehicle offers or are so blinded by your financial costs that you don't see it.
Either way, do pick up a 10+ year old lexus and report back

74f100

I've owned quite a few Nissans, none ever lasted as well as my Honda's. I actually switched from Nissan to Honda. The Acura is my 5th one. Like you, I got a 12 year old Acura (mine had 190k when I bought it), so for the last year after I bought it, I've rebuilt everything that tends to fail on them. Age is the key, not mileage. Most 4 cyl Hondas will go well beyond 200k (many well beyond 300k) before needing anything but regular maint. My 2 v6 cars, need serious going over about 175 to 200. Every Nissan I had, was ready for junk yard at 200k. My last was a 2005 Sentra, I hated that car with a passion. I now only buy Honda for my driver cars. I've had 2 Fit's, and one Insight (hybrid). My current is a 2015 Fit, bought new, little over 60k miles.

I had that ticking on the Accord, turned out to be the tensioner. I replaced it with the water pump and timing belt when I had the engine out to rebuild the transmission. Really easy to get to when the engine is out,,,,not so much when installed.

On the Acura, I'm finishing the last thing now. AC systems (compressors) won't last beyond 200k. So, I have the whole system out now. Replaced compressor, condenser, drier and evap valve. Total price, little over $350 in parts and materials. About 6 to 8 hours total time. After this is done, my wife will easily get another 100k from the car with no problems. When you buy a used car, you never really know what was done to them prior. More often than not, the problems are from someone cutting corners at some point. The ac system on this Acura was full of some red oil. That wasn't from Acura, that's someone that either didn't know what they were doing, or just trying to get the system working quickly, to collect $400 for AC service. Had I not pulled the whole system out and cleaned and replaced everything, it wouldn't last a year. Doing the job right, it'll last many years. There are many great mechanics out there,,,,but there are also quite a few that cut corners. Or people that aren't willing to pay the price to do what needs done.

Just like you're last post,,,,you paid $2000 for a timing belt,,,and they didn't replace the tensioner and water pump???? I bought all 3 at the Honda dealer for my Accord for $500. Took about 30 min to replace all (engine was on a stand in my garage). I can't understand why anyone would replace a timing belt, and not a tensioner. IIRC all J-series engines need that done, and since all 3 parts are right on the front,,,,you do them all together. I can't remember how they interconnect, but I'm almost positive the tensioner has to be loosened to replace the belt. I did it 5 years ago on the Accord,,,,and that's been right about 50k miles.

74f100

If I was after pure reliability, it wouldn't be with any of the J series though. But I really do like these things. LOL I've just learned to work on them so well,,,,,the major things, aren't all that major. I just had to replace one of the control arm bushings on the Accord this week. Took about 2 hours total, and a $7 part (but 2 weeks for rockauto to send me the right bushing). 3 bolts and bottom ball joint, control arm out in 30 min. 1 hour of thinking bad things getting old bushing out. 5 min pressing new bushing in. 30 min control arm back in. Easy job. But taking to a shop, probably would have been a $500 job.

nfnsquared

OP, how soon after the TB service did this start (miles and time)? Why don't you just take it back to the dealer and have them look at it?

That's one hella loud ticking noise. I gotta go with bad TB tensioner.

I have over 290K on my TL. Coming up on my 3rd TB change. This engine has been absolutely rock solid for me. Original owner, still the original clutch, 04 6MT.

MyGuti

STILL ORIGINAL CLUTCH, for fucks sake that's impressive!

WDPanda

car's not the problem. You're the one that dropped 2gs for work that's a couple hundred at the most. Don't blame the car for your mistakes. Learn to maintain cars.

thoefke

let me list the full service I had done and then you can judge. Timing belt, water pump, pullies, serp belt, serp tensioner, (obviously they skipped the TB tensioner), collant flush, atf fluid change, oil change, PS fluid change, Brake fluid change, Valve adjustment, Spark plugs, tire rotation and balance, alignment, car wash, and a loaner vehicle for the 2 days they had the car. But yeah I got ripped off for sure on this work order. I do my own maintenance when I have the time to do so. When I need my car to work on call 7 days a week its super hard to just have it down for 2 days because I want to work on it my self. Trust me ive done plenty of my own work on cars, ball joints, suspension, heater core, window replacements, brake jobs, this list goes on. As said there is a balance we all have to keep with life and work, sometimes I just want the work done for me on my car. I cant see how anyone here is blaming me for not liking acura when the dealer obviously took shortcuts. THE DEALER! the literal rep for their brand screwed me on work. Tell me where you would buy a brand new Acura from again, yes the dealer. Who knows what shady shit happens to their new inventory that just gets brushed off as acceptable too. Sorry if I have hate right now for Acura its just as ive said every car ive bought has been purchased around this age and millage and ive seen those cars have none of the minor annoyances of this car that is supposed to have superior parts compared to my Maxima, Le Saber, and Avalon, yet they all seem to be failing where those cars did not. Maybe once I get this ironed out ill love the car again. I would also consider selling if I wouldn't take a loss and it made more financial sense for me to do so right now. Maybe in another year or two. I have an appointment for them to look at it monday. Didnt mean to hurt anyone's feels about their brand loyalties, just hard to be in a good mood when its one thing after another recently.

Pair of TLs

I realize a lot of peeps hate their dealerships for various reasons, but our's, Acura of Brookfield, gets stellar ratings. We've been going there since the 2G TLs arrived. Even though I've been spinning wrenches and busting knuckles for longer than you've been on this planet, work/life balance means having to pay someone for stuff that I could do myself. If a PROFESSIONAL does the job the onus is on them to do it right. As soon as the ticking started, you should have taken your car back and had it corrected. By THEM.

Instead, you play the victim. FML, indeed--there's a ticking sound coming from my car engine, so auto dealerships and car brands are out to get me so I'm hating in all directions! What's your REAL problem??
I doubt anybody on this forum had their feelings hurt over brand loyalty just because, well, your problem. What are all these "one thing after another" and minor annoyance problems you're trying to iron out? Want help or wanna whine about 'em, whatever they are? All you had was routine maintenance done...at the most expensive place you could have picked.

Having owned WELL over 100 cars in my lifetime (I stopped counting 15 years ago, and Ive had at LEAST a dozen since then) and taken several into the high 200K-range, I'll tell you I have yet to see ANY car go 200K "trouble-free" miles. And I can regale you with horror stories of ANY popular brand. Maybe a "Reliable Car Forum" would be more to your liking.

thoefke

jesus christ you fan boys are thick on here. youd think I just raped your mom cause I said acura is shit. grow the fuck up. I came on here because I didnt think it would be something involving the timing belt since i just got it done you fucking prick. Hense why I posted a video asking what the fuck you all think is wrong. When everyone agreed its the tensioner, I think I have the right to say FML to that fact I got gyped on my service and now have to go back. seriously all of you ego fucks can go fuck your high and mighty "acura is god" selves fucking losers.just close the thread since its solved.

Pair of TLs

Cry louder. Nancy.

truonghthe

lol OP trigger much? Toyota and Nissan are reliable right?

Have you ever trying to replaced a Camry struts mounts 4 of them cost around $600 JUST for the mounts and they do fail around 100k miles. The suspension is a well know weakness of Toyota/ Lexus product. How about a front set of control arm on a 08 LS460 and brake actuator? both ticket item can run you $11k, or the infamous ML amp love to burn out? Or the GS350 which every single one of them guarantee burn out OEM HID bulb? on the 2000s Toyota/Lexus model the infamous code P0440, P0443, P0446? VSV switch or the whole charcoal canister gone to shit?

Inifiniti? that is the biggest jokes ever when it become 10 years old used car. Cam position sensors shit and they will shit again will leave you stranded, power seat motor doesn't works so people cant adjust their seat, valve cover and spark plugs seal fail and Nissan force you to buy the entire valve cover to replace. Bad valve spring cause ticking during cold start up ( famous in the 91-03 Maxima) Oh and the infamous no 3rd gear (3rd gear busted) on the G35 coupe MT. Power window motor love to shit to bed. Push button start failed.... I had seen a 2015 Q50 leaving the owner no choices but to call the tow truck.

Out of the 3 Japanese brand Nissan/Infiniti is the least reliable when come to electronic reliability, as you can see why they so cheap on the used car market. You can find a legit clean G37 with less than 100k miles for less than $17k. Good luck finding that with a TL or IS350, GS350 for that price with similar mileage and condition.


Moral of the stories is that every car manufacture has their own issues its up to the buyer to do research on the issues and decide whether its some thing they can live with. If you buy a used car may be it wouldn't so bad to spend a $160 or whatever cost at the Nissan/Infiniti, Toyota/Lexus and Honda/Acura for a PPI. But let me guess its a rip off to you right? after all you are the experts just like those guys on G35 FB group that talk about straight pipe and stance but has no clue what the difference in left handed thread vs right handed.

If you have a problem with a particular dealer and call a brand a POS then I feeling sorry for your ass, I had a serious issues with one of the local Lexus dealer here but that doesn't mean I will call my Lexus purchase is a biggest POS. Matter fact the next car on the list might be another Lexus.

Well i do hope you will find this purchase as a lesson "live and learn" and apply for your next vehicle purchase. No need to call people names because 40% of the guys here either owned their TL since new or when they still in CPO status (like me) back then the car still cost around $27000 for lowest price. Now these 3G TL flooded the used car market and easily acquire around $4k-$7k even for a TL-S.

thoefke

the car is a shit can. rattles in every spot you can imagine, mirror motors suck, mirror light fucked up, blue tooth had to be replaced, two windows motors are going to need replaced soon, motor mounts failed, transmissions shifts like shit even after pressure switches and fluid changes, had to mole skin the window weather seal so it wont scratch tint, replaced hood lifts cause they were failing already, glove box slams open instead of sliding open, window wipers suck in general. so they took a good engine and wrapped it in shit. we can all have an opinion on what we think of Acura guys. sorry mine doesnt align directly with yours. I guess im just a fucking moron because of that. The fact is this is my least luxurious vehicle when its supposed to be the most luxurious of what ive owned.

Pair of TLs

You said it! Sell it on Tuesday!

Joecop67

nfnsquared

OP, I find it hard to believe that the dealership didn't recommend replacing the tensioner.

My guess is that you told them no....

If I'm wrong, then I'd go back to the dealership and Acura Client services and press the issue. That's just idiotic not to recommend replacing the tensioner. It's $100 part, no extra labor.....

TheSauceBoss

Yeah i'd say this thread is over if it's just going to turn into a brand loyalty argument as a result of OP not knowing how to research a TB tensioner

thoefke

you all are officially retarded. As ive said, I paid for them to do the Timing belt, TB tensioner, Water pump, pulleys, coolant flush, atf change, brake fluid flush, oil change, PS fluid change, spark plugs, and valve adjustment. I have dont research and seen you should get the tensioner replaced hence WHY I FUCKING PAID FOR THEM TO DO IT YOU FUCKING IDIOT! ALSO HENCE WHY I DIDNT THINK THAT WOULD BE THE CAUSE OF THIS NOISE BECAUSE IT WAS SUPPOSED TO HAVE BEEN REPLACED HENCE WHY I MADE THIS FUCKING THREAD. fucking swear yall are dense as fuck lol

TheSauceBoss

As a last resort I would have a different shop change the tensioner. Perhaps the first time around it was improperly done or simply not done at all and they still charged you for it. But what do I know, I'm retarded.

90foxnotch

You need to relax and have the dealer check it out since you just spent all that money so it should be Their problem not yours. Report back once they check it out. I understand cars are very frustrating but theres a lot of good guys on here no need for the language man. Good luck I hope they figure out what they did wrong.

thoefke

well everyone is acting like im retarded and told them to skip the tensioner or some shit which I DID NOT DO! and guess what it isnt the tensioner, its not the valves. something in cylinder 5 is making the noise, when disconnecting that plug the noise stops, so you all can stop acting like im an idiot who told them to skip the tensioner.

TheSauceBoss

90foxnotch

Could be something with the valve adjustment, it's still their issue if it was fine before all that work.

Joecop67

thoefke

yeah they had re adjusted the valves first thing and still got the noise

thoefke

so you are just cool with everyone treating you like a piece of shit, doesnt make you mad at all? yeah right lol. Yall just come on and bash me like I asked them to do this to my car lol of course I am going to get pissed when people try to blame me for this.

b15

Joecop67