Is there anything I need to do after replacing rotors and pads?

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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 05:30 PM
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**WhItE-aNgEl**'s Avatar
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Is there anything I need to do after replacing rotors and pads?

Hi is there anything I need to do after replacing my rotors and pads? I'm getting this rubbing noise and it's getting annoying and I feel like it doesn't brake very well. There's such a huge gap from the brake to the braking point. Do I need to bleed the line? I read something about releasing the air out of the lines. Please let me know what I should do thanks.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 05:47 PM
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Wow dude...not to be a jerk but honestly, if you weren't sure you needed to bleed the brake system after I'm not sure you should have been doing this install yourself.

Ok, if all you did was swap pads and the rotor. Did you use brake cleaner to take the film they put on the rotor to keep it from rusting in transit OFF? IMPORTANT. Otherwise you're braking with a slick surface on the rotor that is now coating your pad. You can likely do this on the car, but will take longer. Clean it off, then bed the brakes in properly (google it) and make sure your system is air free.

To answer your question, what you've done today should not have introduced any new air.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 06:48 PM
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I diddnt do it myself my mechanic did it. They did clean the rotors with gasoline. I didn't know they needed to bleed the line since the calipers weren't replaced. In this case my bbk. And they did not remove the air out the system. So I just need to bleed the lines and remove the air out of the system.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 07:17 PM
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I don't understand why you would have air in the system, is my point. Unless he didn't know how to push the caliper back in to put the new pads in and he opened the nipple. Doesn't sound normal to me.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 08:00 PM
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A mechanic did your brakes and there's still a problem with it? I say bring it back and have him check it out. On second thought, you may want to find another mechanic.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
I don't understand why you would have air in the system, is my point. Unless he didn't know how to push the caliper back in to put the new pads in and he opened the nipple. Doesn't sound normal to me.
This.

You should not have air in the lines from a pad & rotor change and the brake normally would not need to be bled after that maint.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 08:22 PM
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Im taking it to Acura on Monday. The car brakes fine, basically what bothers me is the rubbing. And that there's a huge gap to the braking point. But I slammed on the brakes and it stopped right away from 60-0
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 08:53 PM
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Cleaning with gasoline would have me wondering. There is this stuff in a can called Brake Cleaner.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 09:12 PM
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What's bothering me is the gap to the braking point . The rubbing you can't even hear it unless you actually try.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 10:33 PM
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what do you mean by "gap to the braking point"?
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 10:37 PM
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From: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Originally Posted by pohljm
what do you mean by "gap to the braking point"?

I think he's saying that there is too much pedal travel before the brakes engaged.
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 11:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Bearcat94
I think he's saying that there is too much pedal travel before the brakes engaged.
Exactly thank you. Im not thinking straight
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 12:46 AM
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Did you do a line swap too? Like stainless lines or something? Otherwise, it could be your brake booster, air in lines, material on pads/rotor.

Is it worse than before you had these things changed?
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 01:50 AM
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Did you "bed" them in?

I don't think you want to bed in new rotors with new pads. For some reason I think I did mine separately.

Last edited by A SiQ TL; Jan 8, 2012 at 01:57 AM.
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
Did you do a line swap too? Like stainless lines or something? Otherwise, it could be your brake booster, air in lines, material on pads/rotor.

Is it worse than before you had these things changed?
No it's a lot better than before. Before my pads were already cutting into my rotors. No I did not line swap whatever that is. I just simply replaced the rotors and pads. They swapped out the old rotors and pads and put in the new drilled rotors and pads, can they be adjusted to eliminate the brake travel to the braking point ? There's no possible way you can fcuk up. It's not like they're stuck and not turning now that's bad, it's just the lil rubbing you cant even hear with the windows up and can barely hear it with the windows down and the brake travel. Why do I need to bleed the line if my calipers werent replaced? In my case the bbk.
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by A SiQ TL
Did you "bed" them in?

I don't think you want to bed in new rotors with new pads. For some reason I think I did mine separately.
No I didn't bed them in. If by that you mean driving from 20-0 and braking hard and than 40-0 as braking hard. Etc, I did test them out from 60-0 tho
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 10:51 AM
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Yes, there is an actual "BEDDING" process that should be followed. I think it's fine to do it with new pads on new rotors.

Pedal travel is directly linked to pressing pedal, presses hydraulic fluid, presses pads. If there is air, travel will be more before pads bite. Does the pedal feel the same now as it was before? Might just be the way the car brakes...my TL brakes lower (pedal wise) than my fiancee's 08 accord. It's just how it is.

About your annoying rub, check your dust cover for your brakes. My guess is that they might have bent it slightly to where it's making contact with the rotor. Jack up your car on the side or tire you hear the noise from and turn the rim by hand and listen for it.

Constant metal on metal rubbing noises are easy to diagnose and usually require a ratchet or just your hand to bend something back into place.
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by **WhItE-aNgEl**
Why do I need to bleed the line if my calipers werent replaced? In my case the bbk.
When having your brakes serviced, professionally or DIY, it makes sense to remove the old fluid by flushing out with new fluid. Brake fluid should be changed about every 2 years. It makes alot of sense to do while your already servicing the brakes, and the wheels are off, ect. Also, its a very inexpensive procedure.

This whole problem, and the way you describe the work seems odd. I would be skeptical of a mechanic that returned a car after basic brake service with any issue.

Last edited by powerflow; Jan 8, 2012 at 12:43 PM.
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 01:46 PM
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The small rubbing is coming from the front driver side. How do I remove the air out of the system?
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by **WhItE-aNgEl**
How do I remove the air out of the system?
Originally Posted by **WhItE-aNgEl**
So I just need to bleed the lines and remove the air out of the system.
When doing a brake job, its common practice to bleed the brakes, and flush out the old fluid. The air is removed by bleeding the brake system. Over time brake fluid absorbs moisture, degrades, gets contaminated, ect - that's why there are interval fluid recommendations.

Last edited by powerflow; Jan 8, 2012 at 02:23 PM.
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 02:47 PM
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so troubleshoot the front driver side wheel...I bet the dust cover is touching.

Google bleeding brakes/bedding brakes and/or take back to the shop, friend, this is turning into a "who's on first" hand holding session...
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Old Jan 8, 2012 | 03:08 PM
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this is how i do my install:

switch rotors + pads....bleed the system with new brake fluid then bed them in....

bleeding the system:
with a turkey baster, take the old fluid out from the reservoir, fill new fluid in. Now place a little 2x4 wooden block under the brake pedal (very very important) and have someone pump until you see new fluid at the caliper. Once you see new fluid pump and hold and tighten the screw.....start from driver front and go clockwise....

PS: if you have one of those automatic bleeders, use em and them ship em to me, i need to bleed mah brakes

bedding the pads in: go to a little secluded area....ride the brakes for a little bit....then do couple quick braking from 50mph to 5mph (dont let the car stop)....do this 4-5 times....

your golden
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Old Jan 14, 2012 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by swoosh
this is how i do my install:

switch rotors + pads....bleed the system with new brake fluid then bed them in....

bleeding the system:
with a turkey baster, take the old fluid out from the reservoir, fill new fluid in. Now place a little 2x4 wooden block under the brake pedal (very very important) and have someone pump until you see new fluid at the caliper. Once you see new fluid pump and hold and tighten the screw.....start from driver front and go clockwise....

PS: if you have one of those automatic bleeders, use em and them ship em to me, i need to bleed mah brakes

bedding the pads in: go to a little secluded area....ride the brakes for a little bit....then do couple quick braking from 50mph to 5mph (dont let the car stop)....do this 4-5 times....

your golden

Agreed. Find the Brake Bleeding DIY in the garage and do this. It is cheap and see if that fixes it. If not, then take it back to the mechanic.
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