H23Accord

iTrader: (8)

So FINALLY got the blower on. New IK22 plugs, new battery. The first week I had no issues other than the initial surging everyone talks about. Week 2, I have no more surging and the car is stock smooth. Only negative side effect I am having is when I start it, it isn't catching in its normal immediate fashion as it did pre blower. Rather then say taking 1 second to catch, it will sometimes take 4 seconds, sometimes longer, and sometimes I have to stop and try again before it might catch. I have noticed that this is typically when the engine is cold such as first starting it in the morning or when it has sat long enough that the temp gauge is back at the bottom. Once the car is warm I don't seem to have this issue.

My immediate thought is problem is unrelated to the blower install and might just have picked up a bad battery. Anyone else with this issue?

Turbocoop

iTrader: (3)

best way to rule out the battery is to try to start it while its attached to another cars battery with jumper cables... Other than that--- Im not a expert on superchargers but it might have something to do with the compression difference... I mean, the starters gotta turn the belt and the screws in the charger now along with everything else it did before.... ya know? Someone else with a supercharger should be able to help you more than me

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

If it cranks over normally but just doesn't catch, I'd say it's in the fuel trim when cold. Don't know what program is used, or if it's able to be altered, but I'd check with the guys that are running a S/C on a Honda product to see setting and/or fuel pressure requirements.

H23Accord

iTrader: (8)

Yea and that is what it feels like. As if it doesn't have enough fuel to catch...but I'm not ruling out the possiblity of other things considering the many times I have had things happen and end up being totally unrelated to whatever I recently installed.

I'll throw this in the S/C thread and see if I get any bites as well.

thanks guys.

bmeyer

iTrader: (3)

First thing to check, remove the piggy-back ECU that you have (whether that be the ACM, F/IC or MS3) and try to start it. Does it start better? If so, make sure that all of your solder connections are good. In the case of the F/IC or MS3, make sure that your fuel trims are OK at 0kpa. The MS3 has additional trims for startup that you'll want to check.

If it starts the same, then you may have some excessive drag in the S/C. Has it been serviced recently? How many miles are on it?

Did you change injectors at all, or are they stock?

We need some more info about your setup in order to narrow it down anymore.

H23Accord

iTrader: (8)

I'm using the ACM. I haven't checked it. The work was done at Acura.

I am not familiar with the term "drag" you mentioned. Could you explain please?

It has been a while since I actually picked up the S/C, but I believe it had 40k maybe? The oil was changed before it was installed on my car so its brand new oil.

Stock injectors.

bmeyer

iTrader: (3)

Ugh. It's no surprise that you're having an issue with the ACM installed. DEFINITELY your first step should be to unplug the ACM. Also, make sure that both the stock MAP and knock sensor wires can be disconnected when you're testing. It's possible that the ACM is feeding the MAP sensor wacky readings and telling it to either dump way more fuel in, or pull a bunch out.

By "drag", I mean that it's possible that the blower isn't spinning as freely as it should after a servicing. This could be due to any number of issues such as the oil in the blower itself is past its prime, bad bearings, bad gears, out of alignment, etc.

Do you know if the stock fuel pressure regulator was "crushed" as per Comptech's instructions? That's another possibility, that the guys that installed the system f'd up your FPR. You'll know more about that though once you unplug the ACM and just try starting your engine.

This should go without saying, but when you start your car without the ACM, DO NOT GO INTO BOOST. You will lean out your engine and likely break either your pistons or your rings. ONLY start the car and see if the startup condition has improved.

bmeyer

iTrader: (3)

One other clarification... was it just in week 2+ that you noticed the car being hard to start? That could be your stock ECU adjusting to wacky values being put out by the ACM; trying to compensate back to a stoic 14.7:1 AFR. If that was the case, try unplugging your battery for 10+ minutes, then starting your car, letting it sit until it's up to temp and then leaving it sit more while it goes through the stock idle learn procedure. That might be 10+ minutes after it's up to temp.

Once that's done, turn the car off (this is with the ACM installed) and then turn it back on. You may even want to leave it sit overnight to cool off if it's a cold start condition issue that you're having.

An even easier way to tell if your stock ECU is adjusting your fuel trims excessively is to plug in an OBD-II reader that is capable of giving real-time data from the ECU. You'll want to check both the short and long term fuel trims. If one or the other is -10 or more, then you'll need to look into an alternative solution to the ACM.

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

sub'd

H23Accord

iTrader: (8)

Understandable as it is a general "piggy back" unit but strange that no one else has this problem with it. I am not ruling it out though.

Ah I thought that was what you meant by "drag" but the details helped clear it up for me. The S/C wasn't serviced as I didn't feel it needed it with such early mileage. The oil was simply replaced and unit installed.

The guy who installed it at Acura installed a few S/C on the TLs including another 1 or 2 who are actually on the forums here. He and I talked about the FPR and even though I didn't see him crush it, I would like to believe he did and thus can only base this on strong assumption.

Yes thank you for the reminder on no ACM=no boosting.

This was actually my initial thinking in all this and thus was giving it time work out its kinks. But I never noticed these same reactions in any S/C thread so figured I would post up. will try this battery reset first as it will be the easiest to perform. Thank you for the assistance. I will update with status once I perform the reset.

H23Accord

iTrader: (8)

So while replacing the interior bulbs with new bulbs I blew a fuse. In the interior fuse panel down by the foot rest on the driver side, I pulled out the blown fuse in spot 6. I noticed the fuse in spot 7 said "backup". I thought it was for the backup lights and moved it to the spot 6 to test my installation after I was done. Once installing the "backup" fuse back in spot 7, I noticed my clock reset. Well it seems that "backup" maybe meant the backup memory spot whenever the battery is dead. Also when that fuse was removed my remote did not work.
I think it reset something maybe in the ecu because now my car starts normal again. So I accidentally fixed my delayed start problem.

Thanks for help guys!

bigg_86

iTrader: (1)

im having problems with long cranking as well, it starts right away without the fic, but with the fic it takes longer to start. it started happening after i tried running different firmwares. i think im on hex107 now. and if run 110 it starts right away but then i have engine misfires around 3-4k rpms when i go wot. im gonna try pulling that fuse out and see if it makes any difference but i doubt it.

H23Accord

iTrader: (8)

So I ended up having new 310cc injectors and Hondata ECU installed. Car runs awesome with gains from every angle...except I still have the starting issue!! It seems it doesn't matter if the engine is hot or not. So now that we know it isn't the ACM causing my problem, what's the next item it could be? The only thing left i can think of is bad spark plugs or improperly crushed FPR.