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When you replace the timing belt and water pump, you have to unbolt two cast aluminum brackets. One that connects to the side engine mount and another that side over the water pump with small "fins" that fit underneath the timing belt covers.
The two holes that the bolts go through from the top bracket (50620-SDB-A00, I believe) into the bottom bracket over the water pump are stripped and engine is a bit more wobbly than usual when shifting (especially 1st to 2nd).
The bottom bracket (whose part number I have yet to confirm) is the one that needs replacing, which would require me to dig into the engine and remove the timing belt cover (not fun).
I'm thinking of getting a tap and tapping the two holes and then replacing the bolts. Does anyone have experience tapping cast aluminum or have you faced a similar issue? Am I nuts for not just replacing the part or paying a local shop to do it and trying to tap the holes?
Are you referring to the two holes in the bottom right picture? Someone must have really over-torqued those bolts!! Really don't think you'd run into issues tapping those holes. Not sure you have any other options...
Yup, those holes. They're totally stripped and I can spin the bolts with my finger. I don't want to have to replace that whole piece of aluminum. Great picture, BTW, very helpful.
Racers sometimes Heli-coil aluminum holes *before* they fail - I have done it myself - its considered permanent - but don't know if you would have proper access without removal of the part in question.
I was looking into Heli-coil and it seems like a great solution, but I've had trouble finding anyone who has any experience with it. I think I could do it without removing the part, which would require removing the timing belt covers - and I've I'm going through all that trouble, I'll buy the part for 40 bucks and be done with it.
Know anyone who has experience using Heli-coils that I could get some input from?
Rather than mess around replacing the part or trying to rethread the holes, I think the cheapest and easiest solution is to drill through the mount and put longer bolts through the holes. I'll put a washer and locking nut on the bolt and be done with it.
This was my thought exactly but not sure if it would create a bigger problem if the came loose due to vibration even with the locking nuts. Mine broke this morning.
This was my thought exactly but not sure if it would create a bigger problem if the came loose due to vibration even with the locking nuts. Mine broke this morning.
The bottom of the aluminum piece is rounded where your thru-bolts would attach to the nut (see attached image). That rounded shape will create problems for a secure bolt. Dirtyspitshine may no longer be active on this forum so no luck trying to figure out what he did.
I would probably just replace the part. If you don't have an impact for the crankshaft bolt or much experience removing the timing covers, you could try to heli-coil (see poster #17 in the link mentioned above).
The bottom of the aluminum piece is rounded where your thru-bolts would attach to the nut (see attached image). That rounded shape will create problems for a secure bolt. Dirtyspitshine may no longer be active on this forum so no luck trying to figure out what he did.
I would probably just replace the part. If you don't have an impact for the crankshaft bolt or much experience removing the timing covers, you could try to heli-coil (see poster #17 in the link mentioned above).
Hey! Wow. Old thread now. I ended up drilling it through, cleaning up carefully, and dropping two bolts through with a washer, and 2 stacked nuts. They held for 5 years until I had to replace the timing belt again and then I replaced the part.
