so my steering wheels shakes when i brake..... shakes more the faster im going. im thinking it might be the rotor? does anyone know why this is happening?

 

Sounds like a warped rotor to me.

 

Maybe you just need a tire/wheel alignment?

 

^ you would only need that if it vibrated at upper speeds no matter braking or acceleration.

When only braking, more than likely it's a warped rotor on the brakes. You will also notice a pulsing feeling at lower speeds when approaching a redlight slowly. The remedy is getting the rotors cut (which I don't recommend) or replacing them with some better ones.

I went with Racing Brake Slotted Rotors and love them. NO warping after 40K on them and they have amazing bite when braking.

 

^^ Agreed csmeance; I inferred that the above bolded text implied brake-free driving.

 

yeah thats what i was thinking

readjusted my ride hieght a month ago and had it re algined.

yeah i think im going to buy some slotted rotors and new pads.

thanks for the help guys!

 

my Acura Tl 04 does that to when i had to stop suddenly from a higher rate of speed its just the stock rotors and pads cant take that kind of abuse. for an example your braking from 100 to 50 fast you car wants to keep moving therefore while your braking its gonna cause alot of vibration. I agree about the drilled and slotted rotors are amazing biting but you go through pads quicker. what i always say it pays to play!

 

You must've let your pads get too low before changing and ended up warping your rotors. Most problems are averted with regular maintenance, I know it's important to me for my 06 TL with brembos. If I let the pads get too low, I'd have big repair bills fixing or replacing the brembo calipers so stay proactive! If you are do the parts will break infrequently.

 

The TL's non-Brembo rotors are junk. They warp with the slightest heat. And they don't shed heat very well either. Think of getting off the highway and going from ~80mph to 0 at the end of the ramp. You come to a stop and have to wait for a taffic light to change. Most people stand on the brakes pretty hard to stay stopped. THAT's what warps rotors because they just got heated up and your pads are applying pressure to 1/4 of the rotor. I try to shift to neutral at a light and get off the brakes. If thats not possble, I stop short and let the car creep forward with light pressure on the brakes. Even with my new RacingBrake rotors. The RB rotors haven't shown any signs of warpage in probably 30k miles. You're lucky to get 30k out of stock brakes without having to resurface. Resurfacing stock rotors is just making to problem worse as the metal is now thinner and weaker. It may be better at fist, but it won't last. Be nice to your brakes whatever brand you have.

Oh, and to the OP, it really sounds like warped rotors to me, too. DON'T waste money on cheap rotors from the parts stores. Cheap Chinese metal. Buy a good brand once and you won't have problems for a long time.

 

warped rotors

 

+1.

 

Thanks guys. i already got some rotora slotted and drilled rotors and ceramic brake pads. gonna install tomorrow. the shaking has gotten alot worse in the past week.

 

I learned one thing with time because I used to own a accord before

If there is a vibration it is the balancing of tire it is not related to the alignment. Alignment jow straight the car will go

 

Can't type anymore

**Alignment is how straight the car will go**

 

Dang my car is doing the same thing. So aggravating. But I kinda figured it was a warped rotor. The husband says I'm a little rough on the brakes. But so is he! Lol

 

¡SON LOS ROTORES!

 

LMAO! ^^^ DOES ANYONE RECOMMEND A good SET! power slot??? or something else in mind...I believe mine JUST started to do this 2 days ago...

 

I don't have any brake info, but check out our Tampa Meet that we had under the Regions section. Good to see another Tampa member!

 

OH WOW! There is actually TAMPA meets??? COOL! what section? and were do I intro myself...all I been doing is postr whoring.... LOL! SORRY...back on topic...ROTORS???

 

I don't know if you can PM yet, but there is a Regions section at the top of the Acurazine page (to the right of where you select Tl), once there you scroll down to find Southeast! Here is a link to the recent and I believe First Tl Tampa Meet.

https://acurazine.com/forums/southeast-318/how-many-tl-owners-tampa-tampa-clearwater-st-pete-az-meet-6-13-10-a-775935/

It was fun, and we hope to have more turn out at the next meet!

Op- Sorry, not trying to thread jack. I am also interested in Rotors, and which to buy that have the best performance, without warping.

 

yes i know this is old. So is may car.

I have been getting a lot of steering wheel shake for several months. And the pads dont have that many miles on them and the rotors were new too.
My first impression was, I got some cheap rotors and they are warped. OR maybe the pads are getting too hot and causing the rotor to warp.

Well, before I spent any money, I removed both front brake pads and inspected and sanded with 80 grit the pads and nothing looked odd.
I sanded the passenger side rotor and it didnt look bad either.
Then I removed the drivers rotor and inspected it, and on the back side, the rotor had some Black soot or possibly the pad had left some material on the rotor.
When I sanded the drivers rotor, that black stuff came off and it left a small mess on the garage floor. That's how caked on that black soot was.
I have no idea what it was.
So I proceeded to change out the little metal hardware pieces that the brake pads slide on, and I greased them all. ( I did not change them out when I originally changed the brake pads)
Then I bled both the front brakes again. And the drivers side brake fluid was much darker than the passenger side.
This is the 2nd time I ever bled the brakes, and I thought maybe the first time I did not get the drivers side bled out very well.
But I ran a good half a bottle of Dot3 through the front drivers side alone.
I put it all back together and it brakes 98% smoother! It's soooo much better. no shaking!
Its hard to believe that black soot did not come off the rotor until I sanded it with 80 grit paper. And I didnt have to sand it very long. I did it by hand.
Analysis:
Don't automatically assume your brake rotors are warped. You may have black gunk caked up on a rotor .
Make sure you install new hardware when you installed new pads or else the pads may not slide back and forth easily, and it may cause the pad to sit too firmly against the rotor and build up HEAT.
Lastly, the brake caliper can get stuck if your brake fluid is old. Good brake fluid helps the caliper to expand and contract as it should. If the fluid is old, it may not allow the caliper to retract and therefore cause too much pressure on the pads and thereby putting pressure on the rotor, and again building up HEAT and possibly leaving part of your brake pad on the rotor.. (through melting).
But I am not exactly sure why or what that black soot was, and moreover, why didnt it come off by using my brakes , but it was causing some Shaking in my steering wheel.
So glad it's gone. if it comes back, then I am getting rid of these brake pads. They are the O'Reilly Ceramic pads. Not their cheap ones. But at this point, I do not know if the Pads are junk, or if old hardware was the problem, or if the drivers side brake line needed to be bled, OR a combination of all of it! The hardware was sort of rusty-grimy-dirty. I am contemplating doing the rear the same way, but all is well at this "juncture".