pohljm

All in all it worked out pretty smooth! Came out from work at 2 to head to a jobsite and car will not turn over. fully charged battery no sound from starter no dimming of lights upon key turn. Tow to garage and starter replaced by 5! $300 lighter I am back in my car! 06 with 75K miles I would have expected this part to have lasted a bit longer

Other peoples starters lasting longer?

guitarplayer16

iTrader: (8)

Mine died last year, a week after I bought the car.

Had it replaced for free basically (well, it costed a couple hundred but previous owner reimbursed)

Majofo

whose in your avie GP? :jailbaitimsurerofl:

Anyways.. starter went around ~100k, stranded the wife in a mall parking lot.. I revived it for ~10k miles. I finally replaced it for ~$80. It takes about an hour to replace it. It's fairly easy, just that damn lower bolt that holds in the battery tray.

ggesq

iTrader: (1)

Mine died exactly 1 year and two days ago- about 90k miles.

combat mediC

iTrader: (1)

The one of my covrvette died after the new motor was put in, changed it in an autozone parking lot lol
It would only start if you banged on it w/ a hammer

Majofo

That worked for a few weeks when mine started to go out. Couldn't fit a hammer to smash it but my breaker bar did the trick. I eventually had to pull it out and remove the armature from the case. Cleaned it up and cleared the coil armature gaps. It worked well for a few months.. got a little touchy and then started down the same path as before. That's when my cheap ass decided to spend the $80..

oarichard

iTrader: (3)

Mine died @ ~95,xxx miles.

It's normal.

pohljm

I dunno where you got a starter for the TL for $80 they are more like $200 with the core exchange! but its back on the road! woot woot

Majofo

AAP.. w/ LLT using coupon and I kept the core. I also bought my driveshafts from them for $80/ea with free s&h on orders over $75.

rkan121

welp mine just died @ 84 k TODAY. Where exactely is the starter located....below the battery????

Bearcat94

It's to the left of the battery (when you're looking at the engine) and a bit lower. Just past the two major coolant hoses. Just follow the starter lead on the battery cable.


Somebody do a good DIY on this and I'll save it in the Garage.

SurfingScotty

Anyone completed a DIY, yet? I'm looking to fix mine this weekend (died at 74,000 in Disneyland parking structure).

Where can I find a new starter for only $80-$200? Seems like my 1st gen 3.2TL was about $600 new.

Also, what exactly is a breaker bar and how does it work???

SurfingScotty

Never mind about the breaker bar. I didn't know people were using a long socket wrench or pipe to hit the starter.

Anyone have a part number for the starter assy?

Bearcat94

http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/...s=&view=normal

31200-RDA-A01 STARTER MOTOR ASSY. (MHG028) (MITSUBISHI) = $437 dealer retail.

31200-RDA-A01RM STARTER (RMD) CORE ID M000T15971ZC (MITSUBISHI) = $372 dealer retail.


Hit up user "Majofo" about a DIY. I thought he said he had one but hadn't posted it yet.

Majofo

I've been so busy.. but I'll try to post it tonight. Paypal accepted.. or donation to the Azine Holiday Drive.

Bearcat94

Bearcat94

Why can't I thank your useful post?







NM.

Majofo

rlawson

My car has been starting funny when its warm and left for about an hour or so to cool down. Im at 54k do you think that could be causing it?

I hate cars

Describe funny. If it turns over and turns over at the correct speed, it's not the starter.

Mine is still going strong though I probably shouldn't say that. Nearly 106k so far. I always keep a strong battery, it seems to help the starter last longer. If I do too many consecutive short trip days (the drive to the vanpool is only 1.5 miles) I'll drive it the 45 miles to work to charge everything up. Sometimes it seems like the charging system can't fully recover when it's only running for 6-7 minutes at a time with the sound system, seat heaters, rear defroster, and headlights going that whole time.

I wonder if the gear reduction starter on the GN would work. That would be an unexpected sound coming from a TL.

cjTL

iTrader: (2)

Seems like the starters in the TL go out a bit early. Hoping I won't get stranded anytime soon.

Majofo

rlawson

The funny start is if I drive it til its warmed up, let it sit for an hour or so. then go to start it up again it putters to start but once its on it runs fine. its just the initial start after its been sitting....

YeuEmMaiMai

having owned several Honda's and an Acura I can tell you it's NOT normal to be replacing the starter at 90K. my 94 accord has 230K on its' original starter and my 98 had over 100K on it and my cirrent car has 104K on it. Come to think of it, I have never had to replace a starter on any of my cars and one of them had 380K on it when the block cracked

swoosh

iTrader: (5)

wow started going at less than 100K miles ?

I have an 05 with 160K miles and it works like a charm *knocks on wood*

gwiffer

iTrader: (7)

My theory is that these failures are caused by some mix of the following: excessive starts, weak batteries (sustained partial charge as IHC stated), and the close coupled cats that heat up the engine bay (heat kills electric motors).

Black_Hawk_TL

Mine is dieing ...at the dealer as I am posting this lol hey if its under warranty why not change it now I'm at 89,xxx miles

gwiffer

iTrader: (7)

I agree with IHC and think that a fully charged battery increases the life of the starter.

Since I park in a garage, I like to hook up my battery to my VDC BatteryMinder once a month...it fully charges it, automatically switches to maintenance/float charging and desulphates the lead plates. I think it also works with AGM/sealed batteries.

Twice a year, I'll check the acid level inside the battery and add distilled water as necessary. I have over 5 years on the OEM Honda battery, which is known to be a weaker battery than some of the less expensive aftermarket options. If it does die, I'll be headed to Costco to pick up a Kirkland Signature battery (mfd by Johnson Controls).

SurfingScotty

I have to disagree, partially. I've owned: '91 Civic Hatchback (sold w/ 154,000, '91 Civic sedan (sold w/143,000), '94 Vigor (sold w/ 150,000), '98 Prelude (sold w/ 123,000), '98 shadow Spirit 1100 (sold w/ 26,000), 2003 VTX 1800 (still own with 14,000). None of which needed a new starter.

However, my '96 3.2TL's starter failed at 82,000 miles. Rebuilt and died again at 165,000. I was told the contacts go bad but the starter itself is near bulletproof. My '07 TL's starter just failed with only 73,000 miles. So to say that it's uncommon is more true for mid-90's and older Hondas (in my experience). We all know that Honda's quality has greatly deteriorated. I wouldn't dare put it on the same pedestal as say, Ford. However, it's not what it used to be. I'm terribly disappointed on how many ticks, rattles, and clicking sounds my '07 has. Drives me crazy. I sometimes really regret selling my '96 3.2 TL Premium.

Finally: A tip for anyone wanting to replace the starter. Get yourself a massive breaker bar, no less than 2 feet in length as the two bolts holding it to the engine block are tighter than a Nun's (you know what). I'm not kidding. It took me 75 mins to change from start to finish including set up and clean up. 15 mins were spent trying to free the bolts with a standard socket wrench. Another 15 were wasted trying with a 3/8 inch torque wrench w/ about a 1 foot handle. Spend another 15 mins looking for a serious wrench (was working in my father-in-law's "shop"). Finally located a 1/2 inch breaker bar with a good 2 foot lever/handle. I still had to seriously lean on it but that broken them free. SO: save yourself a good 45 mins and just buy a big ass torque wrench and give them hell! Good luck, it's very easy (except for that damn wire connector!). Follow this advise and it can be changed in same time it takes your pizza delivery guy to bring you your pie.

SurfingScotty

I have one of these for my VTX 1800 motorcycle. I use it during the winter months when weeks will go by w/o starting the motor and low temperature of 7-23 degrees are the norm. A huge, cold 1800 cc motor is pretty tough to start as it is not factoring in a low battery.

Not trying to offend anyone but if you drive your car every day and you have a good alternating, use of a battery tender is not necessary. If you live where it gets really cold and several days go by without driving your car or you drive really short distances, then it's a good idea. Other wise, it's over kill.

I hate cars

I wish I had a battery tender for mine. I drive it every day but my trip is about 1.5 miles or 5-7 minutes each way. It's just not enough to fully charge the battery after a start especially in the winter with the rear defrost and seat heater going. Every week or so I'll drive it the 45 miles into work to charge it up and get the condensate out of the oil. More than a week and it gets hard to start.

Scottwax

Agreed. Original starter on my '90 Accord made it to 255k miles before it went out. The one on my '02 Maxima died at 175k miles. Only cars I have had starter issues with were my Chevelle and Z/28 because the headers ran down right next to the starter and would heat soak them. Using a shorter solenoid spring fixed that problem though.

At least access to the starter isn't too bad, pretty easy to replace.

triax37

iTrader: (1)

I'm thinking about buying a starter to keep ready for when mine (91k miles) goes out. I don't have easy access to another car (I live in SF, and am single), and could switch it out myself if it were to die.

Am I crazy? Do normal people (or at least, AZ people!) do this?

Rich Kusmierczak

A breaker bar is a long steel/iron rod...it works when you swing it! Just FYI not being sarcastic. Cuz now I need to find one to whack my starter.....uhhgh!

DMZ

323K miles and still have the original starter!
.
.

horseshoez

iTrader: (2)

If I am not mistaken, cars with manual transmissions use a different starter than the ones with an automatic.

DMZ

JustinZ

I just replaced my starter this weekend

2006 TL Auto, 230,000 KM - Toronto Canada

Didn’t have any prior indicators.

One day I got in and when I turn the ignition the car would just make a single click – luckily the car was parked underground so I didn’t have to get it towed or anything.

I have had previous battery issues like many 3G owners -- Rapid clicking, dash lights flickering… etc. (The short version of my battery issues were that my battery terminal was old and corroded and was not making good contact. So I disassembled the wire connection at the terminal and cleaned the wires with a wire brush and used some of that anti-corrosion foaming spray and bolted on a new terminal. )

Checked the battery voltage and it was acceptable

This time it was different -- the dash lights came on and stayed on while I was turning the ignition, and all I would get was a single loud click. With the help of somebody turning the ignition I was able to pin point the click sound to the location of the starter (under and to the left of the battery)

I heard tapping on the starter may get it to work temporarily so I took a breaker bar and used the handle end to tap the starter and then tried to start it. It didn’t work, same single click. I even tried holding the ignition in the on position while tapping with no effect. I’ve heard this often works – so when it didn’t work it gave me some doubt that it may not be an issue with the starter.

Next I took the solenoid connector off the starter (the small connector on the starter) and put my voltmeter between that connector and the positive battery terminal and turned the ignition again. I was able to get close to battery voltage (11.8v) which helps rule out any problems upstream from the starter. So this gave me more evidence that it was an issue with the starter.

Looking around, I saw that Amazon Canada had a Denso Remanufactured starter with Prime for ~$230CAD ( ). The TL doesn’t have a Denso starter as original equipment but I believe Denso is the OE for other Honda V6 models. So I thought this would be the best choice. (Called around and the dealer was selling a reman one for 280+70core)

A few days later I got it and swapped it in and started right up!



Replacement Procedure/Tips – took me 2h30m

First, get the battery out and the plastic tray underneath it.

Then take the metal tray out with 4 bolts on top (1 bolt stays in the plastic intake). I had some trouble getting a couple of the top bolts out as they were rusted, I put some anti-seize on them when I put them back. As other have started the 2 bolts under the tray will take the most time getting out. I was able to get them out without having to go under the car by using a couple ratchet extensions and an angle adaptor – but it took a long time. You can pull off the top portion of the tube closest to the bumper for easier access to the front bolt.

Once the tray is out – the starter is bolted on with 2x 17mm bolts, I used my breaker bar to get them off. You may have to rotate the socket 90deg on the breaker bar so you can get it in a position where there is space to turn the bolt.

I put the new starter on easily – the new starter had this clip that the original one did not but it did not interfere with anything.

Putting back on the bolts underneath the tray was just as hard, if not harder than taking them off. I taped the bolts to the socket so they didn’t fall into the engine bay while I was trying to screw them in.

Then I put the 4 top bolts on -- I also put some anti-seize on the bolts to help them go in a bit smoother.

Make sure the battery is properly seated in the plastic tray when you put it back.