So forgive this post as there is a lot of frustration mixed in.

I think I know the answer but I went to pull my front struts to install lowering springs today and found the lower wishbone bolt that goes through the lower control arm is rusted tight. This is with using the strongest impact on the market, it starts to spin the bushing in the arm. Anyway I was wondering if anyone has any tricks to break this loose? I soaked it in this anti rust stuff I have but short of torching the bolt out and replacing the arm or bushing I think I screwed.

This pisses me off beyond belief because I bought the car from a guy that moved here from Texas last year so I was hoping the rust prone Acura would be fine... One stripped trans bolt, two seized suspension bolts, and two seized rear toe bolt later I fully regret buying this car! My 92 Nissan 240sx was cleaner then this and didnt have a single seized bolt! It seems Acura/Honda needs to get their head out of their ass and build a car that wont have rusted out suspension bolts in 5 years! *End Rant*

 

Sorry for the problems, but it's not just Acura that has problems. Back in 2004 I picked up a 2001 Jeep GC wholesale that was registered in MN. The oil pan was rusted out, cooling and brake lines rusted as well as the block itself, not to mention the bolts/nuts.

Never tried this, but some have used a BJ/U-Joint press (loaner from parts store) and a lot of lube. Press the bolt until its flat againt the fork, then add a spacer, e.g. another bolt to continue.

 

Huh? That bolt has a nut on the other end. Why are you letting it spin?

 

My 91 civic had this problem on the rear control arm. I end up using a saws-all and cut the bolt and the bushing out. I was replacing the LCA anyway so I wasn't worried about saving the bushing. But from what it sounds like, your screwed and need a new control arm or bushing.

 

We had a similar problem, and, after trying everything, ended up taking a cutting wheel to one side of the bolt (parallel to the shaft), then splitting it of using a chisel. It works, and if you're careful, you split the bolt but don't have to ruin the threads. Good luck.

 

I too am wondering why your letting the bolt spin instead of holding the other side with wrench. Hit it with torch for 30 seconds and use a breaker bar

 

I believe what is happening, the nut is off, but the bolt is "frozen" to the sleeve inside the bushing. The bolt and sleeve spin inside the bushing, so the bolt isn't able to come out.

Happens all the time on the Jeep front control arms as well as other vehicles that have a sleeved bushing and reside in a harsh environment.

 

This is the exact same thing that happens to the rear camber arms. You're going to have to cut the arms, you don't have another option. I used an oxygen + acetylene torch to heat it up and no dice. Just cut it off.

 

I was fully aware of this issue on the rear toe arms as my 06 I had to cut both sides of th arm to get it out, I have just never run into this issue on the front lower bolt. It just seems like vehicle makers need to start putting anti seize on all bolt that sit in a metal sleeve.

And the nut was taken off and I was hitting the bolt with my impact after sitting in PB Blaster for an hour and the bushing was what started to spin and not the bolt.

I am going to just say screw lowering or moding this car, I can do all thge mods I want and its still FWD. Ill give it to my fiance or use it as a winter car and get another 240sx or 350z. Seems drastic I know but just seeing how big of a pain in the ass this car has been in the 3 month I have owned it just proved to me its not worth my time, at the end of the day its just a TL.

 

I go crazy with anti seize anytime I work on suspension/exhaust. Alignment shops probably hate me for it.

 

I do the same, Only on the bolt and not the threads. My alignment guy loves me for it. haha

 

Yeah they love that they're not seized up, just hate that they end up looking like a tin can after they do my alignment because of all the anti seize they get all over them lol.