Hi

So earlier this week, my right rear caliper seized up. I had my mechanic loosen it, but it still grinds a little bit and it gets slightly hotter than the rest of the brakes. I'm in the process of ordering parts from the vendors here, and driving another car in the meanwhile.

There is no glowing or smoke, but I'm not driving it for now just for safety and because I don't want to do further damage.

My mechanic suggested I purchase two rear calipers, two rear rotors, and two brake hoses.

My question is...do I really need both sides right now? There's a delay in shipping, and I need my car back on the road ASAP. I also don't want my mechanic suggesting things just because he thinks I'm made of money. He knows I'm very particular about my car.

What do you suggest I do? I can always go to Autozone or something and buy calipers, but they aren't OEM and they don't seem like it's something I'd want on my car. I'm going with OEM calipers and Stoptech rotors.

Thanks in advance.

 

A mechanic (as opposed to a hack like me) might have a different opinion, but I'd only replace what needs replacing.

If you've got one bad caliper, I'd replace that one.

If it ruined a rotor, I'd replace that and only replace the other rotor IF it had a good bit of age on it.

The rear brakes last a LONG time as they don't do much of the braking (fronts do most of it 70%-ish).

Not sure why you're replacing the hoses at all. Do you know if there's a good reason for it?

 

The car has 126k miles and everything is original (never needed to replace, not being neglectful...), so maybe he's going the preventive route with the hoses?

I've already ordered the parts, I guess the question now remains that should I drive it AT ALL till it's taken care of. It's a slight rub, but I don't feel comfortable driving it 70 miles a day (my commute)

 

The mechanic is covering his, let's say behind. An internal failure of a brake hose will result in what one would believe to be a fozen caliper. With an internal break, the fluid will push the piston outward, but the break will not allow the fluid to return quickly, hence the pads stay in contact with the rotor and therefore heat up. Only check is when this happens, try to push the piston back into the caliper, if no go, undo the bleeder, then if the piston moves inward easily, hose problem, but if not, piston tight in bore and needs rebuilding or replacement.

Yes, one caliper is all that is needed and if the rotor isn't damaged/ grooved it would be good to go. You can get by with a new rotor if a same match as the other side, but if not, I always like to replace them in pairs, same as pads.

With a 70 mile commute, especially if I had other transportation, I certainly wouldn't drive the car until it is repaired as the pads may stay extremely tight against the rotor and even get hot enough to:
http://www.youtube.com/user/RunTX

 

Thanks Turbonut. I have it parked for now...I have withdrawal already. Appreciate the replies guys...I think I made the right decision to replace both sides at the same time. 126k on originals is a LOT...I'm very happy with Acura's design and the amount of life I got out of these. I'll probably do the fronts in a few months too, but as of right now, the car brakes like it did when I first bought it.

 

Glad you got it all resolved. I'm also the type to replace in pairs but realize that there's probably nothing wrong just fixing what's broke.

I'm wondering if this is a common problem because my right rear was also seized. It was covered under warranty though.

Now if you don't mind a thread jack, Turbonut - How does a hose fail internally??? What's there to break inside a hose?

 

The brake hose is made of rubber layers, so to simplify, inside/out:
1-Flexible rubber tube that is brake fluid resistant
2-Wrapper of fiber mesh to control the expansion of the inner hose when under pressure
3-Outer rubber hose that is weather resistant and protects the mesh

The inner layer or layers fracture and with the pressure exerted when braking, the fluid will move past the fracture, but when the fluid tries to return, the fracture inhibits the movement back so the piston stays extended. This is one reason why the brake hose should never be compromised as some use vice grips on the hose to contain the fluid when servicing the system e.g. removing a caliper.

Thought I would add:
http://www.southbayriders.com/forums...hmentid=349612

 

You should be ok with just replacing the seized caliper only. I would also recommend changing both rear rotors. Inspect the other caliper (boots and pins) when replacing the other rotor. I had this happen to me on the highway going 70mph and someone cut me off. Slammed on my brakes, 15 minutes later I started to smell something burning. Pulled over, rotors were toasted (literally burnt) and could not be turned because the caliper bonded to the rotor. Tried to get a tow, but they sent a regular tow truck instead of a flatbed (integra was slammed) By the time the flatbed got there, the caliper had cooled off enough that it freed itself from the rotor. Would give you an excuse to upgrade the rotors...

 

Good point. The parts are in transit and I'm suffering from withdrawal, so I took it out around the block yesterday...not a big distance.

The right rear caliper is definitely getting worse, so no more driving till my parts get here and I drive it to the shop (2 mins away). I had some rare free time so I checked out the other brakes too...the left rear rotor def. need a change. It just has too many grooves.

Can't wait till everything gets here just in time for spring break so I can work on my car all week!

 

I would replace both sides for sure I am a tech at a ford dealership and you should always do both sides.If it were my car i would do both sides for sure

 

keep us updated op.
im starting to hear a similar grinding noise coming from the rear rotors. i hope it's nothing major.
btw where did you end up ordering your parts from?

 

I was going to update it this Friday when everything was installed. So far, I have my rotors in - Rotora slotted from Excelerateperformance.com, they're a vendor. I bought my calipers, brake hoses, and front swaybar endlinks from http://www.acurapartssource.com; they should be in today. Both had great service and were able to accommodate my needs based on shipping requirements and timeliness.

I drove it around the block yesterday just to keep it moving. Since I have two long days of school ahead of me today and tomorrow, the next time I move it will be on Friday to the shop. I don't foresee any problems occurring on the 2 minute drive.

Trust me, use the vendors. I called around my local stealerships and they wanted about $200 PER caliper, refurbished, and they wanted my old calipers in return else it would be a $60 core charge. I laughed at them and gave them a chance to price match and one refused...the other stealership said $160 each. I got both for $126.xx, brand new from Acura, and there was no stupid core charge.

Even though I had to pay extra shipping to get them ASAP, I still got a better deal than what I would've had if I'd gone to the dealer.

 

As requested, here is my update. Got the parts installed today by my independent mechanic. I came home tonight and immediately went for a drive. It feels like the car is brand new. The brakes have no vibrations, no noise. The sway bar endlinks have tightened everything up and it feels so much better than last week. No weird noises, no clunks.

I can't really drive too harshly due to the break in period, but the handling felt great. Those little endlinks being broken basically means I was driving with no front stabilizer bar.

The thought of trading her in for a Type-S or something else had come into my mind, but after tonight, I think I'll keep her till one of us is a goner. Or till the transmission goes.... 126k and counting!

 

I missed the broken end-links. How did that happen?

 

thanx for the update, glad everything worked out for you. Im thinking of getting my rear calipers checked out this weekend.

 

Normal wear and tear, I'd assume.