Mrtastygoody

iTrader: (1)

Tried tapping on smaller sized sockets, going slowly and being nice with it, the sockets just keep slipping off and wrenches won't even grip it. I don't own a torch, and also don't know how to use one so that's out of the question. Maybe vise-grips?

nismopowerdqg

happens.. go to sears and grab a set of these.. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc...p-00952166000P

hammer the closest size onto the nut. and it will come off. but you will need to get a new drain plug and copper crush washer to prevent this from happening again.

pohljm

Be careful hammering on the aluminum! Vise grips should work

ez12a

Drill, baby drill! just kidding, use vice grips if all else fails.

jaws12

Vise grips FTW.

walleyeman

I had the same thing happen last year, I tired EVERYTHING, vice grips, bolt extractors, everything possible to the point where there was no bolt head left to grab or take off. ended up buying a new oil pan for $100 off the internet and got it swapped at the dealer for $270. Would of done it myself but one look at rusty bolts on the Jpipe and I took it to the dealer. Im guessing who ever did the oil change on my car before i bought it used an oversized bolt to rethread the oilpan and thats why it wouldnt come off at all.

oneglory

I did this myself in my driveway. The bolts on the j-pipe were the worst!

EvilJoker

remember... PB Blaster penetrating lube before you try to remove bolt from now on... thats shizz is awesome...

dcmodels

Definitely *not* vice-grips, simply will not give enough grip for the almost 100ft-lbs of force required for removal. Probably the Sears bolt-removers as suggested is the best idea. One thing that happens is that the aluminum drain-washer galls (cold-welds) to both the pan and drain-bolt. So I am uncertain that PB Blaster will work, but it certainly works on rust, which is not the same as galling.

PB Blaster breaks down rust, but I think that you are probably dealing with cold-weld, and there is no way to break it down, although PB Blaster is thin enough it may work its way into any tiny spaces. After using it, you might also try some motorcycle chain-lube, which also works its way into tiny spaces, and is very 'slick' - its a lubricant and most contain molydenum (sp).

Once you have a Sears bolt-remover firmly on the bolt head, apply as much force with a breaker-bar as you can, then 'rap' your left open palm against your right-hand fist on the end of the breaker bar. Its the abrupt force that will help to break-loose the bolt. Good luck, and let us know what finally worked, as frozen bolts and nuts are normal when working on cars.

A final suggestion: use a dead-blow hammer against the breaker-bar. Its the poor-man's air-hammer, and will apply force only in rotation, not also against the pan, as will the type of device that you hammer against the end of. Those work very well, but also apply some considerable force vertically, and the oil pan is aluminum.

I am talking about the 'manual' bolt-remover that has a socket on one end, and you hammer on the other end. That causes a cam-action to rotate the socket, and the socket cannot slip because of the force directed against the bolt head.

pohljm

the name your after is "impact driver"

walleyeman

Pb blaster has never worked for me, the torch is the only thing that has ever worked and it didnt work for this.



This is the aftermath of trying all of the options, did a few more attemps after this picture was taken with smaller extracting sockets and it just kept eating away at the bolt so i just gave up. One shop told me to drill it out, but theres no room for a drill, another said to tap a new drain but it would be temporary only, so I just went with replacing the whole damn thing.

EvilJoker

the only thing easy I can think of is clean that bolt off extremely well and JB Weld a socket to it. Let it sit for 6-8 hours then crank on it. Or you might be able to use a dremel to put a slot in the bolt then use a thick flat head screwdriver.

dcmodels

Thanks, sometimes anymore I cannot seem to quite remember the word I am after.

dcmodels

I would apply the heat to the case around the bolt, rather than the bolt, so that the case expands away from the bolt. Heat applied to the bolt will only expand it tighter into the hole in the oil pan.

A screwdriver is laughable, sorry, but that bolt is going to require at least 100-ft/lbs of force. I have used JB weld for many things, but no way will it work here. Actually welding a socket to the bolt might work. MIG or TIG weld might not get the case hot enough to damage it.

If it were my problem, I would use either a file (if I had a lot of time) or a dremel-type tool and cutting wheels, to put some flats on the bolt head, then use the Sears bolt-removers. Or if I was going to replace the pan anyway, as a last resort I would use an Impact-driver, and attempt not to crack the oil pan.

I definitely would *not* attempt to drill it out, as the amount of force required for removal, would likely break the Easy-out. Of course, I might attempt to actually completely drill out the bolt, all of it except for the threads, but the OP has stated there is insufficient room to drill, so ...

JMO - and out of ideas

P.S. I understand from the OP that someone else overtightened the bolt, but anyway, this is why for my own drain plug I use only 18ft-lbs of torque and safety wire the plug, so it cannot be overtightened.