Rear Right Brake and Rotor

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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 03:48 PM
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Rear Right Brake and Rotor

I just replaced all my brakes and rotors and they have 4,000 miles on them.


My rear right rotor are worn with grooves and my rear right brake is significantly worn down, while the rest of my vehicle is fine?


My camber for my rear right tire is off. I know camber is non-adjustable on these vehicles.


Manufacturer specifications:
Min: -1.5 Max: -0.5


I have done two alignments from separate shops.


One gave me a reading of Initial: -0.2 and Final: 0.0


The second game me a reading of Final: 0.1


What could be causing my brake/rotor problem?


As for the camber the shops looked around and stated nothing is bent. And could not determine the camber problem.
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 04:00 PM
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Stuck caliper. Rebuild or replace.

Are you sure those readings are for rear camber? If those are correct, then something is most certainly bent. Most rear camber readings for 3G TL's are ~ -1.5....
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 04:31 PM
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the piston pushed in easily...


Could it be the slider pins?


I heard some metal screeching sound briefly today.

Last edited by CenturionTL; Apr 20, 2015 at 04:35 PM.
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Old Apr 21, 2015 | 07:38 AM
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If the piston went in easily, could be the sliders, or brake hose. Check the sliders to make certain they move within the bracket, if OK, take the car for a drive and check the temp of the rotor/wheel compared to the other side preferably using a infrared thermometer, or you hand if careful. When you notice a difference in temp, right side hot, take the wheel off and try and move the caliper outward with a large screwdriver through the caliper, pry outward, but if the caliper doesn't move, undo the bleeder and try again, If fluid comes out of the bleeder and the caliper moves, bad hose.
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Old Apr 21, 2015 | 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Turbonut
If the piston went in easily, could be the sliders, or brake hose. Check the sliders to make certain they move within the bracket, if OK, take the car for a drive and check the temp of the rotor/wheel compared to the other side preferably using a infrared thermometer, or you hand if careful. When you notice a difference in temp, right side hot, take the wheel off and try and move the caliper outward with a large screwdriver through the caliper, pry outward, but if the caliper doesn't move, undo the bleeder and try again, If fluid comes out of the bleeder and the caliper moves, bad hose.


Would it matter if its hot or cold when I use a large screwdriver to test the caliper?


I tested the rotor with my hand and the right side is hotter than the left side.


Thanks.

Last edited by CenturionTL; Apr 21, 2015 at 11:24 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 12:21 AM
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aside from the camber issue, would this be causing my vehicle to pull to the right?
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by CenturionTL
Would it matter if its hot or cold when I use a large screwdriver to test the caliper?
I tested the rotor with my hand and the right side is hotter than the left side.Thanks.

You can try it cold, but occasionally if it is a bad hose but not completely blocked, after not being driven for a period of time, the fluid can get back to the master cylinder and the caliper will be able to be moved although the hose is bad, but give it a try.



Originally Posted by CenturionTL
aside from the camber issue, would this be causing my vehicle to pull to the right?
No, it shouldn't cause the car to pull.
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 11:35 AM
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A seized caliper will cause your car to pull to the side opposite of the side with the seized caliper.

So if the left caliper is seized, the car will pull to the right. What did the toe and caster angles read on your alignment?
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Spaceghostdreew
A seized caliper will cause your car to pull to the side opposite of the side with the seized caliper.

So if the left caliper is seized, the car will pull to the right. What did the toe and caster angles read on your alignment?

I don't know if a stuck rear caliper would cause any noticeable pull. If it does, I would think it would pull to the same side as the stuck caliper.

On a RWD drive car, I'd think a stuck front caliper would pull to the same side as the stuck caliper.

On a FWD vehicle, I'd think it'd still pull to the side of the stuck caliper, but maybe not as noticeable?
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Spaceghostdreew
A seized caliper will cause your car to pull to the side opposite of the side with the seized caliper.

So if the left caliper is seized, the car will pull to the right. What did the toe and caster angles read on your alignment?

Final Measurements:


Front:


Caster Left: 3.4
Caster Right: 3.8


Toe Left : 0.0
Toe Right: 0.0
Total: 0.0


Camber Left: -0.3
Camber Right: -0.5


Rear:


Toe Left: 0.0
Toe Right: 0.0
Total: 0.0


Camber Left: 1.2
Camber Right: 0.0
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 04:08 PM
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Rear camber is positive? If that is true, then something is definitely bent I'd say....
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Old Apr 25, 2015 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by CenturionTL
Final Measurements:


Front:


Caster Left: 3.4
Caster Right: 3.8


Toe Left : 0.0
Toe Right: 0.0
Total: 0.0


Camber Left: -0.3
Camber Right: -0.5


Rear:


Toe Left: 0.0
Toe Right: 0.0
Total: 0.0


Toe Left: 0.0
Toe Right: 0.0
Total: 0.0


Camber Left: -1.2 (edit forgot negative sign)
Camber Right: 0.0 <<<-This is the problem



Edited
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