Does anyone have an image of their rear e-brake setup assembled and ready for the rotor to be put on?

I did my rotors today and tried to get the rotors off. The adjustment screw wouldn't turn so we had to literally beat them off the car. In the end, we sheered both tension pins and bent the bottom longer spring.

I'm not much of a diagram person, so I need an actual image of how the springs, etc. look before the rotor goes on.

Can anyone help? Really would appreciate it. This is my first time doing rear brakes, rotors, etc. and it didn't go exactly as planned

 

I've searched this forum a million times, searched google as much, still just can't find one to show how they go together.

The diagrams just don't show enough to make sense of it.

 

this is the exact reason why people do brakes one side at a time, so that there is always the other side to look at if you dont know how it goes together.

 

I have the other side to look at, but the jack is only on one side...so I figured a pic would be great to fix one side, then check the other side...

Both sides aren't screwed up as far as I know...only the passenger side, which had an insanely tight rotor...

 

I'd tried to tell someone else a while back that the adjustment screw on the drum brake is definitely something to look at while doing the rear brakes. this just proves my thought was valid.

So how hard did you try to move the adjustment screw? tried it both ways too?

Look in the TL Diet Thread, he might have a pic in there of it. I'll be a nice guy and look as well.

 

Let's try this.... It's not great but it's all Inaccurate had in his thread.

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/d-094-diy-complete-brake-job-pics-624404/

Scroll down to Step 5.

I know you said you're not a diagram guy, but here they are just in case:

 

Thanks so much - such a life saver!

Yes, definitely use the adjustment screw that is at the BOTTOM of the assembly (going through the access hole on the rotor), get to it with a screw driver. A lot of people don't mention it's importance and they more or less mention "just beat it off the hub", but you will cause more damage then you would like.

The first thing that broke was the tension pins on the left and right hooked to the silver brackets. The spring at the bottom also got tweaked during the beatdown. All in all it was only about $7 worth of parts (plus new pads), but still, it's annoying to have to deal with. Definitely a lesson learned...even after all the reading I did to make sure I was doing it right, I missed one step and caused a headache for myself.

Thanks for the help, the pic is just awesome. If anyone has a higher resolution one, that would be cool too.

 

just making sure. you DID loosen the ebrake when trying to take off the rotor right? thats a common mistake why the rotor stays on so tight...

 

Yes I definitely did that...wasn't THAT dumb, haha!

I'm not sure why it was so stuck, with so little adjustment...very weird.

 

Does anyone have any tips on how to get these brakes back into spec? I understand the "turn the spike wheel until it touches the rotors and then turn it back 6 times" - is there anything else I should know that the instructions don't already spell out?

 

Turn it until the pads touch the rotor, that is...can't edit things...

 

Below are close-up pics. Please be aware that my pics might inaccurately (bad pun ) represent how they should be assembled.

I had to disassemble them to remove them for my TL Diet. I just quickly threw them back together (haphazardly) after having remove the assemblies. I knew that I would not ever be reinstalling them, should I did not take care in piecing them back together.

 

I just got done doing mine as well. One side at a time. I bought stupid pep boy pads and they were took freaking big. Bought the OEM pads + all hardware for $150 and everything worked like a charm.

Don't forget to lube the points mentioned in the manual. You will want a little friction when it's installed. It should be able to do about 1 rotation before coming to a stop because of the friction.

 

Yeah, follow the manual instructions I posted and do the lining brake-in procedures. After all that is done, you may need to make major/minor p-brake cable adjustments. These procedures are posted in the forum. Do a search to find them.