jbeck

2004 5AT TL

One day out of nowhere I got on the interstate and my car was kind of being pushed from side to side - kind of seemed like side winds were blowing pretty good. Anyways, when I arrived to my destination I smelled something burnt and found it to be the rear passenger side caliper was stuck down to the rotor. I could tell because there was an intense amount of heat coming from it.
Fast forward 2 weeks and I haven't done anything about it. I have new pads and rotors but I don't want to install them without fixing the problem. The pad on that side is completely gone and now it's just the metal back plate of the pad rubbing on the caliper.
Makes an awful grinding sound at speeds less than 5mph. I can hear physical grinding or metal on metal contact up until about 20 mph. Then it seems to become faint. However, even with minimal braking the rotor is still hotter than hell so I know it's rubbing at all times.

Wondering what I should take as a course of action. Should I buy new calipers for the rear to install when I do the brakes? I kinda want to make this a one step process, if you will.
Do TLs have a common problem with their brakes sticking or anything that might be suggestive of what I am dealing with?
I know it could also be a frozen caliper or clogged brake line but is there a way to tell which one is the issue?

I'm assuming it can't be a parking brake issue because I've heard the parking brake uses a drum and shoes and NOT the caliper and pads that the primary brakes use.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

brake fluid is hygroscopic. it absorbs water from the atmosphere.
if brake fluid is left inside brake lines for too long, that moisture will create RUST inside the brake lines.

also, the rubber brake lines can crack and deteriorate causing problems.

Since, We cant see your car over the internet.....
YOU will need to determine whether or not it's the brake fluid, brake line, or caliper itself.

We already know that the one side is sticking....
so, you'll need to investigate that particular brake line....
then investigate that particular caliper.

you'll need to pull off the wheel and inspect brake line and caliper.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

^ Probably caliper, but to add additional info. Remove the wheel, caliper and try and push in the piston. If it doesn't go in easily, undo the bleeder and try again. If it now goes in easily, brake line collapsed inside, if still tight, no movement, replace caliper.

WDPanda

I've had to change dozens of calipers. My current rear 2 on my TL being done in the past year.
Remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper and snake it out and see that the piston is seized. Try to find a local place that rebuilds them. Would cost $40-60 from re builders.
I would hate to see a $80 (each rotor) and $80 (pair of pads) get chewed up over a $50 part. And you can bleed the brakes while you're at it. Vacuum pump is thr easiest IMO.

aIRpeACE

iTrader: (2)

where can you purchase OEM or OEM compatible caliper?

polobunny

The usual places. Your Acura dealer, almost any site with a google search of Acura OEM parts, Rockauto Parts, Bernardi etc etc

aIRpeACE

iTrader: (2)

what about OEM compatible? anything recommended other than OEM.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

Thread above mentioned Rock Auto where there are many available.

aIRpeACE

iTrader: (2)

what are some of the rotors you guys recommend?

i am looking at the Duralast Gold Rotor and Pro Stop

http://www.pepboys.com/product/detai...ke_rotors_rear

Duralast Gold/Brake Rotor - Rear 31316DG at AutoZone.com

anyone had experience on either one? Thanks