Rear Brakes Over heating
#42
Team Owner
#43
I loosen the screw. driver pumps the gas slowly a couple times, holds pedal down for a few seconds letting the fluid drain. Then while holding the pedal down I tighten the screw and we repeat. started with FL,FR,RR,RL. I drained the fluid all the way through until all new fluid was coming out, and about ten pumps after that. No more air was coming out.
#44
All,
Finally figured out the culprit causing the rear brakes to over heat. It ending up being the calipers... Replaced the rear calipers this weekend and all is good. I know this seems like the logical problem but I had taken it into the dealer twice and they said the rear calipers were fine. The weird thing was that they retracted perfectly fine when I inspected them and the problem on both rear brakes would fluctuate over time. The RR caliper would be causing the rotor to get extremely hot while the RL would be perfectly fine. Then all of a sudden both would be getting extremely hot and at times only the RL would be heating up. Long story short, the calipers were seizing up slightly (not completely seized up) causing the little added friction on the brakes. Anyone who was having similar problems to this, I would recommend putting in new calipers.
Finally figured out the culprit causing the rear brakes to over heat. It ending up being the calipers... Replaced the rear calipers this weekend and all is good. I know this seems like the logical problem but I had taken it into the dealer twice and they said the rear calipers were fine. The weird thing was that they retracted perfectly fine when I inspected them and the problem on both rear brakes would fluctuate over time. The RR caliper would be causing the rotor to get extremely hot while the RL would be perfectly fine. Then all of a sudden both would be getting extremely hot and at times only the RL would be heating up. Long story short, the calipers were seizing up slightly (not completely seized up) causing the little added friction on the brakes. Anyone who was having similar problems to this, I would recommend putting in new calipers.
#45
Team Owner
I loosen the screw. driver pumps the gas slowly a couple times, holds pedal down for a few seconds letting the fluid drain. Then while holding the pedal down I tighten the screw and we repeat. started with FL,FR,RR,RL. I drained the fluid all the way through until all new fluid was coming out, and about ten pumps after that. No more air was coming out.
#46
oops is that your face?
iTrader: (3)
All,
Finally figured out the culprit causing the rear brakes to over heat. It ending up being the calipers... Replaced the rear calipers this weekend and all is good. I know this seems like the logical problem but I had taken it into the dealer twice and they said the rear calipers were fine. The weird thing was that they retracted perfectly fine when I inspected them and the problem on both rear brakes would fluctuate over time. The RR caliper would be causing the rotor to get extremely hot while the RL would be perfectly fine. Then all of a sudden both would be getting extremely hot and at times only the RL would be heating up. Long story short, the calipers were seizing up slightly (not completely seized up) causing the little added friction on the brakes. Anyone who was having similar problems to this, I would recommend putting in new calipers.
Finally figured out the culprit causing the rear brakes to over heat. It ending up being the calipers... Replaced the rear calipers this weekend and all is good. I know this seems like the logical problem but I had taken it into the dealer twice and they said the rear calipers were fine. The weird thing was that they retracted perfectly fine when I inspected them and the problem on both rear brakes would fluctuate over time. The RR caliper would be causing the rotor to get extremely hot while the RL would be perfectly fine. Then all of a sudden both would be getting extremely hot and at times only the RL would be heating up. Long story short, the calipers were seizing up slightly (not completely seized up) causing the little added friction on the brakes. Anyone who was having similar problems to this, I would recommend putting in new calipers.
#47
Team Owner
Glad you got it fixed. I highly recommend flushing the fluid every year based on what I've seen come out of the rear calipers. They seem to be the water and sludge trap of the system. Flushing every year should drastically cut down on the number of frozen pistons.
#50
Team Owner
On one hand they're not freezing up due to wear so you can say replacing both is not needed because the bad one didn't technically wear out. On the other hand you can say if one froze up, how far behind is the other. I'm kind of split on this one but you can't go wrong doing both and saving the good one just in case you need it later.
#51
oops is that your face?
iTrader: (3)
guys don't jump right into replacing calipers I can't stress this enough. grease everything up first, check ur ebrake shoes (in my case I needed to adjust and sand them down a few mm), maybe buy the caliper rebuild kit. calipers really are resilient and may only need alittle tlc, lately do what I still have neglected to do and bleed ur brakes with fresh fluid!!!
#52
Team Owner
People should never sand the shoes. There's an adjustment on each side to back the shoes off.
#53
Racer
I've had this issue maybe got it resolved and the sequence may be telling... maybe.
Original rotors and calipers looked horrible and were trashed, so I was upgrading anyway. I was going big with just replacing everything to coincidentally chase this problem and just cuz my ride deserved the midlife overhaul. I had the RR caliper replaced. My mechanic couldn't source new lines, or a LR caliper like I wanted, so I drove around for a week with new rotors and one new rear caliper, and the issue did not go away. The one new caliper I could hear was scraping a little more than it should, the dust was "chunkier" than the fine dust it should be, and both rears were noticeably hotter than the fronts.
A week later, I got in new SS lines from XLR8, mechanic got a new LR caliper to match the right (yes, they don't have to be replaced in pairs or 'match', but like I said, I was going big), flushed and filled with Motul 5.1 and it appears the problem is solved. I'm not 100% positive, but I think if your calipers are in good shape, I think it's the lines, maybe collapsing unnoticeably and not letting the calipers release. If you add any stickiness in the caliper, the problem just aggravates, so you do have to at least service the caliper as well, but maybe not replace it.
FWIW
Original rotors and calipers looked horrible and were trashed, so I was upgrading anyway. I was going big with just replacing everything to coincidentally chase this problem and just cuz my ride deserved the midlife overhaul. I had the RR caliper replaced. My mechanic couldn't source new lines, or a LR caliper like I wanted, so I drove around for a week with new rotors and one new rear caliper, and the issue did not go away. The one new caliper I could hear was scraping a little more than it should, the dust was "chunkier" than the fine dust it should be, and both rears were noticeably hotter than the fronts.
A week later, I got in new SS lines from XLR8, mechanic got a new LR caliper to match the right (yes, they don't have to be replaced in pairs or 'match', but like I said, I was going big), flushed and filled with Motul 5.1 and it appears the problem is solved. I'm not 100% positive, but I think if your calipers are in good shape, I think it's the lines, maybe collapsing unnoticeably and not letting the calipers release. If you add any stickiness in the caliper, the problem just aggravates, so you do have to at least service the caliper as well, but maybe not replace it.
FWIW
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