just stock breaks. I bled them until there wasn't any more air coming out of the system and about 10-15 more pumps of the brake pedal.

 

What is your bleeding process?

 

I loosen the screw. driver pumps the gas slowly a couple times, holds pedal down for a few seconds letting the fluid drain. Then while holding the pedal down I tighten the screw and we repeat. started with FL,FR,RR,RL. I drained the fluid all the way through until all new fluid was coming out, and about ten pumps after that. No more air was coming out.

 

All,

Finally figured out the culprit causing the rear brakes to over heat. It ending up being the calipers... Replaced the rear calipers this weekend and all is good. I know this seems like the logical problem but I had taken it into the dealer twice and they said the rear calipers were fine. The weird thing was that they retracted perfectly fine when I inspected them and the problem on both rear brakes would fluctuate over time. The RR caliper would be causing the rotor to get extremely hot while the RL would be perfectly fine. Then all of a sudden both would be getting extremely hot and at times only the RL would be heating up. Long story short, the calipers were seizing up slightly (not completely seized up) causing the little added friction on the brakes. Anyone who was having similar problems to this, I would recommend putting in new calipers.

 

There's your problem. You never pump the brakes with the bleeder open. Have the helper apply pressure, then you open the bleeder and make sure to close it before the pedal gets to the floor and before they let up on the pedal. Pumping them with the bleeder open pushes air and fluid out and then sucks it right back in.

 

thanks bud I've been having a similar problem on and off for the past month or so. just replaced my brake setup with the brakemotive kit thinking it would solve it but NOPE. going to replace both rear calipers as well when I get some extra money even though the driverside is the worse of the two, happening more often but still not all the time. thanks for the input bro, and how long did u have this going on and how much damage did this do to ur rotors/pads? I'm just worried about my new kit since I only installed a week or so ago? could just please PM me whenever u get a chance with answers to my questions

 

Glad you got it fixed. I highly recommend flushing the fluid every year based on what I've seen come out of the rear calipers. They seem to be the water and sludge trap of the system. Flushing every year should drastically cut down on the number of frozen pistons.

 

Experiencing the same problem. Should I replace both calipers or just the one I am currently having problems with?

 

If you can afford it, I would just replace the both of them as long as you're doing the one. Some may disagree but i cant hurt.

 

On one hand they're not freezing up due to wear so you can say replacing both is not needed because the bad one didn't technically wear out. On the other hand you can say if one froze up, how far behind is the other. I'm kind of split on this one but you can't go wrong doing both and saving the good one just in case you need it later.

 

guys don't jump right into replacing calipers I can't stress this enough. grease everything up first, check ur ebrake shoes (in my case I needed to adjust and sand them down a few mm), maybe buy the caliper rebuild kit. calipers really are resilient and may only need alittle tlc, lately do what I still have neglected to do and bleed ur brakes with fresh fluid!!!

 

People should never sand the shoes. There's an adjustment on each side to back the shoes off.

 

I've had this issue maybe got it resolved and the sequence may be telling... maybe.

Original rotors and calipers looked horrible and were trashed, so I was upgrading anyway. I was going big with just replacing everything to coincidentally chase this problem and just cuz my ride deserved the midlife overhaul. I had the RR caliper replaced. My mechanic couldn't source new lines, or a LR caliper like I wanted, so I drove around for a week with new rotors and one new rear caliper, and the issue did not go away. The one new caliper I could hear was scraping a little more than it should, the dust was "chunkier" than the fine dust it should be, and both rears were noticeably hotter than the fronts.

A week later, I got in new SS lines from XLR8, mechanic got a new LR caliper to match the right (yes, they don't have to be replaced in pairs or 'match', but like I said, I was going big), flushed and filled with Motul 5.1 and it appears the problem is solved. I'm not 100% positive, but I think if your calipers are in good shape, I think it's the lines, maybe collapsing unnoticeably and not letting the calipers release. If you add any stickiness in the caliper, the problem just aggravates, so you do have to at least service the caliper as well, but maybe not replace it.

FWIW