Rack and Pinion issues
04-02-2014, 03:43 AM
#1
Rack and Pinion issues
I recently got a 05' 6MT, and I put a remanufactured P.S. Pump into it, the winding noise hasn't gone away so some people have said i need a new rack. When I open the P.S fluid reservoir there is air bubbles, should I get a new P.S. pump when I change the rack. 
04-03-2014, 09:02 AM
#3
I've had to replace my rack and pinion last year as when I would turn the wheel it made clicking noises. This would happen when I turned the wheels to their full extreme at slow speeds. Went to a mechanic and had it swapped out for $550. No more noises.
04-04-2014, 05:05 PM
#6
It's worth a shot to try something that I did, my pump was good and I had bubbles in my reservoir..
Check the fittings on the rack, mine was leaking from the rear of the rack where the fittings are by the firewall. Tighten the fittings if they're loose and leaking. It also looked to be leaking from the top where it meets with the steering column.
Check the hoses, see if they're cracked, hose clamps are too tight or leaking.. I had to replace 1x leaking hose by my front bumper in the return line..
Then I ran about 1.1oz. of autorx through my power steering system for about 1500 miles or so, I was only supposed to do it for 1000 miles.. definitely install a magnefine filter in the system prior to running autorx through it. It's going to break a lot of crud free from the system and the filter needs to be there to catch it so it doesn't circulate through the system while it's cleaning it out and reconditioning the seals.
Afterwards I drained all of the fluid and re-filled it using this procedure..
I haven't had any problems since, my power steering system makes no noises and there are no longer any bubbles in my power steering reservoir.
This would be a lot cheaper than replacing a rack and pinion that might be good still and shops are going to be very willing to take your money and replace the rack even though you might be able to easily repair it.
If it's not the pump or the o-rings, it's definitely worth a shot prior to replacing the rack.
Check the fittings on the rack, mine was leaking from the rear of the rack where the fittings are by the firewall. Tighten the fittings if they're loose and leaking. It also looked to be leaking from the top where it meets with the steering column.
Check the hoses, see if they're cracked, hose clamps are too tight or leaking.. I had to replace 1x leaking hose by my front bumper in the return line..
Then I ran about 1.1oz. of autorx through my power steering system for about 1500 miles or so, I was only supposed to do it for 1000 miles.. definitely install a magnefine filter in the system prior to running autorx through it. It's going to break a lot of crud free from the system and the filter needs to be there to catch it so it doesn't circulate through the system while it's cleaning it out and reconditioning the seals.
Afterwards I drained all of the fluid and re-filled it using this procedure..
Flushed my PS fluid today, I used OEM fluid just thought I'd show how it was done, I did it the way DCmodels said to flush the fluid.
Supported the front on jack stands and blocked the rear wheels, then I disconnected the rubber return line in front by the bumper, as seen in the diagram and allowed all the old fluid to drain out.
I then plugged the end of the hose, as pictured, and put a hose clamp on it. I used a 3/8" drill bit to plug it, just the smooth end of the drill bit in the hose I left the sharp parts sticking out of it I didn't have a bolt that would fit.
I ran a 3/8" hose (had some extra laying around) off the metal return line down there out from under the car to my drain box. Didn't use any clamps on it just slid it on.
Then I stuck a big funnel in the reservoir and filled it back up. If you don't plug the return line end that is disconnected like I mentioned the fluid is going to just run out from gravity through the reservoir.
Then I put the car in neutral, insert key move to ACC, depress brake (I have an AT) and put the selector in neutral. This is one of the reasons I had the rear wheels blocked with 4x4s I only had the front supported by stands.
I was then able to turn the steering wheel freely and it worked just like DCmodels said it would, new fluid was pulled into the system and the old stuff was captured in my drain box. I kept topping up the fluid and draining it out by turning the steering wheel.
In total I went through 3 3/4 bottles of fluid (12oz. each) then I removed the plug (I had the fluid in the reservoir below where the return line connects to it) and the 3/8 hose that I had connected and re-connected the return hose that goes in front and put the clamps back on it.
Then refilled the reservoir again and turned the steering wheel again, I went through another 12 oz. of fluid (1x bottle) at this point since the new fluid had to fill the return lines again.
Buttoned the car back up and put it on the floor, ran it and the fluid went down a bit more so I had to drive to a dealership and buy some more fluid since I was out, got the level inbetween the min and max lines and now it's good.
In total I put a little over 5 bottles (12oz. each) into the system doing this.
Definitely seems like the right way to do this, a lot better than the baster method or the method in the FSM.
Pic to help, if anyone else looks at doing this, probably the easiest and safest way to flush the power steering system.
Supported the front on jack stands and blocked the rear wheels, then I disconnected the rubber return line in front by the bumper, as seen in the diagram and allowed all the old fluid to drain out.
I then plugged the end of the hose, as pictured, and put a hose clamp on it. I used a 3/8" drill bit to plug it, just the smooth end of the drill bit in the hose I left the sharp parts sticking out of it I didn't have a bolt that would fit.
I ran a 3/8" hose (had some extra laying around) off the metal return line down there out from under the car to my drain box. Didn't use any clamps on it just slid it on.
Then I stuck a big funnel in the reservoir and filled it back up. If you don't plug the return line end that is disconnected like I mentioned the fluid is going to just run out from gravity through the reservoir.
Then I put the car in neutral, insert key move to ACC, depress brake (I have an AT) and put the selector in neutral. This is one of the reasons I had the rear wheels blocked with 4x4s I only had the front supported by stands.
I was then able to turn the steering wheel freely and it worked just like DCmodels said it would, new fluid was pulled into the system and the old stuff was captured in my drain box. I kept topping up the fluid and draining it out by turning the steering wheel.
In total I went through 3 3/4 bottles of fluid (12oz. each) then I removed the plug (I had the fluid in the reservoir below where the return line connects to it) and the 3/8 hose that I had connected and re-connected the return hose that goes in front and put the clamps back on it.
Then refilled the reservoir again and turned the steering wheel again, I went through another 12 oz. of fluid (1x bottle) at this point since the new fluid had to fill the return lines again.
Buttoned the car back up and put it on the floor, ran it and the fluid went down a bit more so I had to drive to a dealership and buy some more fluid since I was out, got the level inbetween the min and max lines and now it's good.
In total I put a little over 5 bottles (12oz. each) into the system doing this.
Definitely seems like the right way to do this, a lot better than the baster method or the method in the FSM.
Pic to help, if anyone else looks at doing this, probably the easiest and safest way to flush the power steering system.
I haven't had any problems since, my power steering system makes no noises and there are no longer any bubbles in my power steering reservoir.
This would be a lot cheaper than replacing a rack and pinion that might be good still and shops are going to be very willing to take your money and replace the rack even though you might be able to easily repair it.
If it's not the pump or the o-rings, it's definitely worth a shot prior to replacing the rack.
Last edited by mzilvar; 04-04-2014 at 05:13 PM.
05-11-2014, 10:48 PM
#7
^^thanks for that diagram bud, I'm unsure if stiff turning is normal on the tl, but I'm sure I'm going to need the information on this thread to troubleshoot any potential problems if it isn't something normal on these cars.
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