ityper

The metal bar connecting the rsb end-links snapped off like a twig today. I was lifting the car up with a jack and the piece just shot right out. What might be the cause of this? Where can i get a replacement for this piece?
I torqued the end links to rsb to specified specs (28lb if i recall). However, the bolts connecting the bushings to the underbody of the vehicle were not torqued to any specific specification. I just muscled it in until i couldnt tighten anymore. Did i over torque these bolts connecting the bushings to the underbody causing the link mentioned to snap off?

Does anyone know what the part number and name of this piece is? any special tools needed to remove? TIA!









The right side that's still intact.


any advice is appreciated!

blueracer17

It looks like it broke around the weld. This would indicate improper welding. If you just installed it, call progress and tell them what happened maybe they will help you out. Doesn't look like an installation problem to me. At the very least they should sell you a replacement part. Good luck.

ityper

i apologize as the title might be misleading. The link bar is not from progress, but from the oem tl suspension itself.

BLACKURA_NY

iTrader: (6)

Thats the end link for the sway bar

i am sure it can be had for about $20 from a parts source

p.s., i wouldnt drive without that... the car will be really unstable

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

I'd say you are on your own to replace the part and Progress or Acura won't cover it even though it looks like a defect.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

From one online oem dealer, it's about $41.00 each.

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

Bearcat94

Just replace it.

Probably (hopefully ) a material defect, but with the RSB you might have an arguement with dealer to get warranty on it.

I don't think there are any special tools other than a hex key and a wrench to unbolt/rebolt the end links.

JDM5lugHatch

You could probably benefit from a reinforced endlink. Check to see if Progress offers one. Otherwise it might happen again.

Bearcat94

If that's the case, why hasn't it happened to anyone else?

There are a LOT of 3G's with Progress (and Comptech) RSB's on this board and this (AFAIK) is the only end-link failure.

JDM5lugHatch

You can always benefit from reinforced swaybar endlinks. I have seen all kinds of endlink failures on subarus and hondas and just because there has been 1 or 2 failures on the forums that doesn't mean there aren't more out there.

I had the comptech bar on my TL and never had a problem either but I was looking for upgraded endlinks only because I had them break on a previous car.

Bearcat94

An upgraded end-link would be a nice option. Not sure if one is available though - I did not see any when I looked for upgraded bushings.

Is a routine visual inspection of the stock end-links an appropriate preventive/diagnostic measure with an upgraded RSB?

ityper

well i went to the local acura dealership and got the rear end link for $60 dollars. Replacement was straight fwd, about a 15 min job. I'm still baffled why the link snapped. In any case, hope this is the last time.

FYI, progress does not make an end links kit for the 3G TL, I emailed them earlier today.

REY

I was worried about the same thing since the progress bar is so much stronger than the OEM 17mm i think it is. I was racing around last night after I had just installed it and heard a few clunks. I took a look and theres noting wrong so maybe it was something else. I'm sure anyone would notice if they were driving without that thing attached. Those end link bars do look kinda flimsy tho. Yeah at least the fix is cheap and simple. Good luck

Fulani has a TL

iTrader: (1)

I know this is a kind of old thread, but whats the part number for the endlink? I am going to change out both left and right side, as I am getting the clunking sound, and I checked the bushings they are fine, even placed lube on them, but still get the sounds. All bolts are tight even the ones that are on the end links, so I am going to try and change endlinks out.

HELP!!!

csmeance

before you order them, loosen up the bushings, then retighten until tight. Then go for a drive, park and re-tighten them. I had the same issue, but with the Comptech bar, and this cured the problem.

If you need the endlinks, you can buy upgraded ones (not sure by how much) from rockauto dot com, they have a few different manufacturers. Not sure which is the best, but just passing on the info. Also thanks for searching

ifirahse

iTrader: (6)

I just installed my progress rsb a week ago and haven't had any problems with endlinks. Were there any differences in handling or did you only notice the endlink was broken when you jacked up the car?

Tripnbeats

it happens sometimes theres a bad batch sometimes there's not....it couldve seized in position for whatever reason of the original rsb and when u installed the new bar on there it couldve had too much stress and broke. it happened to me too....had both changed out...i do things in pairs...you never know if the other is defective.

I hate cars

Jacking the car puts more stress on the bar and it's components than any amount of normal use will. Think about what the bar is supposed to do and what the jack is doing...

The only thing I can think of that would put the same stress is to go around hitting speedbumps very hard with only one side of the car.

DMZ

I went to the dealer just last week complaining of a clunking sound coming from the rear when going over bumps. After an hour of test driving and troubleshooting, they claimed I needed new stabilizer bar bushings and end links. They also said that the links could not be warranted since I have an aftermarket sway bar. The bushings were only $5 each from Comptech and the end links were:

Parts
52320-SFY-J01 ...... LINK, R. RR. STABILIZER ..... $40.80
52325-SFY-J01 ...... LINK, L. RR. STABILIZER ..... $40.80

from www.AcuraOEMParts.com

Also, the bolts need to be torqued CORRECTLY, not tighted by your strength.
.
.
.

Fulani has a TL

iTrader: (1)

Main issue I had was the "clunk" sound. I then thought it was the bushings, but they werent bad so just lubed them up. Then I realized on the rear driver side where they have been test fitting wheels there was a gap within the endlink, compared it to the passenger side, def. not the same. Thats why I think it is the endlink.

I never had problems until went in for a test fit and they simulated a load on the suspension. So it has to be end link.

Thanks CSmeance, I was debating that, but read in another thread that leedogg had issues with sizing. Just went OEM will be here next day as well...

Agree with you DMZ, in regards to the torque being correct, thats why I have three torque wrenches But do you happen to know the torque specs for the end links?

Bearcat94

Bushing Bols are 16 ft-lbs.

End-Link at the RSB is 28 ft-lbs; at the other end, 29 ft-lbs.

Fulani has a TL

iTrader: (1)

Bushing Bolts are 16?!! Uhh ohh, I thought they were 29. Wonder if that will be an issue?

DMZ

Just discovered I could have gotten the MOOG brand replacements from Rockauto.com for HALF the price of the OEM's.
Live & learn I guess.

MOOG Part # K90342 {Sway Bar Link Kit} Rr Susp; RH $18.97
MOOG Part # K90343 {Sway Bar Link Kit} Rr Susp; LH $18.97

csmeance

Mr. Heel Toe has new beefy endlinks for the TL, I sticked it in the suspension fourm. take a look at em, they are 3x thicker than the stock ones...

Fulani has a TL

iTrader: (1)

I knowww. I dropped 110 on new endlinks. and after I got done installing I saw Mr. Heel Toes post!!!!!!!

Tripnbeats

those will be next....the ones we have stock dont last that long, i think last year alone i had 4 sets put on.