Possible power steering pump whine.
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Possible power steering pump whine.
Hey guys, haven’t posted in a while as I haven’t had any issues. Last week my 2006 6mt started to whine. I narrowed it down to the area near the power steering pump, tensioner pulley and alternator.
I purchased the tensioner kit to replace it, git the belt off, spun the first bearing and it was smooth, next I spun the alternator and it made a little noise so I figured it was the alternator.
put the belt back on, go buy a reman started, put it on. The car still whines.
It gets louder as you accelerate and doesn’t make change when turning the steering wheel and no bubbles in the reservoir.
I still have the tensioner kit but the sound seems to be coming from the power steering pump.
Has anyone had issues with the power steering bearings?
At this point I’m tempted to replace the tensioner and the power steering pump.
I purchased the tensioner kit to replace it, git the belt off, spun the first bearing and it was smooth, next I spun the alternator and it made a little noise so I figured it was the alternator.
put the belt back on, go buy a reman started, put it on. The car still whines.
It gets louder as you accelerate and doesn’t make change when turning the steering wheel and no bubbles in the reservoir.
I still have the tensioner kit but the sound seems to be coming from the power steering pump.
Has anyone had issues with the power steering bearings?
At this point I’m tempted to replace the tensioner and the power steering pump.
#7
Pro
Thread Starter
I thought you weren’t supposed to run the car without the belt on? Anyway I just snapped the bolt that holds the tensioner pulley into the engine.
I was following a post on the forum here that said the bolt was reverse threaded.
it wasn’t. Now I’ll have to lift the engine out.
I may just junk the car. Piece of crap.
I was following a post on the forum here that said the bolt was reverse threaded.
it wasn’t. Now I’ll have to lift the engine out.
I may just junk the car. Piece of crap.
Trending Topics
#9
I thought you weren’t supposed to run the car without the belt on? Anyway I just snapped the bolt that holds the tensioner pulley into the engine.
I was following a post on the forum here that said the bolt was reverse threaded.
it wasn’t. Now I’ll have to lift the engine out.
I may just junk the car. Piece of crap.
I was following a post on the forum here that said the bolt was reverse threaded.
it wasn’t. Now I’ll have to lift the engine out.
I may just junk the car. Piece of crap.
I'm pretty sure there are no reverse threaded bolts anywhere on that car. Make sure you get a quality extractor. A snapped extractor tip inside a broken bolt just turns a day from bad to super crappy.
#10
Senior Moderator
I believe the idler pulley is reverse threaded
#12
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Auto-tensioner pulley bolt is left-hand threaded and a few are in the transmission as well.
#14
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Which one did you fubar?
#7 Left-hand thread
or #8 or 15 right hand thread?
https://www.acuraoemparts.com/v-2006...rnator-bracket
#7 Left-hand thread
or #8 or 15 right hand thread?
https://www.acuraoemparts.com/v-2006...rnator-bracket
#15
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
If you fubar'd #8, that one appears to thread into the A/C compressor bracket; therefore, if #15 is OK, that can be removed and the A/C compressor bracket can be removed to perform a 'fix' or just install a new #13 'without lifting the engine '.
https://www.acuraoemparts.com/v-2006...a-c-compressor
https://www.acuraoemparts.com/v-2006...a-c-compressor
Last edited by zeta; 10-04-2020 at 02:08 PM.
#16
Pro
Thread Starter
If you fubar'd #8, that one appears to thread into the A/C compressor bracket; therefore, if #15 is OK, that can be removed and the A/C compressor bracket can be removed to perform a 'fix' or just install a new #13 'without lifting the engine '.
https://www.acuraoemparts.com/v-2006...a-c-compressor
https://www.acuraoemparts.com/v-2006...a-c-compressor
https://www.acuraoemparts.com/v-2006...rnator-bracket
Last edited by Joecop67; 10-04-2020 at 02:35 PM.
#17
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
^ You see, from the diagrams provided, my logic to the fix?
#18
You might be able to extract the bolt with the compressor bracket in place. Here is a link to a poster with a similar problem (he apparently stripped the hole). He did not follow-up so I'm not sure if it is possible to extract with bracket in place. It seems that with the compressor bracket in place you will need to unmount the engine and tilt it to get needed clearance (post #16).
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p.../#post16568977
Last edited by redbeard1; 10-04-2020 at 03:03 PM. Reason: sorry did not see Zeta's last post.
#20
I'm not sure how much space there is, but my favorite method of extracting bolts like those is welding a nut to whatever is left of the nut.
Safer than drilling, works better than any of those crap extractors (that promise everything but don't do anything) and work in tight spaces as long as I can reach it with the welder.
Safer than drilling, works better than any of those crap extractors (that promise everything but don't do anything) and work in tight spaces as long as I can reach it with the welder.
#22
You can.
GM cars like to break bolts holding the exhaust manifold. Welding nuts to get them out is my main method, as left-hand drills or extractors don't really work.
As long as you have enough space and bolt / stud isn't stuck too bad, welding is probably the best method.
GM cars like to break bolts holding the exhaust manifold. Welding nuts to get them out is my main method, as left-hand drills or extractors don't really work.
As long as you have enough space and bolt / stud isn't stuck too bad, welding is probably the best method.
#24
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
The following users liked this post:
zeta (10-06-2020)
#26
Instructor
#28
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
^^
Also, when flexing the alt. tensioner to the rear (in changing the belt), using a 'long' tool like the one on the link below, the pressure of leveraging forward (rearward) would loosen a right hand threaded bolt; therefore, it's left hand threaded to keep it tight during this process.
https://www.jrpimpexf.com/index.php?...ucts_id=104996
Also, when flexing the alt. tensioner to the rear (in changing the belt), using a 'long' tool like the one on the link below, the pressure of leveraging forward (rearward) would loosen a right hand threaded bolt; therefore, it's left hand threaded to keep it tight during this process.
https://www.jrpimpexf.com/index.php?...ucts_id=104996
#29
Pro
Thread Starter
Picked the car yesterday afternoon. They charged me $120 to take the broken bolt out, and install the tensioner pulley I supplied.
So now I’ve replaced the pulley, the alternator and the noise still persists. I guess I will replace the power steering pump.
So now I’ve replaced the pulley, the alternator and the noise still persists. I guess I will replace the power steering pump.
The following users liked this post:
justnspace (10-10-2020)
#31
Before buying a new power steering pump, you may want to run the engine without the accessory belt to rule out a timing belt area noise. I did it with no issues a while back while trying to isolate a similar noise.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...e-belt-975508/
#33
Instructor
Joecop have you tried using a tube, piece of pipe, or stethoscope to isolate the noise? You might be surprised how well that works. Slowly move a long tube around with your ear pressed tightly on the end, with your other ear plugged if necessary. When you're pointing at the source it will become much louder.
#34
Pro
Thread Starter
Joecop have you tried using a tube, piece of pipe, or stethoscope to isolate the noise? You might be surprised how well that works. Slowly move a long tube around with your ear pressed tightly on the end, with your other ear plugged if necessary. When you're pointing at the source it will become much louder.
I’ll grab one at autozone. They have them new for $111, have it handy so that when I take the belt off again and start the car, I can see if the noise is gone.
#35
Pro
Thread Starter
Replaced the power steering pump. Noise is gone. An FYI, 45 minutes is not long enough for te engine to cool off.
I have big blister in the back of my left hand from getting the bottom bolt out.
I have big blister in the back of my left hand from getting the bottom bolt out.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post