AnthonyTL-S

Whats up guys.
so i've been about 3 weeks in researching and i finally have to admit, "i need help"
My is an 07 type S and i love her lol. i have a J-pipe (only mod)

My problem is the car lost balls... when i Accelerate for a dead stop and WOT, car wont do much at all till 2.5K I try to figure out things myself but this one i really cant, sadly. Tranny don't slip at all so i dont think its a pressure switch. (guessing)
i have 68,XXX and i tune her up myself. i really dont wanna take her to the dealers cause then i gotta put my stock j pipe back on.

If anyone has a link for me ill do the rest. thank you for your time

dannyz

I understand why you might have doubts about using dealer service, buy why would you ever have to put your stock j-pipe back on to visit a dealer? Your car is well out of warranty.

If it's really running that poorly, it might be wisest to simply pay a good Acura mechanic for a diagnostic. Then you could decide what to do from there--let them fix it, or do it yourself.

You wrote that you tune up the car up yourself--what does that mean? There's no real "tuneup" for this car until 105K (just filters and fluid changes). Have you changed something? Did you install non-OEM plugs in it? (this can be a problem).

Since you didn't mention it, I assume it's not thrown any codes. More info on the problem would be helpful, but I'd get a diagnostic.

truonghthe

OP probably has one of those extended warranty, just take it to the dealer and pay them $100 and they will tell you what wrong with the car.

DaeHanMeenGuk

maybe reset ecu for better response? just a suggestion, not a solution.

vietxquangstah

iTrader: (7)

Probably because the 3.2 and 3.5 5AT really don't have much low end torque

Will Y.

Try an ECU reset first and see if that resolves your car's issues.

Otherwise, it might be the "Accelerator Pedal Position sensor" i.e. APP sensor going bad-- sometimes they start to go bad without throwing a code, although most eventually throw a code.

A few members have also adjusted the APP sensor cable and found that resolved their cars' issues.

See https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/diy-app-sensor-730958/ for both APP procedures and photos.

LGcbp8

With only the little info you said in your post I'd vote this too ^.

I hate cars

No, they will either say if there's no codes there's nothing wrong or they will guess and blindly replace parts at your expense.

pohljm

has the gas mileage changed with this decrease in performance?

BukvaMan

EGR Valve

I hate cars

I actually went and adjusted the cable real quick a few minutes ago even though I have no problems in that area. Before I adjusted anything I removed the cover and had the fiancée floor it to make sure it hits the full throttle stop which it did so no performance to be gained but that's ok. At first I adjusted it to where when I let off the cam it would hit the stop but I could also hear it tug at the pedal so I backed it off a little from there and tried the stops with the pedal. Adjusting too far will not let it return to idle and can cause the cable to stretch out again quickly. I tried it out around the block real quick and it reminded me of when the car was new. It's nothing I've notice a change in since it happened gradually over 118,000 miles but as soon as I drove it I remembered what it felt like when it was brand new. It's a very slight change, the pedal has less slop so it feels slightly more responsive.

I tightened the cable maybe 3 or 4 threads (turns). Not a whole lot of stretch for the age and mileage but it also doesn't have to deal with the spring tension of a cable throttle (or so it feels).

Not a lot to gain but you can have the pedal feel back to new in about 2 minutes.

I hate cars

How is your ongoing problem? I found a couple new things. EGR blockoff has really helped hot weather power especially low end torque.

I found an electrical problem as well causing low charging voltage. You may check it since our cars are so similar. The connection at the fusebox, the short wire that goes from the fusebox to the battery was getting very hot. Specifically the factory crimp at the fusebox. In only a minute or two of runtime it was hot enough to burn me. Fixing it brought charging voltage back to 13.8-13.9v at the batt. That has helped as well, especially with a less labored idle where its hard to tell if its running at a red light when the AC is off.

Did the 02s fix it for good?

BukvaMan

They are very similar ! Mine is also an 05 AT NBP, i bet you the VIN numbers match very close.

Ive made some good progress lately. When i replaced those 02 sensors they made such a big difference where I really thought the problem was fixed completely but once you get past the initial impression you start noticing things again. What always bothered me was that i didn't have no acceleration under 2000rpm and the car slowed itself down much faster then anything that i drove. In the mean time I read somewhere if the car is bogging down under 2000 rpm that is usually and EGR problem. Even though i inspected the EGR couple of times I never saw anything wrong with it. But when i read that statement I started thinking that my EGR always looked to clean to be fully functional. Especially after almost 8 years of ownership, every time i would take it off the gasket would look like brand new and it wasn't really dirty either. So I went to advanceautoparts and picked up a new one, replaced it and noticed biggest change ever . Even my wife noticed it so go figure. The acceleration was back under 2000rpm and the engine wasn't braking or holding back like it used to. I was basically going on a slight uphill at 1500-1700 rpm without any problem, that was never possible before. Highway driving was always an issue at around 50-60 mph where the engine would just hold back and it was very hard the keep up the speed. Pretty much anything that was causing issues was under 2000 rpm or very little above it. Now none of it is present and the car is coasting so effortlessly. It is such a big difference that i am going to put that EGR into a frame and hang it on a wall. It was my Kryptonite for all these years.


I still have one more issue with the car that i am trying to fix. Its my idle and it sputters and i have vibrations thru out the whole cabin. Its much worse with the AC on and also when i change gears sometimes the RPM needle dips down very low and almost stalls. Happens mostly while going into reverse. The vibrations are the most apparent when in Reverse with the AC on. The funny thing is that they are not consistant, even though the Rpm's stay steady afterward there is still an additional rumble that i feel during those constant vibrations.
I started thinking that i could possibly have a vacuum leak where i put the p2r manifold gasket. I've seen some guys having problems where the gasket would melt and cause a leak. While taking of the manifold I found out the bolts were very loose and the gasket didn't look to good either. So replaced both manifold covers with the OEM ones and indeed I had a leak. Either from those loose bolts or the gasket itself. The vibration problem still persists though but my exhaust tone has changed to da deeper one indicating that i did have a leak.

All motor mounts are changed lately so its not them. Im leaning toward a weak ignition coil. The engine feels really rough but there are no codes as usual.

Another reason i feel it could be a coil is because all this gets worse when the engine gets hot.


Sorry about the long thread

TurboGSR96

I have a vibration too that goes throughout the whole interior at idle in D with the brakes on, and gets worse with the AC on... I posted a question about it with no responses, its kind of annoying me, I lived with it in my Integra due to solid mounts but this isnt something I want in my daily.

I am starting to wonder if I have a vacuum leak too, just installed an Outlaw Eng. spacer kit when I had a valve adj. done and a new upper tranny mount and the car did not do this at all prior to the work being done.

In for answers lol

I hate cars

That's great. It seems like everything that works for you works for me too. I hear you about the initial impressions wearing off. I've thought mine was solved 3 different times but as the new improvement wears off you start noticing things.

My rough idle (not a misfire) as if the engine was bogging down all the time at idle was fixed by re-crimping the electrical connector at the fuse box. I'm pretty sure the alternator was at full output 100% of the time and at full output it will draw about 3hp which is plenty to make the engine idle a little rougher.

If you get the chance, I would love to know if your fuse box to battery connector gets hot like mine did. This is one of the two that go into the side of the fuse box, this is the one toward the front of the car. I had to wait till the engine was cold and then start it up and let it run for a couple minutes and usually by then the connector was hot enough to burn skin at the crimp. By cleaning every electrical connection between the alt, battery, and fuse box and fixing the crimp, it idles so smooth that I occasionally look down at the tach to see if the engine is running. Before it was always labored as if something was dragging it down. My keyfob memory settings also started working again. Could be coincidence or just the fact that the battery was unplugged but I'm happy with it.

The AC used to drag mine down bad, not you can hardly tell when the compressor kicks in. I don't think it was the actual compressor dragging it down, I think it was when the fan kicked on with the compressor.

I think this bad factory crimp is why the new fully charged battery made an initial difference. I haven't had any seriously hot weather but on an 87 degree day, no trace of surging.

The one place ours differs is I blocked my EGR off so I have no flow at all and it sounds like yours had no flow and by replacing the valve it now has flow. Unless of course yours was flowing so much that with additional heat and flow the carbon just didn't stick to it as much. Not likely though.


Almost forgot, mine is an '06 but I bought it in Dec of '05 so they could very well be close together.

AnthonyTL-S

tunes as in basic maintenance (oil change, air filter) nothing crazy. Yes, i do have the extended warranty to 2016 120k miles. Just now my car sent a message for (B1 service due soon)

AnthonyTL-S

yes was getting 17 city but now 14. Do have a little of a heavy foot when driving. love the way she sounds lol

I hate cars

Watch your average mph. This is the only accurate way to compare mpg and see changes. If your average mph goes down your mpg will go down too. I'm getting 11mpg right now but that's fine because my average mph is only 9 thanks to the bastard traffic engineers making sure you stop at every single light for an entire cycle.

BukvaMan

I purchased mine in late November but its an 05. I did check those connections tonight after driving the car for about 5 minutes and the screws felt just warm really. Im going to take a look at it a little better tomorrow while the car is cold and see if there is any difference. Today i didn't use the AC much so the idle never dipped and the engine was pretty smooth. As soon as i turn on the AC the vibrations start. Also as you mentioned the idle dips when the compresor kicks in and the fans come on. Or even sometimes when backing out and turning the wheel, i guess any heavy load on the engine will do it.

I dont know if im wrong in suspecting a weak coil but a while ago when I took of the manifold to install the p2r gasket I noticed something funny on one of the cylinder intake ports. It was so clean as if it just came of off the shelf. The others in comparison had a lot of brownish buildup. Yesterday when i replaced the manifold gaskets for the OEM ones i saw the same thing again. I mean i know only air rushes trough there but why would it be so clean... Its the one closest to the left passenger side headlight.


The same thing is on the runner side....

I hate cars

These cars always do that to the one runner. There must be less EGR flow to that cylinder.

Koreandude007

My was also an 07 Type S I also lost acceleration well kind of. as soon as I was driving up my drive way. the car would still accelerate but I was going very slow "like how a turtle walks very slow", my car was doing that and it threw out one or two codes. as soon as I got into the garage, I shut of the car for a minute and started it back up and everything was fine. I called the dealer and give him the codes and he said that it was the acceleration pedal sensor that went out.

TVL65

Welcome to the "All show, no go club" My 07' TLS does the same. I've given up on it. Years back it would spin the tires from a dead stop with the VSA off, I mean really roast the tires & take off. Now? there is no power up until about 3,000Rpm's. I've reset the ECU a million times, used numerous fuel system cleaners, dealer couldn't find anything wrong & no codes. My wife's 2005 civic is faster off the line then my TLS.

BukvaMan

I've been really making progress lately. In my case its a combination of things. The latest one which I am really happy to report is the ignition coil. Since there was never a code for it I was just assuming that one or more have a weak output. They are very pricey as you all know so i bought one and started checking one by one. The most thing i was concentrating on was the idle and I was looking to see if it would smooth out. Honestly i think my idle is fine since i replaced the manifold gasket the other day and it just took some time to recalibrate... So my rpms dont sputter anymore but it still shakes in gear and AC on. None of it has anything to do with the coils though. Now the good news! I went trough the first five and didnt notice any change. When i was at the last one I alredy gave up on the hope that it would fix anything. So I took out the last one and saw some brown buildup inside it, started having some hope again . Replaced it with a new one, turned on the car and no change. Now Im thinking - I'll leave it like that, drive the car for some time and switch it again if i dont notice any change. But when I took it for a drive, to my surprise the car felt smoother in accelaration and definitevly more torque!! Drove it for more then half hour just to prove to myself that its not just in my head.

So that slight brownish build up had something to do with it. Im thinking to replace all of them now to see if it would make even more difference.

So far so good. That slight shake could be a transmission mount since the rubber on the upper one is torn.

BukvaMan

I just like to confirm once again. I drove the car today around town and the highway and I believe me I wasn't crazy yesterday at all. The new ignition coil made so much difference i cant believe it. I dont think that car ever ran this strong as far as I can remember. The third gear pulls almost as strong as my second used to be, it was that bad. Im not kidding you.

I am gonna replace all of them just to be sure im not missing on any potential gain.

For anyone who thinks they have a problem with power loss. Check your EGR, Ignition coils and spark plugs. I never had any codes for it but it made a really huge difference!