Sutitan

I would have never noticed this had it not been for my friend riding in my passenger side noting how loud the music was on my side. We played with the balance, comparing the front driver to front passenger side, and we noticed that no sound was coming from the speaker on the door.

Im assuming its a blown speaker, but my friend doubted it since he said we he blew a speaker on his old car. it made a large pop, which he thought was a blown tire.

Now I was wondering if it is possibly just a fuse, or maybe the entire speaker has just crapped out. Any insight is appreciated.

dbqkqh

Pry open the passenger panel carefully and inspect the speaker for any cracks on the dome.

I'm thinking it is a fuse because even if it was blown, it would produce a very irritable sound.

Off Topic: Is that a lotus?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

staying off topic....if it looks like a lotus, has the color of a lotus, then it must be a ........

Sutitan

Im going to try take a look at it on a free weekend. Does anyone have a fuse diagram for the TL? Are the speakers even fused?

Off topic: Yes, its an Exige

jda123

The speakers are not fused individually.

The door panel takes a little bit more than prying to get off... there are some screws too. It is easy, but take your time and have a trim tool or other suitable tool to pop the clips off.

Once you get it off, test the connector with a DMM and see if you have wattage, if so, then the speaker is bad. If not, then trace the wires back to the amp and work from there.

FWIW, I had my passenger tweeter go out and I had to replace it with an aftermarket one.

Sutitan

Assuming my speaker did go out, what would be a suitable replacement. Im not looking for anything over the top. just something equally comparable to the OEM one

as for as measuring with a DMM, wouldn't it be easier to measure resistance? If its blown it would just read as a open circuit. Also, you recommended wattage, which im not sure if multimeters are capable of (current and voltage must be measured in series and parrallel respectively)? Did you mean current to test for an open circuit?

jda123

Open would be fine on the speaker. So would voltage from the amp.

My bad. I have a meter (watt meter with the basic DMM functions) that will measure DC wattage accurately up to about 4K. I have done this before, my apologies.

I am not sure what a suitable bolt-on replacement is for our cars. I know that the door takes 6.5s, but I haven't seen many that fit. Maybe some Boston S65? I have seen some posts about infinity reference, so maybe those bolt up.

Sutitan

I figured something was different. I have a crappy little 3 dollar multimeter (but it doesnt everything ive needed it to. so far )

im still confused why an open circuit would be fine. an open circuit means that no current would be flowing through the speaker. you seem correct in that there needs to be wattage, but there cant be in an open (Only voltage, no current)

sorry if im having a diffcult time understanding why, but my bit of background in electronics is telling me otherwise. Ive just never really worked with speakers.

Sutitan

Started lurking around in the Audio area, where i found a sticky, linking me to this: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-audio-bluetooth-electronics-navigation-94/els-stock-speaker-specs-size-imped-depth-556521/

Front Door & Rear Speakers
------------------------
Size: 6 1/4"
Impedance: 2 ohms
Rating: 20W
Mounting depth: 2 1/8"

ive looked on ebay, and they have oem ones for every gen but the 3rd :P guess ill have to wait and test to see if its actually the speaker

jda123

I guess that I was thinking that to test for an open on the speaker would be a fine way of testing it. If it is open, then it is likely bad. I have seen speakers that are not open that still don't work.

When I was talking about checking for voltage, I meant from the connector in the door when the radio is on.

It looks like most places are recommending 5.25 replacement speakers for sure fitment.