I replaced my rear rotors and pads today and had a tough time removing the driver side rotor due to the parking brake drums sticking. I figured out that this is what was causing the rubbing/scrapping sound I had been hearing and that it was not my rear pad indicator. My pads and rotors showed some major wear anway so I went ahead with the job.
Before installing the new rotors, I adjusted the parking brake adjustment as much as I could by cranking it all the way in. Everything seemed to move freely after reinstalling everything but after a minute or two of driving the scrapping sound was back. What is causing this? Is it common for them to get hung up and rub? The drums, springs, etc. looked to be in good shape, but the car does have 100k on it and I'm sure all of the PB components are original. TIA

 

to adjust the park brake shoes: you spray clean and lube the star wheel -threaded rod adjuster- then adjust it in slightly- not all the way- why bother?!
Put the rotor on and there should be no drag as you spin the rotor- the brake pads MUST be removed fro this so you can hear and feel the park brakes.
Click at a time and feel the drag on the rotor- when it goes from dragging to stopped- back off 6 clicks- that should be just right--
assuming- if you have handbrake, not footbrake to active the park brakes- its been left alone or loosened before the job

 

I did all of the above and everything was moving freely up until the test drive. the constant dragging sound was present after a couple stops. I'm wondering if the hardware for the PB are bad, especially the springs. i guess I'll tear into again this weekend and inspect.

 

if you want to; could always snap a few pics and maybe we'll catch seomthing that you missed

 

the park brake pads are rarely replaced- never heard of a hardware problem
You know,- what may have oocured, was if you turned the adjuster all the way in- thats too loose - its NOT an automatic adjuster like that- it may take up a little adjustment - but not that much- its a manual setting of the clearance for them

Reset per directions- remember regular brake pads must be removed to adjust park brakes
If you have it all apart- adjust before you put the brackets on- you can test if the rotor slides off the park shoes and when it gets tight- check for out of roundness condition- see how the parts fit and be able to HEAR whats going on

 

I pretty much did this... Before installing the brackets, I adjusted the shoes as far in as possible and placed the "new" rotors and there was no rubbing... the rotor turned freely. When I backed the adjusting screw just one turn, the rotor would not go on easily. So I turned it all the way in and reinstalled everything and the wheels moved freely with no rubbing prior to dropping the car. Then, during the 10min test drive, the annoying sound was back. I didn't have time this weekend to reinspect, will try to take a look this week.

 

what in your method has anything to do with the actual adjustment given to you by the book and members
You have no tension at all on the park brake system!!!! suprised if it didnt fall apart!!!

It may drag as you try to remove the rotor-the inner surface not being machined dead flat or it has a lip or the way it fits on the pads or whatever-
they are not precise ground perfect since its just the park brakes! you are supposed to rotate it like normal useage and listen and feel for drag- then go 1 tiny click- check it another another
There is something wrong if 1 click made it tight tight
Pull apart and fix- or have a shop do it for you- they will charge 1.5 hours

 

geez... I replaced the rotors, pads, and adjusted the Parking brake per the FSM procedure. This is why I'm stumped. Even with it adjusted all the way in, the springs and all parts are still very tight. I will remove the caliper and pads and go from there. Maybe it's not the parking shoes and I have a caliper hanging???