Hey everyone, I got a 2005 tl 6mt. Got about 10k miles on a swapped engine. Did spark plugs, timing belt, water pump and tensioner while the engine was out. So roughly 10k trouble free miles since. Yesterday I was driving, the car shuddered and I got a CEL. It was for a p0389. pulled over to get the code. Code went away at next startup, car drove fine. Today, the car shuddered again but this time stalled out and didn't continue running like yesterday. Code is for p0340. Now the car won't start. Help me.

 

Check your connections. P0340 is for no signal from crank sensor. Crank sensor has 3 pin connector.
- Yellow black - should have battery voltage when key ON
- Yellow should have 5V when disconnected from the sensor (that is what feeds info into the ECM)
- Brown/yellow should be ground. Schematic tells me that ground is on "left side of engine" Test ground with test lights (like 1A of current) to the battery terminal.

P0389 is for crankshaft position sensor.
The only thing that they share are power and ground. That lets me believe one of those is your problem. Power (yellow black) is feed through "PGM-FI main relay 1". But I would check that ground, as it's common with both sensors and most likely was touched when changing the motor.
That's your suspect ground location:


There's a part of throttle body one the picture, so it should be easy to find. Evap service port and evap purge valve are also a nice clues.

 

The ground looks perfectly fine

 

 

You sure that it's good?

Then go back to testing directly at the sensor. Must be a reason why it's not working. Check out that relay, but it's unusual for relays to go bad while latched (to cause car to stall).

 

I popped a timing belt cover off and checked to see if the belt moves while I crank the engine over and it doesn't. I seriously doubt my belt is broken since it only has at most 10k miles on it. What else could cause a car to act as if it has a broken timing belt? Thanks

 

Which cover?

Engine cranks, crank pulley moves, right? Either belt is broken, or key on crank sprocket is missing. But since you were driving it for 10k I would suspect broken belt.

You didn't happen to use one of those "original" $100 Honda ebay timing belt kits?

 

Engine cranks but nothing moves. Not the belt or the crank pulley. It has a $50 aftermarket belt. Think it was a dayco, I forgot the brand.

 

How can engine crank, but crank pulley not move? Either starter is not engaging the flywheel or your crankshaft is broken in half.

 

If you manually crank the engine using a ratchet and a 19mm socket down below on the crank pulley, and you don't see the timing belt or cams moving up top with top timing covers removed, then the belt has snapped. The other possibility is that the engine jumped time with a failed hydraulic tensioner, some valves are right up against a piston. Pray that the valves aren't bent or it's going to cost you $$$$ to fix.

The only timing belts you should use are OEM or the one from the Aisin kit by Mitsuboshi. I have used both for 100k miles with 0 issue.

 

I stand corrected. I had to see it myself and let someone else crank it. It does move but when cranking it over it sounds almost like a weak battery . Sounds normal the first second then very weak. My tensioner is less than a year old and OEM. The belt cover I took off was the one closest to the front of the car.

 

So the belt doesn't move, crank pulley moves, correct? The most possible explanation is broken belt. Figure out why. Either way it will require taking rest of the covers off.

If something unusual happened post some pictures.

 

Yea, definitely sounds like a broken belt. That is crazy because of how new it is. I will update once I get the rest of the covers off.

 

Stop cranking it at the ignition, you are just doing more damages. Crank it manually by hand, you just need a 1/2" drive ratchet, 1/2" drive extension and a 19mm socket, with the front of the car lifted up on jack stands. If you feel resistance and the engine won't rotate further then something seriously is wrong.

 

Belt snapped

 

Is anything stuck? What are you gonna do?

 

Nothing seems stuck, the crank moves. I'm gonna have to replace the belt and pray for the best.

 

I suggest you don't get another cheaper timing belt and tensioner aftermarket option and go with OEM only if you want it to the trouble-free. The tensioner pulley mechanism + the idler pulley should be still good and you don't need to change those. Might be tricky to set the cams and crank back in time, take your time, stop if you feel resistance.