Oil Drain Plug

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Old May 8, 2013 | 05:59 PM
  #1  
cmptrcrime's Avatar
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Oil Drain Plug

Have oil leak from drain plug. I really dont won't to replace pan right now, I will next time I change oil. I thought I read on a post to use a garden hose washer on bolt? I tried it this morning and it's working. Will the washer stand the heat and last until next oil change? I'm trying this due to the dealer already screwed up the plug on last oil change and rethreaded, so now have a huge bolt that i can't even find in the auto stores, which makes it hard finding a replacement washer......thank you for any suggestions
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Old May 8, 2013 | 06:34 PM
  #2  
cmptrcrime's Avatar
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Forgot to mention I also used teflon tape.
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Old May 8, 2013 | 08:02 PM
  #3  
erdoc48's Avatar
06 Anthracite TL
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Heat wise, I probably wouldn't trust the garden hose washer. I'd rather do a proper fix especially if it comes to oil leaks (meaning replace the pan or helicoil it). I'm assuming your threads in the pan are stripped.

Check http://www.helicoil.in/

Last edited by erdoc48; May 8, 2013 at 08:06 PM.
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Old May 8, 2013 | 08:03 PM
  #4  
dannyz's Avatar
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Using an aluminum crush washer is a standard approach. I suggest you make note the inside diameter of your bolt, then go to an Autozone, or any parts store, and they should be able to find you a common oil plug crush washer that fits. (14 x 1.5 thread is pretty much standard)
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Old May 9, 2013 | 07:00 AM
  #5  
johnny3's Avatar
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Sounds like yours is considerably oversize, that hose washer probably is ok till next oil change but watch it closely for drips, next time you take it out take it to Autozone or Napa & they should have a proper one, if you know a machinist have him make you several out of aluminum, 3 minute job, each one will last thru several oil changes if the bolt face & oil pan bolt face are nice & smooth.
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Old May 9, 2013 | 08:01 AM
  #6  
cmptrcrime's Avatar
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Thank you all for the advise. I already took the drain plug/bolt to Autozone and they didnt carry the size. When they rethreaded the pan it was for a 3/4" bolt. Debated on hilo-coil, but not sure about metal and aluminum mixing together with the heat. Guess I'm gonna bite the bullet and just do it right instead of rigging it and just replace the pan now.......Rockauto here I come!
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Old May 10, 2013 | 03:00 AM
  #7  
dcmodels's Avatar
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Originally Posted by cmptrcrime
... Debated on hilo-coil, but not sure about metal and aluminum mixing together with the heat. ...
Heli-coil has been the industry standard repair for a damaged spark plug threads for 30 or more years, so heat is no problem.

My aluminum Chevy oil pan has been heli-coiled for 10 years. When I used to race bikes (motorcycles), it was common practice to heli-coil commonly removed bolt holes, before they stripped, when the bike was new. Aluminum just wears when the bolts are repeatedly removed.

A heli-coil, properly installed, will never wear-out, and is so strong that generally it will allow the bolt to break/ shear from over-torquing, before the heli-coil will strip out, even in an aluminum case.

I have heard people state that a heli-coil can back-out, but I have never seen that. Heli-coils are stainless steel, and generally will not corrode in aluminum, from electrolocys (sp), when wet.

The heli-coil threads are larger than the hole into which they are threaded, which means they must be compressed and installed with a simple tool. That prevents the coiled threads (the heli-coil) from backing out with removal of the bolt.

There are other brands of thread repair, but heli-coil was the original (at least it was the first one that I heard of).

Last edited by dcmodels; May 10, 2013 at 03:13 AM.
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Old May 10, 2013 | 05:03 AM
  #8  
erdoc48's Avatar
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I have a helicoil repair in my bike's oil pan from about 5 years ago- I use the stock oil drain plug, and it's been leak free since the repair. It beat $300+ for a new oil pan and installation at the time. I think I paid $100 and that was to a MC dealership (which means probably cheaper at an independent shop).
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