Oil Change - Huge Problem
Oil Change - Huge Problem
Hi guys,
Went to my shop for an oil change on Saturday, put my Royal Purple in, the car drove beautifully...
Sunday night, decided to go for a car wash. After the car wash I heard some unusual tapping from the engine, drove back to my garage.
When I came out of the car, the oil was dripping out. Turned the car off. Went straight for the dipstick. It was clean, no sight of oil. All of my oil have leaked out.
In the morning today, put 5 qt of oil, drove back to my shop to give them a piece of the mind. Result = oem (S2000) oil filter was defective. Changed my oil this time to Mobil Extended Synth, I ran out of Royal Purple
Now, here is my issue, the oil warning light NEVER came on, no error lights period... How is this possible if the car was running on almost no oil at all? What gives? An average Joe would of continued driving till the death of the engine.
P.S. The car runs great, engine is behaving as usual. I'm glad I've caught this in time, it pays off to be paranoid
Went to my shop for an oil change on Saturday, put my Royal Purple in, the car drove beautifully...
Sunday night, decided to go for a car wash. After the car wash I heard some unusual tapping from the engine, drove back to my garage.
When I came out of the car, the oil was dripping out. Turned the car off. Went straight for the dipstick. It was clean, no sight of oil. All of my oil have leaked out.
In the morning today, put 5 qt of oil, drove back to my shop to give them a piece of the mind. Result = oem (S2000) oil filter was defective. Changed my oil this time to Mobil Extended Synth, I ran out of Royal Purple

Now, here is my issue, the oil warning light NEVER came on, no error lights period... How is this possible if the car was running on almost no oil at all? What gives? An average Joe would of continued driving till the death of the engine.
P.S. The car runs great, engine is behaving as usual. I'm glad I've caught this in time, it pays off to be paranoid
Don't know about the light. Seems like it *should* have come on at some point. I mean the Oil Pressure had to dropping, if not actually reaching zero. There is a recent post about how to do a check of all the lights and guages. I'll hunt it up and post the quote on how to check them.
I am curious on how the filter failed/was defective. What was the type of defect? How did you determine it was defective?
(Reason I ask is I am running the same filter in the same car, so some natural concern about the possibility of a similar problem.)
I am curious on how the filter failed/was defective. What was the type of defect? How did you determine it was defective?
(Reason I ask is I am running the same filter in the same car, so some natural concern about the possibility of a similar problem.)
Cluster/Guage Diagnostic:
Just if you want to make sure the light actually works (i.e. not burned out/shorted, etc).
Here is a way to test the guages and their lights
Hold trip/reset button
Turn headlights on
Turn ignition switch to ON
Within 5 seconds turn the headlights off, then on, then off
WIthin 5 seconds release the trip/reset button, then push it 3 times
all the lights should blink and the needles sweep.
Hold trip/reset button
Turn headlights on
Turn ignition switch to ON
Within 5 seconds turn the headlights off, then on, then off
WIthin 5 seconds release the trip/reset button, then push it 3 times
all the lights should blink and the needles sweep.
Don't know about the light. Seems like it *should* have come on at some point. I mean the Oil Pressure had to dropping, if not actually reaching zero. There is a recent post about how to do a check of all the lights and guages. I'll hunt it up and post the quote on how to check them.
I am curious on how the filter failed/was defective. What was the type of defect? How did you determine it was defective?
(Reason I ask is I am running the same filter in the same car, so some natural concern about the possibility of a similar problem.)
I am curious on how the filter failed/was defective. What was the type of defect? How did you determine it was defective?
(Reason I ask is I am running the same filter in the same car, so some natural concern about the possibility of a similar problem.)

sample random pic found on google: (not the actual filter)
The leak I'm assuming was at the rubber piece, or the outer edge. It was hard to tell... After I've changed to a new oil filter, the problem went away. I just drove 30 miles to work, everything is fine. I'm just very confused of why the oil light never came up.
Honda - #15400-PCX-004 (S2k)
This filter is better than the crap oem filters they are using now, what changed? The company who makes them, Honda now is using a cheaper inferior product. The S2K oil filter was the only filter that was not changed. And they are wider/bigger than stock.
BearCat became a pro on this oil filter stuff, if he is willing, he will explain for me. Yes, I'm that lazy... I came to work late, so I need to catch on a lot of work.
Trending Topics
If you search threads for S2000 filter you'll get a lot of quality info on them.
Honda - #15400-PCX-004 (S2k)
This filter is better than the crap oem filters they are using now, what changed? The company who makes them, Honda now is using a cheaper inferior product. The S2K oil filter was the only filter that was not changed. And they are wider/bigger than stock.
....
Honda - #15400-PCX-004 (S2k)
This filter is better than the crap oem filters they are using now, what changed? The company who makes them, Honda now is using a cheaper inferior product. The S2K oil filter was the only filter that was not changed. And they are wider/bigger than stock.
....
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...cx-004+plm-a01
From what I've read, the 15400-PCX-004 is the closest OE Honda/Acura filter to the original spec 15400-PLM-A01. Height is the same, but ~1/8" more girth. Overall, a total volume difference of ~8.5% (~ 2 cubic inches).
Technoking, I wonder if your o-ring got damaged/twisted/ripped when installing or when taking off the wrapper.
I remember seeing something in one of the Acura Tech News articles about removing the wrapper from the top/side, not from the bottom. If I find that, I'll post a link.
Since I'm all paranoid now (
), I'll check mine this evening, but am sure it's fine - I'd have a big oil spot in the garage if there was problem. I'll also have a look at my stock of filters for any obvious defect. Thanks for posting.Hopefully you can figure out why your "dummy" light never came on.
94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
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From: New York City | Stuck in Traffic
well i will tell you this much, my oil drain plug was left loose....
my oil light never came on... slow dripped for a few weeks, then i noticed it while trying to take a picture of the atlp jpipe clearance on the oil pan way back when, tell you this much never again has anyone else done my oil change for me
hope this teaches a valuable lesson
there is no such thing as a defective filter if it was properly installed... one of the guys probably dicked around during the oil change
if anything if it were defective, it wouldn't filtrate rofl
my oil light never came on... slow dripped for a few weeks, then i noticed it while trying to take a picture of the atlp jpipe clearance on the oil pan way back when, tell you this much never again has anyone else done my oil change for me
hope this teaches a valuable lesson
there is no such thing as a defective filter if it was properly installed... one of the guys probably dicked around during the oil change
if anything if it were defective, it wouldn't filtrate rofl
^Al, the mechanic, my boy, can rebuilt any car blind folded, so I know it wasn't him, as I'm in the shop with him watching, most of the time I use his shop to do my own things. In the winter, I'm too cold for any labor 
When the car was raised, I did all of the inspecting with the light personally, and then I've removed the cover protection and continued my inspection. Everything was fine. The filter however was soaked on it's edges... New filter, no problem.
In regards to your "no such thing" Nothing in life is 100%

When the car was raised, I did all of the inspecting with the light personally, and then I've removed the cover protection and continued my inspection. Everything was fine. The filter however was soaked on it's edges... New filter, no problem.
In regards to your "no such thing" Nothing in life is 100%
I also read somewhere not to open the filter (plastic wrap) from the hole side because plastic may fall into the filter. And also, I guess to not damage the rubber seal. Good advice.
my K&N comes in a box!
Someone with a utility knife might slice the oring when removing plastic wrap- it might last a day before all the oil is gone.
Next person who stops by the dealer- ask the parts dept what the spec is on the low oil light. 5psi? 2, 0??
What often happens is: the old o-ring gets stuck on the engine and the joke
of a tech doesnt bother to wipe the mounting surface clean to ensure there is nothing there, or look at the old filter to see the o-ring on it
With double stacked its not going to seal for long if at all
You should always wipe down the mounting surface to be safe
Torque spec for drain plug is 29 foot pounds
Someone with a utility knife might slice the oring when removing plastic wrap- it might last a day before all the oil is gone.
Next person who stops by the dealer- ask the parts dept what the spec is on the low oil light. 5psi? 2, 0??
What often happens is: the old o-ring gets stuck on the engine and the joke
of a tech doesnt bother to wipe the mounting surface clean to ensure there is nothing there, or look at the old filter to see the o-ring on it
With double stacked its not going to seal for long if at all
You should always wipe down the mounting surface to be safe
Torque spec for drain plug is 29 foot pounds
If the can did not fail only a few things will cause this, did not take the old seal off, part of the old seal was left behind, did not tighten the new filter sung enough, did not oil the seal before it was installed, there was a cut in the new seal, the mounting boss sealing surface is cracked or gouged.
If the new seal was bad he should have seen it before he put it on when he wet it down with fresh oil. If the boss was cracked or gouged it should have been seen when he wiped it clean
Yes, but it would have not resulted in a loss of 5 qt of oil within 15 mins of driving... This was a big leak, not the usual drip.
I think the freezing temperature aided in this mishap, so after the car wash, something let go, so by the time I pulled up to my garage, I had a nice oil spill on the floor, probably 1-2 qts. And then I was empty.
I'm just glad it's over with. I didn't sleep all night
I think the freezing temperature aided in this mishap, so after the car wash, something let go, so by the time I pulled up to my garage, I had a nice oil spill on the floor, probably 1-2 qts. And then I was empty.
I'm just glad it's over with. I didn't sleep all night
Two questions:
How tight was it when it was taken off?
Did you see the seal after the fact?
Damn, at least what was still in the pan was RP.
Reminds me of when I was young and worked at an independent German repair shop. I had a bad/leaking fuel filter right out of the box, and it was from a quality manufacturer. The owner didn't even believe me when I told him, it was leaking at the body seam.
I believe Fram makes all, or a majority of the Honda oil filters.
Reminds me of when I was young and worked at an independent German repair shop. I had a bad/leaking fuel filter right out of the box, and it was from a quality manufacturer. The owner didn't even believe me when I told him, it was leaking at the body seam.
I believe Fram makes all, or a majority of the Honda oil filters.
Guys, keep in mind that the oil light is a low oil pressure indicator, not a low oil indicator. It is possible to have correct pressure and be low on oil. Trust me, I've done it in a car when I was younger. I had a Toyota Corolla with exactly 1 1/2 quarts of oil and I didn't get a light even though it would do it's self test every time I started to car.
Glad you were able to catch it quickly because when you see the oil light, it is already too late.
Glad you were able to catch it quickly because when you see the oil light, it is already too late.
u might wanna switch to m1-104 mobile 1 oil filters.. they are also the s2k filters, but it fits our cars... i've been using it and it works like a charm. so far so good.
I pair mine up with Royal Purp.
I pair mine up with Royal Purp.
I just can't swallow your car loosing that much oil and nobody noticing a leak when the filter and oil were changed. In 15 minutes 5qt of oil were pumped out........surely someone fucked up either not catching the leak for whatever reason like not letting the engine run long enough, doing a crappy install of the filter or just plain stupidity. Get a new mechanic or do it yourself and let the engine run for at least 1 minute after an oil and filter change. Just my .02cents
It's in the garbage. The inner rubber lip was not tight around edge.
The oil leaking began going crazy after a car wash, I would say the sudden temperature change from hot water to 17F outside could of caused the rubber seal to fail.. But who knows, could be, would be...
I'm glad I've caught the problem. If I didn't, today, I would no longer have an engine while on the day to work.
I'm using his shop next time again, but I'll do the work. I've put in the Mobil 1 Synth Extended 15,000.. so for at least 8-10K miles I don't have to worry about this again.
Tonight I'll sleep well
I'm just trying to understand, if the warning light did not go on, how can average person realize this very vital sign... no oil, no engine.
The oil leaking began going crazy after a car wash, I would say the sudden temperature change from hot water to 17F outside could of caused the rubber seal to fail.. But who knows, could be, would be...
I'm glad I've caught the problem. If I didn't, today, I would no longer have an engine while on the day to work.
I'm using his shop next time again, but I'll do the work. I've put in the Mobil 1 Synth Extended 15,000.. so for at least 8-10K miles I don't have to worry about this again.
Tonight I'll sleep well

I'm just trying to understand, if the warning light did not go on, how can average person realize this very vital sign... no oil, no engine.
If the "The inner rubber lip was not tight around edge" from the get go it would have leaked from the get go. You are talking about a rubber part that gets compressed between two steel faces to make a seal when the filter is tightened. It is either good or its not.
Your mechanic is tap dancing as fast as he can to avoid any comebacks in case your engine fails & its diagnosed to an oil related issue.
On the warning light you can't - what the car needs is an actual pressure gauge.
Some of you guys are fool of it. 
Mechanic, shmechanic, give it up.
Explain to me why the oil light did not go on... obviously, no oil, no pressure... ding ding, light should of been on. If this is Acura's fault...it is a horrible one.

Mechanic, shmechanic, give it up.
Explain to me why the oil light did not go on... obviously, no oil, no pressure... ding ding, light should of been on. If this is Acura's fault...it is a horrible one.
As far as the rest believe whatever you want but maybe this info will help someone else.
The TL light measures pressure not quantity. BMW measure quantity in addition to pressure but they use a yellow light for low quantity & red for low pressure. Thing is with any car as long as the pump is not sucking air you will have pressure even if 4 quarts + are on the ground..
The 15400-PCX-004 (i.e. the S2000) filter is made by Filtech/Toyo Roki.
Mobile M104 is, by all accounts, a suitable filter in terms of quality as well.
The 15400-PLM-A01 was a Filtech filter. This filter was widely used on many Honda/Acura models.
Here is the Parts list for the 2007 TL-S:
15400-PLM-A01 FILTER, OIL (FILTECH TOYO ROKI) 1 2007 TL $7.11 $5.69
15400-PLM-A01
The above part fits the following Model / Year combination(s).
Click on the desired combination to view the corresponding trim related information
Model Year
MDX '03 - '09
RDX '07 - '09
RL '05 - '09
RSX '02 - '06
TL '04 - '08
TSX '04 - '09
15400-PLM-A01
The above part fits the following Model / Year combination(s).
Click on the desired combination to view the corresponding trim related information
Model Year
MDX '03 - '09
RDX '07 - '09
RL '05 - '09
RSX '02 - '06
TL '04 - '08
TSX '04 - '09
Good luck finding the A01 version at your local dealer.
And be careful buying them on Ebay. Read the description carefully - most are "RPL 15400-PLM-004" where the "RPL" means Replacement. From the auciton listings, I can't figure out if they are counterfeit, grey/black market, A02 Versions, 3rd party equivelants, or what. BUT I don't believe they are genuine A01 OE filters.
I'd suggest you check the Oil Filter mounting surface - is it damaged, is there any debris on the surface etc.
I really doubt this is a filter problem - not twice in a row. That leaves the filter mounting surface the next palce to look.
Edit - Also the simple/dumb stuff:
- Is the filter properly tight?
- Are you sure it's leaking from the filter, not the drain plug or elsewhere?
I'm thinking the thread is stripped... I don't know.
The car drives fun, no engine change, no knocking, no thumping...
I just don't get it. It can be fine all day, I drove 60 miles to work and back. No leaking at work, I've checked it like 5 times, came home, everything is fine. Left the car in the garage for a few hours, come back about 2 hours later, and here it is all over again.
The car drives fun, no engine change, no knocking, no thumping...
I just don't get it. It can be fine all day, I drove 60 miles to work and back. No leaking at work, I've checked it like 5 times, came home, everything is fine. Left the car in the garage for a few hours, come back about 2 hours later, and here it is all over again.

