New Type S decelerating problem?
#1
Phmbm12
Thread Starter
New Type S decelerating problem?
I just purchased a Type S and when i drive it on the freeway, it decelerates pretty quick when i let off the gas. Any thoughts?
#2
Here I come!
Sounds like it's not shifting up. Next time it does that, switch it to sport shift and shift up to see if that helps. If not, you may want to check for a stuck brake caliper.
#3
Is this your first car, or was your previous vehicle a pickup truck or something 20+ years old?
Like most every modern car, your TL will cut fuel when you let off the gas and have sufficient speed for the torque converter to lock up (if automatic). This means you're using the engine to pump air, and the pumping losses, among the other inherent losses in a vehicle and engine, are whats decelerating you. If this for some reason is significantly more than usual, something is very wrong with your vehicle. I suspect this is not the case.
If the car is put into neutral, does it coast as expected? Are driving around in a lower gear for some reason? Obviously that would lead to more losses and faster deceleration on fuel cut.
Like most every modern car, your TL will cut fuel when you let off the gas and have sufficient speed for the torque converter to lock up (if automatic). This means you're using the engine to pump air, and the pumping losses, among the other inherent losses in a vehicle and engine, are whats decelerating you. If this for some reason is significantly more than usual, something is very wrong with your vehicle. I suspect this is not the case.
If the car is put into neutral, does it coast as expected? Are driving around in a lower gear for some reason? Obviously that would lead to more losses and faster deceleration on fuel cut.
#4
Phmbm12
Thread Starter
Is this your first car, or was your previous vehicle a pickup truck or something 20+ years old?
Like most every modern car, your TL will cut fuel when you let off the gas and have sufficient speed for the torque converter to lock up (if automatic). This means you're using the engine to pump air, and the pumping losses, among the other inherent losses in a vehicle and engine, are whats decelerating you. If this for some reason is significantly more than usual, something is very wrong with your vehicle. I suspect this is not the case.
If the car is put into neutral, does it coast as expected? Are driving around in a lower gear for some reason? Obviously that would lead to more losses and faster deceleration on fuel cut.
Like most every modern car, your TL will cut fuel when you let off the gas and have sufficient speed for the torque converter to lock up (if automatic). This means you're using the engine to pump air, and the pumping losses, among the other inherent losses in a vehicle and engine, are whats decelerating you. If this for some reason is significantly more than usual, something is very wrong with your vehicle. I suspect this is not the case.
If the car is put into neutral, does it coast as expected? Are driving around in a lower gear for some reason? Obviously that would lead to more losses and faster deceleration on fuel cut.
#6
Phmbm12
Thread Starter
Trending Topics
#8
Sounds like you have a brake sticking, and its probably sticking enough that one wheel would be dramatically hotter after a longer drive. Next time you drive the car 15+ minutes at moderate speed, after you stop, go around and feel the temp of the center portion of the wheel. If one is way different, or the two rears are way hotter, you know what brakes are sticking. If its as bad as you say, it should be obvious. If its not, jack the car up and spin each wheel by hand. Might as well try to shake it left to right and up and down to check for play there while you're at it.
The wheels will drag a little bit on the brakes, so you might notice some light rubbing when you spin the wheel. But it should spin fairly free. I'd guess one wheel has a seized caliper, and spinning by hand should be obvious which one it is. It could be stuck slides on the rears, a piston thats seized, or something screwy with the hand brake. Really not a big deal if thats all it is. A type s should have Brembo brakes up front, which have opposed pistons, so they don't need slides which stick all the time. It's probably unlikely its a problem with those. Although, you really should be able to feel what brake is sticking based on how the car drives, especially in low traction conditions like cornering in the rain.
My method for 'fixing' sticky brakes involves traveling at high speed and standing on the pedal repeatedly. Sometimes it works, but its not exactly a permanent solution.
The wheels will drag a little bit on the brakes, so you might notice some light rubbing when you spin the wheel. But it should spin fairly free. I'd guess one wheel has a seized caliper, and spinning by hand should be obvious which one it is. It could be stuck slides on the rears, a piston thats seized, or something screwy with the hand brake. Really not a big deal if thats all it is. A type s should have Brembo brakes up front, which have opposed pistons, so they don't need slides which stick all the time. It's probably unlikely its a problem with those. Although, you really should be able to feel what brake is sticking based on how the car drives, especially in low traction conditions like cornering in the rain.
My method for 'fixing' sticky brakes involves traveling at high speed and standing on the pedal repeatedly. Sometimes it works, but its not exactly a permanent solution.
The following users liked this post:
erg69 (04-10-2015)
#9
Instructor
^^ Be careful touching and only touch the Acura symbol of the wheel not the rotor. A stuck caliper ( fairly common on our cars ) will make the rotor extremely hot.
#10
The logo portion is plastic, the wheel is metal and acts as a heat sink for the rotor. The wheel itself shouldn't get much past very hot even with a stuck caliper. The logo will give you some indication of the rotor and wheel temp, but its not the best way to go, especially after a shorter drive.
I might give humanity too much credit, however touching the brake rotor immediately after driving when a suck caliper is suspected would be really dumb. You probably shouldn't do that. If it gets hot enough, you'd probably feel heat radiating off it before you touched it anyways.
I might give humanity too much credit, however touching the brake rotor immediately after driving when a suck caliper is suspected would be really dumb. You probably shouldn't do that. If it gets hot enough, you'd probably feel heat radiating off it before you touched it anyways.
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