New Type S decelerating problem?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-06-2015, 09:11 PM
  #1  
Phmbm12
Thread Starter
 
Phambam12's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: West Valley City, UT
Age: 34
Posts: 740
Received 26 Likes on 18 Posts
New Type S decelerating problem?

I just purchased a Type S and when i drive it on the freeway, it decelerates pretty quick when i let off the gas. Any thoughts?
Old 04-07-2015, 08:18 AM
  #2  
Here I come!
 
Houston's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: H-Town,TX.
Posts: 383
Received 62 Likes on 41 Posts
Sounds like it's not shifting up. Next time it does that, switch it to sport shift and shift up to see if that helps. If not, you may want to check for a stuck brake caliper.
Old 04-07-2015, 08:26 AM
  #3  
Pro
 
ZOMGVTEK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 598
Likes: 0
Received 96 Likes on 85 Posts
Is this your first car, or was your previous vehicle a pickup truck or something 20+ years old?

Like most every modern car, your TL will cut fuel when you let off the gas and have sufficient speed for the torque converter to lock up (if automatic). This means you're using the engine to pump air, and the pumping losses, among the other inherent losses in a vehicle and engine, are whats decelerating you. If this for some reason is significantly more than usual, something is very wrong with your vehicle. I suspect this is not the case.

If the car is put into neutral, does it coast as expected? Are driving around in a lower gear for some reason? Obviously that would lead to more losses and faster deceleration on fuel cut.
Old 04-07-2015, 12:37 PM
  #4  
Phmbm12
Thread Starter
 
Phambam12's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: West Valley City, UT
Age: 34
Posts: 740
Received 26 Likes on 18 Posts
Originally Posted by ZOMGVTEK
Is this your first car, or was your previous vehicle a pickup truck or something 20+ years old?

Like most every modern car, your TL will cut fuel when you let off the gas and have sufficient speed for the torque converter to lock up (if automatic). This means you're using the engine to pump air, and the pumping losses, among the other inherent losses in a vehicle and engine, are whats decelerating you. If this for some reason is significantly more than usual, something is very wrong with your vehicle. I suspect this is not the case.

If the car is put into neutral, does it coast as expected? Are driving around in a lower gear for some reason? Obviously that would lead to more losses and faster deceleration on fuel cut.
threw it into neutral, still decelerating at a very high rate. Feels like i'm driving with the ebrake on.
Old 04-07-2015, 01:24 PM
  #5  
Registered Bunny
 
polobunny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Montreal
Age: 36
Posts: 8,307
Received 1,073 Likes on 892 Posts
Originally Posted by Phambam12
threw it into neutral, still decelerating at a very high rate. Feels like i'm driving with the ebrake on.
Then inspect for stuck brake caliper or stuck ebrake. Does it pull on one side?

If the ebrake feels loose, like too easy to pull up it might be messed up too.
Old 04-07-2015, 02:11 PM
  #6  
Phmbm12
Thread Starter
 
Phambam12's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: West Valley City, UT
Age: 34
Posts: 740
Received 26 Likes on 18 Posts
Originally Posted by polobunny
Then inspect for stuck brake caliper or stuck ebrake. Does it pull on one side?

If the ebrake feels loose, like too easy to pull up it might be messed up too.
How do i do that? (total noob when it comes to anything dealing with brakes)
Old 04-07-2015, 05:07 PM
  #7  
runnin a little boost
iTrader: (3)
 
Hi speed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,227
Received 256 Likes on 208 Posts
Jack up the rear of the car and spin each wheel by hand to see if they spin freely.
Old 04-10-2015, 08:59 AM
  #8  
Pro
 
ZOMGVTEK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 598
Likes: 0
Received 96 Likes on 85 Posts
Sounds like you have a brake sticking, and its probably sticking enough that one wheel would be dramatically hotter after a longer drive. Next time you drive the car 15+ minutes at moderate speed, after you stop, go around and feel the temp of the center portion of the wheel. If one is way different, or the two rears are way hotter, you know what brakes are sticking. If its as bad as you say, it should be obvious. If its not, jack the car up and spin each wheel by hand. Might as well try to shake it left to right and up and down to check for play there while you're at it.

The wheels will drag a little bit on the brakes, so you might notice some light rubbing when you spin the wheel. But it should spin fairly free. I'd guess one wheel has a seized caliper, and spinning by hand should be obvious which one it is. It could be stuck slides on the rears, a piston thats seized, or something screwy with the hand brake. Really not a big deal if thats all it is. A type s should have Brembo brakes up front, which have opposed pistons, so they don't need slides which stick all the time. It's probably unlikely its a problem with those. Although, you really should be able to feel what brake is sticking based on how the car drives, especially in low traction conditions like cornering in the rain.

My method for 'fixing' sticky brakes involves traveling at high speed and standing on the pedal repeatedly. Sometimes it works, but its not exactly a permanent solution.
The following users liked this post:
erg69 (04-10-2015)
Old 04-10-2015, 09:01 AM
  #9  
Instructor
 
erg69's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Shawnee KS
Posts: 198
Received 39 Likes on 35 Posts
^^ Be careful touching and only touch the Acura symbol of the wheel not the rotor. A stuck caliper ( fairly common on our cars ) will make the rotor extremely hot.
Old 04-10-2015, 09:08 AM
  #10  
Pro
 
ZOMGVTEK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 598
Likes: 0
Received 96 Likes on 85 Posts
The logo portion is plastic, the wheel is metal and acts as a heat sink for the rotor. The wheel itself shouldn't get much past very hot even with a stuck caliper. The logo will give you some indication of the rotor and wheel temp, but its not the best way to go, especially after a shorter drive.

I might give humanity too much credit, however touching the brake rotor immediately after driving when a suck caliper is suspected would be really dumb. You probably shouldn't do that. If it gets hot enough, you'd probably feel heat radiating off it before you touched it anyways.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Yumcha
Automotive News
9
02-25-2020 09:57 AM
Billu99tl
3G TL Problems & Fixes
1
09-13-2015 11:30 AM
brandnewcolony
3G TL (2004-2008)
53
09-12-2015 10:39 AM



Quick Reply: New Type S decelerating problem?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:59 PM.