New clutch + fly wheel problem

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Old 05-05-2013 | 12:53 PM
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punky's Avatar
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New clutch + fly wheel problem

Here is a little bit of background. The car is a 07 TL S 6speed, with about 130km. Previous owner must've abused the clutch pretty badly that it recently started slipping. So I decided to get new clutch and flywheel installed. I got the car back last week and has been driving it for about 500km since. There's two problems that's doesn't seem right for new clutch. First problem, shifting gears feels like I'm shifting in a sandbox. I think this one can be fixed by getting GM synchromesh. Second, the friction point is very 'loose' and very unpredictable making acceleration from stop extremely irratating. Normally you should be able to ease the clutch until you hit the friction point and the car should move slowly forward, but if release the clutch until the friction point the car would vibrate like I was going to stall, then I'm forced to either back out the clutch or give some gas. This is worse when I'm on a hill and it makes driving the car so uncomfortable. Talked to the mechanic and he said he did not adjust the pedal play or anything so it shouldn't feel any different. Any advice on how I should troubleshoot this?

Thanks,
Punky
Old 05-07-2013 | 11:02 PM
  #2  
dannyz's Avatar
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From: KC USA
This is wrong. Take it back to the place that just replaced your clutch and flywheel, and demand that they fix it right. If it's vibrating when engaging (it should be smooth), there could be a contaminant on the new pressure plate, or something worse (throw out bearing) with the install.

Your gearbox shifting feel should be the same as when you took it in--if it's worse, then they screwed something else up there too.

I suggest getting it back in there before they tell you it's your fault. Good luck.
Old 05-08-2013 | 12:21 AM
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gwiffer's Avatar
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Did you use OEM parts? The self-adjusting mechanism needs to be set properly before installation. It sounds like the clutch is partially engaged.
Old 05-09-2013 | 09:18 PM
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Marsaloni's Avatar
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From the research I've done on replacing my 04 6MT cluth/flywheel I would think the mechanic did not re adjust the clutch pedal like required and the clutch is possible engaging to early, or always lightly engaged. If the system is compensating for a worn clutch and then a new clutch is put in without adjusting that system you will have issues.

So if we assume the clutch is always lightly engaged:

- Explains "sandbox" shifting feeling as it would be harder to change gears
- Explains wanting to stall as depressing clutch as it is already lightly engaged

AND you said the mechanic actually said he did not "adjust the pedal play" which means he obviously did not do what was needed.

I feel this is the most plausible culprit.
Old 05-20-2013 | 06:25 PM
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punky's Avatar
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Thanks guys for the response. After a lot of research i narrowed I down to one of two things. Rear engine mount or the pressure plate adjustment. I called around and not one transmission shop is aware of the pressure adjustment tool. I figured the rear engine mount was easier to do anyway so I decided to give that a shot. It was a painful job but after I was done I was happy to say that complete fixed the problem. As for the shifting issue synchromesh did the job again. So everything is solved.
Old 05-21-2013 | 12:14 AM
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For future reference here are the symptoms. Vibration/shake during take off, worsen if on incline or AC is on. When shifting the car feels like its being pushed forward. All seems like clutch issues, but it was caused by the rear mount
Old 05-22-2013 | 01:46 PM
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May I ask how you were able to change out the rear mount.

I've been wanting to change mine but I just can't see any way to fish it out.
Unless the cowel must be removed to get better access?

Thank you
Old 05-24-2013 | 08:32 AM
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Follow the instruction on this page:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...=683990&page=2

Basically remove your struts, unscrews some bolts holding the wiring harness, and fish it out on the driver side. When you're fishing it out make sure you remove the bolt holding the wiring harness, and push it aside. Get a second person to help you have hoses and cables as you're pulling it out. It looks like there's a lot to fish it through, but it actually comes out quite easily with a second person's help. Prepare to get tons of cuts and scrapes though.
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