I took my 2007 TL-S to my local dealership. It has 36,000 miles on it. Since I bought it from this dealership my first State Inspection was complimentary. I live in Pennsylvania.

It failed! I was told it needed new front rotors, new front pads and new rear pads. They offered to fix all these brake issues for about $1100. I declined having the knowledge and tools to do it myself.

I bought the proper parts and went to work. All parts looked fine to me. The front pads had plenty of meat on them, about 1/2 thickness compared to the ones I installed and the rear pads were worn but had a decent amount of pad left. I can't find any markings on the rotors designating minimum thickness.

I took the car back after my repairs and they passed it for no additional charge.

I spoke to the service manager and told him my findings. He asked me what I was implying. I told him I was implying nothing just giving him my findings. He said "that's a serious allegation". I repeated that there was no allegation I was just making aware of what I thought was a disturbing finding. He asked for an opportunity to examine the parts I replaced.

So does anyone have hard numbers for minimum rotor thickness for a 2007 TL-S and the minimum pad thickness necessary to pass PA State Inspection?

I don't want to start a big deal if I'm out of line.

Thank you for any help.

 

There were just trying to make money off you, im glad they inspected it afterward for no extra charge. It seems that you avoided conformation with the service manager.. my question is why? its seems like you were right

 

They are not off the hook. I will start a formal complaint to Acura but I want to check the actual specifications before I take my experience to the next level.

That is why I need actual facts. My visual inspection is not really valid until I can back it up with real numbers.

BTW when any shop does a State Inspection in PA they are required to reinspect for no charge if the needed repairs are done within 10 days.

 

DANG over 1 sousand?!

rotors from the dealer are no more than 250 for BOTH fronts. Pads are like 300. the rear set of pads and labor definitely arent the remaining 550.

I did my front brake job with rotors and pads for just under 300. I used Autozone cmax pads which were 65 bucks.

Manual scans (from an 04, but the brakes on the 6MT are identical to the TL-S, so you want to note the M/T measurements.)

 

Fronts should be the same as the '04-'06 M/T cars, and rears all '04-'08:

Measure the rotor 3/8" in from outer edge at 8 points and replace if less than the max refinishing limit.
Front Rotor:Max Refinishing Limit .91"
Rotor Runout: Service Limit .004"

Front & Rear Pads: Service Limit .06"

 

As an Acura Technician I am just going to validate a few things.

As far as pay goes to the Technicians to cut rotors and do pads pay us 2.3 HR labor time. To do pads with new rotors pay us 1.3 HR. For those like myself who are on Flat rate the more time the better, however it is required to measure the rotors, you always want to make sure they are in spec. Like I said it pays more to cut, a lot of guys in dealerships will cut them just to get the time but the rotors will fall right below spec, but not by much. In my dealership this doesn't happen and if it does it's by mistake as in the machine is messing up the cuts.

Type-s and manual trans 3GTL's have brembo's. They generally last around 15-25K all depending on how you drive and where you live. Usually in some cases by 35k you would be due for a 2nd round of brakes. At that point the unwritten rule I USE is to toss out the rotors since they generally are good for one cut and always have a crushed lip on the very edge of the rotors.

Yes, 1K is a lot but that includes labor which again is 2.6 for pads and rotors for all around. That's roughly $310.00 labor if the dealerships rate is at 120 an hour. I paid nearly $870.00 for Rotora cross drilled/slotted rotors and Pads all around for my car. Labor being free since I did the job. Yes owning this vehicle with brembo's isn't a cheap job, it's a lot more $$ for the parts compared to the standard brakes.

Another thing, we get graded by you guys... Yes the customers. This is our way of staying with the company and maybe getting a pay increase. I doubt the technician would try to dick you over since "his job is on the line" deal. People don't understand but if your not happy and you said fuck this I'm going to give them a bad survey because the service writer was not giving me my information, well you just flunked the technician with that survey. I understand how you feel, please understand it's generally very expensive to do this. YOU are better off going aftermarket and doing the job yourself. IT is the only way you will truly save money.

 

1000 bucks LMAO. 44 bucks for OEM quality front pads at Autozone (military discount) plus 100 bucks for new OEM quality rotors. Rear pads 35 bucks for the set...takes about an hour. That's why its called "Stealership" my friend.

I bought my car used with 89k on it its got 109k on it now so just ME driving it put 20k on the front pads since I just did it. Who knows when the last time the pads were done so I would think they can last 30-35k maybe more!

 

Thanks guys. I will check all measurements this weekend. I certainly don't want any hard working technician to get into trouble. On the other hand I don't want to feel like I'm getting hosed. Right now the evidence is certainly suspicious to say the least.

I will report back after measuring if i don't spend the weekend dodging Hurricane Irene which seems intent on heading right for my neighborhood..

 

from the OP it looks like just front pads and rotors and rear pads (no rear rotor). The rear pads by themselves cant be that much harder to replace. I believe the rear rotors require some work with the parking brake but that wont be done in the OP's case.

 

For pad slaps only it's 1.0 hr per axle. Its 2.0 hrs to do front and rear pad slap only I would figure the cost between parts and labor would be $400 max. Then again I am only going based on what the costs are. At my cost it's a different story and yes, I myself don't use OEM Stuff..

 

any update?

 

In 2.5 hours you received a ton of information and everything needed to continue
- Info that you should have at the ready in the factory service manual...
8.5 years later and you never got back to give feedback.

Those on this forum can only assume that they were indeed beyond the limit and you were out eating with crows

Lock and delete this thread it is worthless.

 

What's worthless is you bumping a nine year old thread; why didn't you just leave it for dead?