Passenger side mount bolts on my 06 tl auto base seem to be backing themselves out cause my pulley to drill into my mount. Anyone else have this issue or any advice?

 

I guess it's a little late to say "Tighten the bolts."

A few have had this issue.
My advice would be to fix it, mucho pronto.

 

someone over torqued the bolts...the mount is stripped.
replace mount.

 

Do I need to find a new bracket for the engine or just replace mount and bolts?

 

well, i take that back..

remove the mount and see if the bracket is fucked...if bracket is fucked, then replace bracket along with motor mount.

but you can kind of see the aluminum strips/chips. meaning the bracket is most likely fucked.

 

Looks like #5 Bracket, Engine Side Mounting - Acura (11910-RCA-A00) either needs replacing or perhaps heli-coiled by a professional.
Cylinder Block - Oil Pan for 2006 Acura TL | Delray Acura Parts (acuraoemparts.com)

 

Similarly, https://acurazine.com/forums/third-g...cement-995431/

 

The bolts were loose from being stripped. You can see below the first one already backed out and and the rear one is more so.

 

Don't quote me on this, but I'm pretty sure that the upper timing covers need to be taken off in order to replace that bracket. (not too hard, just a bunch of 10mm bolts)

There's a chance your motor mount is okay, but you won't know until you replace the bracket (and I'd replace those two bolts as well).

Be sure to use a soft piece of wood on a jack under the engine pan to raise it an inch or so to make it flush with the mounting point when you are replacing that.

 

Atleast that’s an easy and cheap mount to replace need be I think I bought a couple mounts for $20 off Amazon too. I would buy a tap and die set and rethread it.

 

Had this exact same issue! Bolts stripped out of that bottom mount. Instead of replacing the entire mount which would have been a royal pain, I drilled holes the entire way through that bottom mount (it's aluminum so not too hard to do, but you will need a VERY long drill bit.) and I bought bolts, washers, and nuts from Home Depot and bolted it in

 

The reason this happens is because when you install the side engine mount bracket or mount, you need to support the bottom of the engine and keep the top side even, then you run the bolts down. If you just let the bracket rest down onto the top of the engine mount, it's actually slanted when you run bolts down, causing the thread to strip on the bolts.

 

This! I just replaced this exact mount the other day. Thankfully this mount provides a lot of room if you need to tap and die. Lang has a really nice tap and die set (Snap-on and Matco just rebrand it and charge way more for the same one).

 

I’ve had the same issue literally happen less than a week ago.



Anyone with help please help a brother out.

 

Best bet is to replace both brackets if you can, I ended up drilling out the mounting bracket and installing helicoils with locktite and it worked like a dream

 

I replaced every single mount motor trans sub frame mounts and it still fuckin snapped? Any underlying issues u could think of?

 

Over or under torqued bolts and/or corrosion. Even if it wasn't you, previous guy might had torqued those bolts with big impact gun. If memory serves right mount bracket bolts are 40 ft lb.

 

@peter6 What would be the best method of making sure they stay in place and don’t rock back and forth?

 

Best idea would be to simply make sure bolts and threads are clean and torque them to spec. You have extra step of replacing what's broken first.

I took many of those mounts off, including my own car, and never had something like that happen.

 

I think your top bracket is cracked (see attached image). If so, the bracket may not be able to distribute the forces correctly and that might be snapping your bolts.

Also, the grounding strap is attached incorrectly. It should be attached with a small bolt in the area circled in red in the second picture. I can't imagine it could make a big difference, but the extra materiel under only one side of the bolt could cause issues.

Finally, your bolts don't look OEM. If you use aftermarket bolts, make sure they are rated for the same pressure.

 

@peter6 got it alright bro, thank you so much and yeah I believe the mechanic who did the work def didn’t think nor assume how much pressure to apply, standard issue mechanic just wrenches and ratchets lol none the less ima get the new bolts/screws 2’m from Acura Ramsey and change em’. Do u recall if there were washer there or no?

 

@redbeard1 thanks bro and no that’s the grove that was made from the pulley grinding into the bracket. Nonetheless so I agree, I had oem ones n the mechanic said he didn’t need them. A.) B.) I do believe I need oem bolts/screws whatever however I also so some diagram that showed some
bearing attached to the power steering pulley. Do u believe the pulley as well as that bearing may have been compromised due to the unfortunate event?

 

You guys need to support the motor on the passenger side then jack up the motor so the 2 brackets line up even and flat, BEFORE you insert the bolts to tighten them down, as I put above in my previous comment. If you let the motor hang down, then the motor mount's bracket is not even and flat with the motor side bracket. The bolts will go in crooked and and sometimes strip the threads.

I've taken that side motor mount off at least 10 times and this has never happened.

 

I'm not sure. It seems, given the amount of damage shown, that the PS pulley was partially supporting the engine at least for a while. I can't imagine the bearing was designed for that kind of load.

I would monitor the pump for noises and keep in mind, rebuilding the pump is not too hard. There is a DIY on this site.

 

@redbeard1 u know what’s funny bro- I haven’t had power steering fully operational I wanna say for almost 7-8months now. Long story short, hairline rip on the tube that I’d presume the return? The rubber one that comes out of the reservoir (the one furthest to the right of your standing at the hood of your TL) and goes towards the engine block I believe. Anywho rubber hose hairline rip/crack. My dumbass got the whole pump assembly thinkin my pump was bad, the day I go to begin changing it first thing I was beginning to do was detach the hoses from all the entry/exit points and bam 💥 I notice the crack, you couldn’t see it and it didn’t produce that much of a leak frankly had I not heard the whining when I had the wheel fully cocked I prolly would of gone on to never even notice it. But like parallel parking w no power steering w those Effin 245’s total bitch. Anyway needless to say I replaced all the hoses flushed it basically did every BUT replace the pump cuz it’s not like it doesn’t function but my wheel should turn like smooth u get me? Like butter 🧈 (BUDDA) but it hasn’t been that smooth for damn near a year. So my presumption is that because the motor sat cocked like that for almost a month (the first time the pulley chomped into that mount)
I was broke man, couldn’t afford the repair, fuckin hurricane IDA blew my motor out. So copped a new motor the sound was still present however if I loosened those exact bolts that got chomped off by the pulley that whining sound would disappear and id have my steering back to budda. Soon as I tightened those two down ( not overkill just firmly tightened) the wheel would be like a sack a fuckin potatoes and the bitch would whine at even the slightest use of steering. So personally I think the bearing I believe that’s what it would be called, but the bearing that’s at the center of the power steering pulley has to be totally fucked by now. So my plan is to replace the pump, in the process while I’m already gonna be in that area, see if I could buy either like an upgraded set of pulleys, preferably a set that has a smaller diameter of that specific pulley so this way I have a good amount of space between the mount n that pulley or if they don’t sell that type of set get a new oem P/S pulley and replace all of the functioning components along with it… fellas on God this is my second TL same gen as my old one, the first one I had never had a SINGLE FUCKIN ISSUE. This one? I’ve already dumped EASILY W PARTS LABOR WHATEVER DAMN NEAR 7-9 racks. The whole front end (the under carriage) meaning all the suspension components were replaced like 45-60 days ago. I hadda do that cuz of how badly I fucked myself driving the car w the motor leaning off center or level by like 8-12 degrees for damn near 2-3 months. Idk how tf I didn’t die. The serpentine belt literally fucking made its own mark/path on the subframe, and thanks to my power steering reservoir literally fuckin blowing up not once but 3 times. Like the cap would literally blow off and I’d have smoke a shit ton of P/S fluid all over the left half of the bay. I believe all that residue that accumulated on the bottom of the subframe kept the belt to some degree lubricated hence why it never snapped or broke shit it wasn’t even frayed when we took it off. Unreal, but it did leave a perfect fuckin groove on the subframe. So now that everyone here has heard of my stupidity, horrible financial circumstances, and total history as briefly yet detailed as possible as it pertains to the topic I need feedback… lol do we believe the pulleys bearing is fucked cuz I do. Brand new belt and I deadass had an entirely different mechanic redo the bolts literally two days ago. Now he goes and tells me I gotta redo the entire thing again becuase his thoughts are the brackets compromised (CLEARLY IT IS U IDIOT) but the very fact that I might have to shell out another 6-900 to have this done ain’t happening right now. 1 I’m beyond broke I’m lucky I even got the opportunity to fill my tank 2 days ago fuckin 79 motherfuckin dollars to fill this bitch. And 2 outta principles I wanna go and burn the first mechanics fucking garage down to the ground because he swears it’s not his fault. Then how tf did I run through 3 mounts and 2 brackets in less than 16 days? Doesn’t add up. I’d love to have something just shed light on my bearings/updated/upgraded pulley theory. Thanks for reading guys and I apologize for the fuckin novel I had to write but I wanted everyone who can and is capable of aiding me to have the full scope of circumstances and issues within the last 90-120 days that all literally pertain to that one mount. Clearly there is a massive pressure on that bracket and for the love of Christ no mechanic seems to have a valid theory other than go and replace it all all over agin. WHY IF IT MAY VERY WELL HAPPEN AGIN IN 2 fuckin weeks… so idk guys shed some positive vibes cuz I’m at my wits end w this fuckin TL. Much love and thank you