I got an airbag light that comes on randomly so I thought I’d plug in my scan tool to see and well it can’t see srs codes, thought it did. But I did get a 61-1 Battery Voltage Malfunction code, I assume the srs code is something to do with my belt because when it’s on I can drive without my seatbelt no issue, I still put it on but it doesn’t recognize if it’s on or off. I’ve tested my voltages and they seem fine 11.9 before crank and then 13.9 when the engine turns over. The other issues with the car is the fact that the driver side mirror keeps trying to go up after that reverse feature for the car, both side mirrors don’t move smooth so I have to relubricate them, then the door behind the drivers will not lock or unlock from the key fob(tried both) in hot weather, which is all the time in Cali. The car also get really bad gas mileage, I know it’s old and has 120k but I think 14 city without ac running is still really bad, that’s with driving like a grandma anything more and it’s straight 11 mpg.
I don’t know what’s causing all these issues. They could all be related and I’m just stupid or they are all Seperate and would take a lot of time.
Thanks ahead to all of you that respond

 

Hi,

The code is probably due to the low voltage. A fully charged healthy battery should register 12.7 volts A 50% charged healthy battery should register 12.3 volts. Assuming your battery is healthy, 11.9 volts is usually indicative of a battery near empty. Use a trickle charger to get your battery to full. Alternators are not meant to charge an empty battery.

The airbag light is a common problem. Google on this site. I need to clean my seat belt buckle receptor every year or I get the same light. One poster said that if you buckle before starting the car, the problem also goes away.

Good luck.

 

 

Ymmv but I disconnected/removed my hfl and still use the home link to open my garage door.

 

 

That's what I learned to do. Supposedly Honda and Acura warranty seatbelt issues for the life of the vehicle. I know they fixed an issue on my 1990 Accord years ago when it was well out of the regular warranty. My understanding is if the airbag light doesn't flash provided you buckle up first, the issue is in the seatbelt system and should be fixed for free. But if it turns out to be something else they will charge you a diagnosis fee.

 

 

14 mpg is bizarre. I get 26 mpg on my 07 with almost 270,000 so you have something going on. Have you put an OBD II on it to see if you have any other codes related to engine? Even if you drive all city you should be around 20 mpg.
Year/service history??? 120,000 is just getting warmed up for these cars

 

Start with posting the details on the MID that include the average speed as well. These cars are pigs when in true stop and go traffic. Mine recently dipped into the high teens for the first time in years....but then I noticed my average miles per hour was sub-25.

 

Homelink is powered by another circuit, when you "unplug HFL" , you're unplugging the HFL circuit , it has nothing to do with homelink.

 

Yup, 14 mpg is scary low; as suggested, post a photo of your MID showing your average speed. The thing is, even the most efficient car in the world can return 14 mpg if the average speed is low enough.

The above said, most folks will tell you under normal mixed driving conditions 25 to 30 mpg is more typical. My car typically returns 28-29 in "daily-driver" or "commuter" mode and more like 33 on the highway; the worst I've gotten when stuck in lots of traffic was 25.

 

 

 

A few comments:

• Changing your oil every 5,000 miles with Mobil 1 is serious overkill for these engines; changing Mobil 1 (or any other top quality synthetic) every 10,000 miles is still conservative and will allow the engine to far exceed the life of the rest of the car.
• Doing a 3x3 ATF change every 10,000 miles is also overkill, but to a lesser degree; 15,000 to 20,000 miles is still very conservative.
• At 120,000 miles your engine is barely broken in; my car has over 140,000 miles on it and as I wrote above, the absolute worst tank I've ever had on the car was 25 mpg.

 

 

I spray electrical contact cleaner in the buckle receptor and then insert/release the buckle 20-30 times. Place a rag under buckle receptor in case the fluid leaks out. Keep in mind, if your airbag light is on, that means your airbags will not deploy in accident.

As far as your MPG, I get 33 highway at 65 mph with no head or tail wind and average 18 in city. WHat MPG do you get on highway?

 

With a lot of city driving and with your fuel economy I might be inclined to go the recommended 7,500 miles, if for no other reason than until you get the fuel economy issue sorted (BTW, I'm leaning toward one or both upstream O2 sensors being in slow failure mode), I suspect there may be some fuel dilution issues. If you're really curious, go 7,500 miles and send an oil sample to Blackstone Labs and have the oil analyzed, it'll tell you if you have any fuel dilution issues (or any other issues).

 

 

 

Way low.

I am not a fan of throwing parts at undiagnosed problems, however, far too often I've seen cars with relatively crappy fuel economy and no OBD codes have a sudden improvement in economy when the upstream O2 sensors are replaced. Should you be so inclined to try this, I cannot stress enough for you to buy either Honda/Acura OEM sensors or Denso sensors; whatever you do, do NOT buy Bosch units.

 

Horsie, realize OP is in Cali and traffic is horrific out here. I get about that mileage as well and I take it as normal. The one time I took it out to Vegas doing normal cruising speed (70-75 mph over 200 miles) I was able to get 28 mpg. But the best I've gotten in Socal highway traffic and about 15% city driving is 26 MPG.


Sounds relatively normal to me but maybe my Type S is just as bad

 

Hmmm, I suppose that's possible, but your's sounds low as well. My latest round-trip to the NYC metro area included a number of traffic snarls and it was a hot and humid weekend so the A/C was running full-tilt. During the trip, while the traffic was moving, I ran pretty much 70-80 the entire way, and still got 33 mpg on the trip down and 32 on the way back up. I'm having a hard time believing a Type-S, with only 0.3 liters of additional displacement compared to my car, will suffer that much in the fuel economy department.

Dare I add a side comment; last time I checked, California gas stations typically sell 91 AKI Premium, here in New England 93 is the norm and 91 is as rare as 93 in your neck of the woods; could it be possible the extra detonation resistance is responsible for the extra efficiency?

 

Also Auto vs. manual

 

 

I suppose, but a Type-S Automatic has the same highway fuel economy ratings as a 2006 6MT model; both are rated at 26.

 

 

www.oemacuraparts.com

Go in and search for all the parts to your heart's desire!

 

 

 

 

ahh that might explain some things.. Someone probably replaced it with a Bosch to fix an issue and it didn't fix it so they sold the car. Replace!!!

 

 

Note that I replaced my factory O2 with that DENSO...my OE was an NGK. They do look different....not sure if that is a good or bad thing yet. I also only changed the front one and not the back....mostly out of laziness, cost, and only the front bank threw a code. As painful as it was to get the front one replaced, I for sure am not looking forward to doing the back one.

 

 

I replaced mine on a Saturday, so starting on Monday I was hitting it with PB Blaster every night. I ordered an O2 socket from Amazon, and had tried a few times through the week just wrenching on it...and it never budged. I finally hit it with an electric impact on Friday night, and then Saturday morning I got it free with my wrench. Getting the stupid clip undone was also a PITA, but the videos I watched clued me in on how that worked.

 

 

Just remember the clip does NOT come undone until it is released from the bracket.

 

 

I "think" they both are mounted on a bracket that is part of the clip assembly. I haven't touched the rear one yet...just the front. Had to use a small flat head screwdriver to free the clip from the bracket. Only then can you separate the connector.