Low speed clunk!
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Low speed clunk!
Hello!
I’ve been trying to locate this obnoxious front end clunk on my 2007 Acura TL auto. . I read threads/post. But no one really has the same problem or they didn’t come back to post what fixed it, or they just never fixed it. Well I have a clunk. Very low speeds parking space speed or turning at a very low rate of speed (5mph-10mph) I do not get a clunk going over bumps. Just turning. Been dealing with this for a year and it’s driving me nuts now cause it’s getting worse, also it’s embarrassing. Started a month after changing my transmission. Doesn’t seem to effect anything, but I know something is off so I want it to be corrected. The list that has been done.
•Tein street advance coilovers. (New OEM bushing on top hat) everything a month old
•PCI compliance bushings/bearings, OEM bushings on the rest of the lower control arm. (1 Year old)
•New inner and outer tie rods (6 months old)
• New sway bar end links (1 week old)
•Lower ball joints and wheel bearings upper control arm(1-1/2years old) changed left driver side upper control arm due to hitting a pot hole 3 months ago.
•raxles (2 years old)
Thats all I can think about now, I get a slight clunk right before getting To either lock position on the steering wheel. Steering wheel is a little firmer when I installed the teins, thinking it’s due too me having it at F-8 R-9 dampening setting. But it does respond back after turning the wheel. Any ideas or if someone successfully fixed this problem, you save me from selling this car. Thank you!
I’ve been trying to locate this obnoxious front end clunk on my 2007 Acura TL auto. . I read threads/post. But no one really has the same problem or they didn’t come back to post what fixed it, or they just never fixed it. Well I have a clunk. Very low speeds parking space speed or turning at a very low rate of speed (5mph-10mph) I do not get a clunk going over bumps. Just turning. Been dealing with this for a year and it’s driving me nuts now cause it’s getting worse, also it’s embarrassing. Started a month after changing my transmission. Doesn’t seem to effect anything, but I know something is off so I want it to be corrected. The list that has been done.
•Tein street advance coilovers. (New OEM bushing on top hat) everything a month old
•PCI compliance bushings/bearings, OEM bushings on the rest of the lower control arm. (1 Year old)
•New inner and outer tie rods (6 months old)
• New sway bar end links (1 week old)
•Lower ball joints and wheel bearings upper control arm(1-1/2years old) changed left driver side upper control arm due to hitting a pot hole 3 months ago.
•raxles (2 years old)
Thats all I can think about now, I get a slight clunk right before getting To either lock position on the steering wheel. Steering wheel is a little firmer when I installed the teins, thinking it’s due too me having it at F-8 R-9 dampening setting. But it does respond back after turning the wheel. Any ideas or if someone successfully fixed this problem, you save me from selling this car. Thank you!
#3
Burning Brakes
I'm going to wager upper ball joints. I hear that having a modified suspension puts a great deal of stress on these.
second place I would check would be end links...
so you don't end up replacing all the various components in an effort to find the clunking part you may want to mimic some movements with the vehicle raised:
most technicians will recommend grabbing the wheel while the vehicle is raised and twisting it at 12-6 & 9-3 positions, but I haven't had much luck with that approach.
I find it quite helpful to raise the car onto jackstands, remove the wheel and use the jack to raise the suspension into ride height. Any noises heard can be pinpointed by listening and sometimes feeling closely; obvi don't put your hand in somewhere it can get pinched.
in general I've read that ball joints should not be easy to move by hand. if you have the tools and want to dig deeper, disconnect any given joint and try to move it; that should tell you whether or not it is a concern.
second place I would check would be end links...
so you don't end up replacing all the various components in an effort to find the clunking part you may want to mimic some movements with the vehicle raised:
most technicians will recommend grabbing the wheel while the vehicle is raised and twisting it at 12-6 & 9-3 positions, but I haven't had much luck with that approach.
I find it quite helpful to raise the car onto jackstands, remove the wheel and use the jack to raise the suspension into ride height. Any noises heard can be pinpointed by listening and sometimes feeling closely; obvi don't put your hand in somewhere it can get pinched.
in general I've read that ball joints should not be easy to move by hand. if you have the tools and want to dig deeper, disconnect any given joint and try to move it; that should tell you whether or not it is a concern.
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
#7
Instructor
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Storm (06-20-2019)
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#8
Senior Moderator
check your trans mounts! To much load and torn mounts can cause a clunk.
#9
Like everyone said check engine and trans mounts. When you jack up the car by the frame is there any play if you try to tug on the wheels from top to bottom and side to side? That would indicate any balljoint issues for sure. Other than that it could possibly be a CV axle issue. Are the boots in good shape? Not leaking grease?
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Storm (06-23-2019)
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
Like everyone said check engine and trans mounts. When you jack up the car by the frame is there any play if you try to tug on the wheels from top to bottom and side to side? That would indicate any balljoint issues for sure. Other than that it could possibly be a CV axle issue. Are the boots in good shape? Not leaking grease?
I tried moving the wheel all around, and still nothing, no play at all. I may just take it apart and order hardrace lower ball joint to eliminate that possibility
#14
Cruisin'
I would suspect a lower ball joint
A driver's side lower ball joint failed causing the axle to break on my 2007 Acura TL Type-S. Luckily I was pulling out of a Publix parking spot. I had just been hauling ass northbound on I95. I'm not an expert on suspensions but I am learning a lot after this experience. My TL Type-S had been in a collision in 2014 and I suspect the parts used to repair damage were not Genuine Honda. I have read that some aftermarket lower ball joints do not have a necessary "perch". I haven't noticed any issues with the replacement lower ball joint.
Last edited by Will4781; 08-08-2019 at 01:02 PM.
#15
Instructor
Thread Starter
Still chasing this noise. I changed the rear mounts. Went to the alignment shop on Saturday and found the driver upper ball joint making noise. So ordered already skunk 2 uca. Just waiting to install them. But other than that everything seem tight. Told him to check the rack he said not to worry about it. No play in the lower ball joints. Or anything. I’ll update if this fixes my problem.
#16
Instructor
Thread Starter
What part of Florida are you from? And I want to recheck the axle just Incase for any play. I get no vibration due to axles but can never be too sure. Did you get a replacement ?
A driver's side lower ball joint failed causing the axle to break on my 2007 Acura TL Type-S. Luckily I was pulling out of a Publix parking spot. I had just been hauling ass northbound on I95. I'm not an expert on suspensions but I am learning a lot after this experience. My TL Type-S had been in a collision in 2014 and I suspect the parts used to repair damage were not Genuine Honda. I have read that some aftermarket lower ball joints do not have a necessary "perch". I haven't noticed any issues with the replacement lower ball joint.
#17
Still chasing this noise. I changed the rear mounts. Went to the alignment shop on Saturday and found the driver upper ball joint making noise. So ordered already skunk 2 uca. Just waiting to install them. But other than that everything seem tight. Told him to check the rack he said not to worry about it. No play in the lower ball joints. Or anything. I’ll update if this fixes my problem.
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
#19
Cruisin'
Still chasing this noise. I changed the rear mounts. Went to the alignment shop on Saturday and found the driver upper ball joint making noise. So ordered already skunk 2 uca. Just waiting to install them. But other than that everything seem tight. Told him to check the rack he said not to worry about it. No play in the lower ball joints. Or anything. I’ll update if this fixes my problem.
#20
Instructor
Thread Starter
Yeah I sold the car before installing the upper control arm. So if you want I can sell you these brand new skunk 2 arms I have now just sitting
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Will4781 (09-10-2019)
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