Loud Valve Train
#1
Loud Valve Train
Hello......new user and first time Acura owner here. I've had a few Hondas and I sold Acuras for about a year at a dealership in Colorado, so I am generally very familiar with the cars. It was nothing random that I chose a TL as my next car
Anyway....I just bought a 2006 TL 5AT with 75K miles on it. The car runs great and has tons of power compared to my old Accord, but the valve train at idle is loud (even by Honda standards). There is also a slight stutter in the engine at idle......very subtle but I notice it because I know how smooth this engine should be.
Any advice before I take it to the Stealership and they F me out of a pile of money just to LOOK at it? Yes.....I have seen that from the inside and they routinely "F" customers right in the "A"
Got new tires coming in.....can't wait to see how it rides with new shoes. The tires that are on it are crap.
Anyway....I just bought a 2006 TL 5AT with 75K miles on it. The car runs great and has tons of power compared to my old Accord, but the valve train at idle is loud (even by Honda standards). There is also a slight stutter in the engine at idle......very subtle but I notice it because I know how smooth this engine should be.
Any advice before I take it to the Stealership and they F me out of a pile of money just to LOOK at it? Yes.....I have seen that from the inside and they routinely "F" customers right in the "A"
Got new tires coming in.....can't wait to see how it rides with new shoes. The tires that are on it are crap.
#3
That's on my short list of things to do. Cheap and easy. Looks like the rear facing plugs will be a little challenging to get at, but not too bad. Not like the F-150 crew with their $500 spark plug changes....bwahahahaha ford....hahahahahaha
#4
Registered Bike Offender
iTrader: (3)
Piece of cake if you have swivel/u-joints and various socket extensions. The popular thing to do seems to be to climb on top of the engine to get at those.
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#6
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
^if you're going to pull one, pull #5
firewall
123
456
radiator.
#5 is the one that LOVES to eject.
I also guarantee that the plug will be in great condition, its just that sometimes these plugs get a little loose.
once they are loose, they can eject.
so, if you're going to do anything, just check if they are nice and tight.
at 75k i guarantee they'll be in great condition
firewall
123
456
radiator.
#5 is the one that LOVES to eject.
I also guarantee that the plug will be in great condition, its just that sometimes these plugs get a little loose.
once they are loose, they can eject.
so, if you're going to do anything, just check if they are nice and tight.
at 75k i guarantee they'll be in great condition
#7
06 Anthracite TL
The whole process to check them takes ~ 40 minutes and that's with removing the rear (firewall) strut bar. It makes access to the plugs very easy. Do it now before it's too late.
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#8
Registered Bike Offender
iTrader: (3)
Don't need to remove strut bar if you have swivel/u-joints and proper extensions. If you're worknig on cars, you should have this anyway. I use mine ALL the time.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc...p-00942351000P
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-pc...p-00942351000P
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