Intermittent crank/ no start p0335

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Old Aug 20, 2019 | 11:11 AM
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Intermittent crank/ no start p0335

Hey guys,
I’m dealing with an issue I am having with a 2005 TL auto with nav. Initially the car would not start, only code was P0335 ( crank position sensor) . I replaced the fuel pump relay and realized the car had little to no gas (added gas) and started up and ran fine for 2 weeks.
And than I got a service engine soon B message, car ran rough and it would not restart. The P0335 code came back. After a few days I tried again and it started back up and ran ok but I’m going to do some service and hopefully pinpoint the issues before trusting it as a daily. My question is: Should I replace the crank position sensor? Is this code common and is this a common fix, or possibly PCM? ( appeared to be dry and free of corrosion). I’m definitely doing plugs and all other maintenance. Anybody deal with this? Any help is appreciated, I can answer and follow any instructions that can help you help me.

Thanks again,
Paul
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Old Aug 20, 2019 | 11:14 AM
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Additional info: car has had battery, alternator, battery cables and timing belt replaced within last few years.
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Old Aug 20, 2019 | 01:17 PM
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So you saw a P0335 for the crank sensor and that lead you to replace the fuel pump relay?

You can eliminate battery/starter by having them tested at Autozone or any other parts store. Also, are you certain it's not the immobilizer?

A bad crank position sensor (CKP) will cause a crank-no start issue.

First, just do visual inspection. Look for chaffed harness, loose connector, corrosion, etc. If everything looks good, then you're going to have to do some diagnostics.

If you have a scanner or maybe even a BT OBDII plug with Torque, you can look at RPM data while you crank. If the the car cranks and the RPM on the scanner is at 0 RPM, then that means that PCM is not seeing the CKP signal. You'll need to check the sensor 5-volt, ground, and signal.

Last edited by El_Cheapo; Aug 20, 2019 at 01:20 PM.
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Old Aug 20, 2019 | 05:28 PM
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Thanks for the response. Initially I thought it was a fuel problem. I looked into recalls and noticed the fuel pump relay was recalled and updated. My car still had the old relay so I figured I’d replace regardless. After that it seemed like smooth sailing until now.

I will check the rpm data tomorrow but at the moment the car has no issues. I definitely need to visually inspect the sensor, I have yet to figure out where it is so I’ll do some research tonight.

I want to say I’ve ruled out the immobilized because I have different keys. However I do remember seeing the green key emblem flash while the car was giving me issues. How can I officially rule that out?

Thanks again. I will post my results tomorrow around this time.
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Old Aug 20, 2019 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Blacura2005
I definitely need to visually inspect the sensor, I have yet to figure out where it is so I’ll do some research tonight.
The crank sensor is located behind the crank pulley. #16 & #17 display the sensor and harness on the link below:

https://www.acuraoemparts.com/v-2005...gine--oil-pump
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Old Aug 21, 2019 | 07:35 AM
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Thanks for the schematic!

Also I just realized I need to edit my post. The code is P0336, not P0335.
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Old Aug 21, 2019 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Blacura2005
Thanks for the response. Initially I thought it was a fuel problem. I looked into recalls and noticed the fuel pump relay was recalled and updated. My car still had the old relay so I figured I’d replace regardless. After that it seemed like smooth sailing until now.

I will check the rpm data tomorrow but at the moment the car has no issues. I definitely need to visually inspect the sensor, I have yet to figure out where it is so I’ll do some research tonight.

I want to say I’ve ruled out the immobilized because I have different keys. However I do remember seeing the green key emblem flash while the car was giving me issues. How can I officially rule that out?

Thanks again. I will post my results tomorrow around this time.
If the car is working normally then you won't be able to diagnose a problem that isn't there. So there is no point of looking at the RPM data right now other than just for you to know what is good cranking speed. FYI, starting crank is 200-300 RPM.

Since you're car is working fine now, take a look at the immobilizer green key light flash duration. That way you'll know what good is. Also note that the immobilizer system only disables the fuel pump so keep that in mind.

Also, just because the fuel pump is working does not mean you don't have a fuel problem.

Last edited by El_Cheapo; Aug 21, 2019 at 02:28 PM.
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Old Aug 21, 2019 | 09:53 PM
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get the proper code my friend:
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Old Aug 21, 2019 | 09:57 PM
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Old Aug 21, 2019 | 09:57 PM
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Old Yesterday | 09:30 AM
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Good morning, thank you for providing these instructions. I know this was an old thread, but once I finish my diagnosis I will share later for anyone else who may have similar issues. After looking at my TL’s setup, I believe the G101 may be the culprit, but I’ll need to follow this diagnosis procedure before I begin any kind of parts replacement.
Originally Posted by csmeance
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