My driver's door stopped locking...it unlocks without any issue. I have to repeatedly press the lock button, either in the car or on the key fob, a bunch of times before it eventually locks...can be as little as 5-10 times or up to over 20 times. I thought the actuator was going bad so I replaced it...it seemed to have worked. But then today it happened again.

Has anybody had this issue and resolved it?

I know there is a thread about changing the entire interior fuse housing in order to replace the MICU or change out the relay that controls this...my question though to those that have had this issue, did your locks just never work? I just find it odd that they work sometimes and other times no luck until a bunch of clicks of the lock button.

Worth mentioning, I've also tried a different switch and still the same issue. Also, I can hear clicking coming from the relay in the fuse box (if that helps).

Any assistance would be super appreciated!

Cheers

 

Due to the intermittent nature of the failure, this sounds like a loose or corroded contact somewhere. Try all of the different ways of locking the door: key in door, remote, pushing lock switches on both front
doors, and depressing lock switches on both front doors. This should help you track down the problem.

Also you might try disconnecting your battery to reset the locking controller.

 

Thanks Stokesey! I gave the wires and connectors a good look. Did notice any loose connection terminals or corrosion.

But here are my findings so far.

I tried every method of locking the car when the lock function isn't working and nothing stood out, no method worked. I also eliminated the cause of the key fob or the alarm being the issue by manually locking all the doors and then hitting the key fob lock button to confirm alarm gives me the activation beep. This indicated that it wasn't something as silly as the key fob battery. I already knew this wasn't the case because the interior door lock switches wouldn't lock the car.

I disconnected the battery for about 30 minutes....no change.

THEN!!!! I remembered in the past when I've had odd electronic issues (not with the TL) I attempted the method of disconnecting the positive and negative cables from the battery and then connecting the positive and negative wires (using a jumper cable) in order to drain any storage voltage from all electronic components. I dont know if it is some sort of placebo thing LOL but it has resolved a couple of issues in my old civic, usually related to memory type settings... If you do this, make sure you cover your battery terminals as you don't want your cables to accidently touch the battery terminals (bad stuff may happen), so be warned...anyway, after doing this my locks are functioning. They functioned without issue for 3 days. I tested repeatedly through out the days. There was a moment where it didn't function but after 3-5 press of the lock button we were back to normal functioning locks.

Now, I have no idea that what I did actually solved my problem. To be honest, I think it's simply a coincidence. I read a tutorial on the site for replacing the 8 pin relay in the MICU unit that controls the lock. I'm gonna order that relay and switch it up when I have the chance. Relays if/when they go bad can either just stop working or they can come to a slow death where they function on an intermitted basis. I'm thinking this is the case with my situation.

Just wanted to update this thread in case somebody goes searching. I'll update once I change up the relay.

 

I had the same issue for a week or so, then it went away. I started noticing that the battery would drain pretty quickly and traced the power draw back to Multiplexor/Fuse Box unit. Apparently, when it starts to fail, many different electrical gremlins will appear. My mechanic said he has replaced several of these on our gen TL and seen lots of strange issues fixed as a result. Once replaced it, no more battery drain or lock issues. Part was like $280 and I paid $100 to put it in.

 

Thought I'd give an update.

Managed to pull the unit out, opened it up and removed the relay I referred to in my original message. I soldered the new one in place and all is back to normal now.

This job was a massive pain. Not the relay, just unplugging and re-plug all the plugs. If you decide to give it a go, be patient!!

If anybody wants these relays, let me know. I have 4 left. Willing to give them out for free, you just need to cover shipping.

Cheers

 

can you share a picture of where the relay was and what it looks like? I'm having a similar issue and was going to put in a new door lock motor but this seems worth a shot too.

 

I used this post, there's a bunch of pics...super helpful!

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-p...button-859242/