There saying that this could very well be the cause of the missfires?

Ugh this is getting old fast in into it for $700 bucks and very little improvement to speak of .

Calling all Machanics pls chime in , what the heck is going on with my tl

Ty

 

a buddy of mine tonight told me if my timing belt is losse just a little bit , that will give you some missfires.
Any truth to this ?

I have the timing belt kit in the trunk ready to install .

 

I would go ahead and have the timing belt and water pump changed and cross your fingers! This would rule out what your buddy says.

 

Sorry, I have to call B.S. on that advice.

 

It won't be the timing belt. You would hear the valves hitting. I would buy one coil pack and test it in your cylinder 6. I had a bad miss for awhile, had just out new coil packs and sparkplugs in, timing belt, cleaned intake and egr valve, tested and cleaned fuel injectors. Still a miss. I out a old coil pack in one cylinder at a time to test and finally found the one. Just cause they are new parts, doesn't mean you didn't get a faulty one. Coil packs run better when they are warm, run worse when it's raining out and miosture gets to them.

 

This is getting ridiculous, I mean I bought this thing to enjoy it , not dump money into it .
Even the owner at the performance shop said he's seen a stretched timing belt do some crazy shit and one of them is definitely throwing ur timing out .
Bad idler pully ??

All my coil packs are two weeks old .
Does anyone on here live in Vancouver BC ?

 

What brand coil packs did you go with?

 

Have you checked the timing?

 

Delphi and when I told the dealership they agreed that those are a good replacement

 

when I had the car into the dealership for the scan , I would assume they did check this as I told all falls within guide lines

Also when I had it in to the performance shop for the leak down they to test drove the car with scanner and checked things out , both dealership and performance shop indicated miss fires coming from cylinders 5 and 6

 

J35TLS did you ever find out what the issue is? I'm having very similar problems and tried a bunch of stuff, only thing in this thread i havent done is a decent compression test, leak down test, and fuel pressure test.

Thanks

 

you are having the same issues as my tl eh , we're are u located?

 

I'm located in Wisconsin, just out of Madison.

I have a feeling it may have been from a mis-shift causing an overrev. Hoping that's not the case though. Fiance has done some research and she keeps saying she thinks its injectors. Need to get them cleaned and flow tested.

 

Highly unlikely it's injectors if you've been running Top Tier gas....

 

Agreed, injectors are such a remote possibility as to be almost a zero percent probability.

A mis-shift is much more likely assuming you have a manual transmission. Save your money on the cleaning and flow testing; it'll be wasted if you do that. Instead, put the money toward a cylinder leak-down test; that'll tell you if you have a valve issue from a mis-shift.

 

Well I always run 91, and an injector can fail and leak just as any other electronic item so I'm not quick to dismiss the possibility.

 

I should add that I use kwik trip gas as I believe they claim top tier gas guaranteed. I think I can get them flow tested at my local college and they won't charge me from what I've heard, figured it wouldn't hurt. Bad thing is that it's hard to work on it when it's currently my only vehicle. I'll have to invest in a leak down tester.

 

Why waste the time with such a low probability test? Move straight to tests which have a MUCH higher probability of showing an issue.

 

For more than one reason... let's break it down shall we? Obviously chances are higher it's something upper end of the engine. But if I can get 8t done for free, not only for piece of mind, but to cross out a potential cause, why would I not? Just because it's not a common issue doesn't mean it's not a possibility. Furthermore, if I have to disassemble the engine and injectors would have to get out of my way anyways to be able to rebuild the head, why take it apart again if it ends up being an issue? Why wouldn't I make sure every possibility is checked off that way I know for 200% sure everything will be good. Also, back to the free thing, while its apart, and it's free, it would be stupid not to. Lastly, I already had said I would have to invest in a leak down test, common sense would say that's next, although I do not have an air compressor so I'll be finding a buddy that has one to help me out.

 

You are W-A-Y overthinking this. Get the leakdown test done first and go from there.

 

Tell me why being 100% sure of everything is "W-A-Y" overthinking this...

that's rhetorical by the way. Guess I'll figure it out myself or find another post. Dont have to be so harsh my dude.

Seriously though, thanks everyone for the info and the help.

 

Update , today we did the timing belt, bearings and water pump.

​
K that bottom bolt , my God that dam thing was on there . We snapped one 1/2 extension 😯. Alot of heat 🔥 applied and she finally came free.
One thing that was some what concerning was the upper bolt on the tensioner was so lose I undid it by hand , I was blown away by that .
All and all things went good all went back together as it should have .

From day one when I bought the car I had a friend look at the car and he said what about the engine mounts. I was like what ??
He like I would check them out .
I never did 🙄

So today the on Mount that can out doing the job , definitely between me and my brother seemed losser than it should be .
I held the back and could clearly move the top rather easy .

So I'm thinking mayb this should be the next avenue eh ?

Total job took about 7 hrs . I'm very OCD so checking things 3 time and the bro is a bit of a cowboy so it took a bit longer than he wanted lol. ​​​​​​

 

So did this correct the misfire issues?

 

interesting to note; my side mount keeps eating the bolt and on start ups have a weird idle. almost like a misfire.

 

vEry interesting hmm, how long have u had this problem and have u replaced them before?

Mine is similar to what u are suggesting, from idle up to 1500rpm then it starts to settle out

 

i sheared one bolt like last month...and ever since last month the other bolt keeps vibrating out...once the it vibrates out; i get surge in idle at start ups. I dont think mine is quite that high at 1500RPM. at 1500rpm, perhaps that's a vacuum leak?

since, my side mount is only held in by one bolt, I think it could be hitting the serpertine belt. who knows.

 

crab man regularly shreds bolts, curbs, trees....

 

 

I did notice a difference for sure but no did not correct the issue entirely.
From day one a friend suggested engine mounts so that's my next stop.
I've just recently did the right side mount .
But I am having quite the time sourcing out the other mounts . I'm currently looking on rocket auto buts it quite difficult to filter out all the mounts and only zone in on the manual ones . Can anyone else recommend any were eles to find new mounts for my type S at good prices.
cheers

 

I went through the same process last spring. In the end I opted to go with OEM units; yes, they were more than twice the price, but well worth it, IMHO.

 

brutal that it's so hard to find certain parts for these cars eh . U went threw the dealer or a third party for the oem parts . We're u having the same issues as I am ?
The car runs really good , I believe my buddy might have been right from day one about the engine mounts eh .

 

I used Bernardi Acura (http://acura.bernardiparts.com) which is an online dealer of Acura parts, and often a buck or two cheaper than the https://www.acuraoemparts.com/ site.

The reason why I opted for new mounts was I was having my clutch changed and given that job requires dropping the subframe, the mounts are much easier to replace than normal.

 

New engine mounts won't cure a misfire....

 

So I'm on line with rock auto looking for engine mounts, and there part descriptions are quite vague to say the least .

Taking a look at the front and rear mounts threw the brand dea/mrc under my vehicle 3.5L i get a part number and when I Emailed them to ask if in fact these were the right parts they just told me to enter in my vehicle and if the part comes up then it will fit .
now go a step further and try to cross reference the parts , I decided to change the engine size to the regular TL 3.2L and funny enough the exact same parts with the exact same part number comes up .
Is this a coincidence or with the same engine mounts fit the 3.2L and the type S 6spd. This seems a bit strange

 

Went through this entire thread. It was difficult to read. I've worked on Honda/Acura for over a decade and I'll go ahead and touch on the MANY inaccuracies in this thread...

Compression test will NOT rule out bent valves. If a leak down was performed without a smoke test, you can't say your intake/exhaust valves are fine.

You mentioned the previous owner changed the timing belt... Did it ever occour to anyone that just because the timing marks line up when you checked them, doesn't rule out the possibility of bent valves?

The rear cam is under valve spring load at TDC and the cam gears like to spring back on you while making small adjustments to seat the timing belt. If the cam is further rotated in the direction it sprung on you by someone who hasn't worked on these engines before, your valves WILL make contact with piston crowns.

Rotating the cam with a socket wrench is enough force to ever-so-slightly tweak the valves where they won't seal. The person then rotates the cam back to tdc and seats the belt unknowingly just damaging the valves.

A compression test won't detect it and a leakdown will only tell you that cylinder(s) is beyond the threshold.
Cylinders 5 and 6 should be smoked during the leakdown test to confirm where the leakage is. I can almost guarantee the exhaust valves got tweaked when the timing but was done.

My only other thought would be water on the ECU causing random misfires on all cylinders when it applies ground signals to the coils.

 

^^^^ Sorry, I'm not buying that rotating the cam with a socket wrench can damage the valves...

 

Uh huh... Factor in mistaken cylinder compression and/or valve spring tension for contact with a piston crown with no belt on the rear cam, essentially putting pressure on the piston and forcing the crank and other cam to rotate.

I've seen it happen more than once and I've done hundreds of timing belts.

 

You get these guys who don't think and put a 24" breaker bar or some big ass socket wrench for extra leverage to rotate the cam. Don't think a 24" breaker bar can provide enough force/leverage to bend a measly valve? Think again.

 

Also, when everything is positioned to tdc, cylinder 5 is on it's way up, almost to TDC on the exhaust stroke, meaning the exhaust valves on #5 are fully open, meaning if the crank is so much as 2-3 teeth unknowingly out of position and the cam springs back on you, your valves just made contact with cylinder 5 piston with the force of the valve springs.

There really is very little room for error with the j series engines when installing the belt, and zero room for error before attempting to start it.

Then again, I have no clue what I really do on a day to day basis, it seems.

 

Still not buying it. Yeah, maybe if they really honk on it when they hit the interference point, but no, not by just rotating it with a socket wrench.

Hard to believe anyone would put a 24" extension on to rotate a cam. It can be done easily with a normal 1/2" socket wrench. But yeah, someone honking on a 24" breaker bar could probably do some damage...