Tyler Lott

So I recently bought a 2008 Acura TL and it cranked fine at first. I changed the spark plugs and got an oil change but I noticed that my car takes longer to start. When I turn my key I get a battery and an oil pressure light but once I go to crank the car takes around 4 to 5 seconds to start. Should I buy a new battery, an alternator, maybe new coil packs, or a starter or any combination of the group. I really need help I love this car and I don’t want to lose it.

peter6

Does car crank really slowly and all lights go very dim and then eventually car starts

or

does it just sits with key turned and does nothing and then eventually starts cranking?

Is HFL disconnected? What age of the battery? Terminals clean?

sparc

Did you use OEM spark plugs? gapped properly? torqued properly?

Tyler Lott

The car cranks when the key is turned like it should normally. It’s just sometimes it takes longer for the car to start on warmer and colder days. The HFL is installed but I’m unsure if it works because I have an aftermarket radio and my steering wheel controls aren’t connected to the radio. As far as the last 2 questions I am unsure.

Tyler Lott

The spark plugs I have are Bosch Iridium Spark Plug 9614 that I got from autozone. They are pre gapped and as far as torque what’s the torque limit for the spark plugs ?

peter6

Technically NGK are the way to go but Bosch shouldn't really cause long crank condition. Is check engine ON?
Can you repeat it every time or it happens only when car is sitting over night/couple hours?

For torque, I believe it was something like 14 ft/lbs when using anti-size.

Tyler Lott

I believe so but it’s when the car is sitting for some hours and ok I’ll check to see what they are torqued at

peter6

So if it cranks just fine and has problems starting after sitting for some time I would suspect fuel pump ("check valve" that should hold pressure allows fuel to drain back to the tank) (delayed start is caused by no fuel / no pressure in the lines, and it takes couple sec. to regain that pressure).

The best way to test that theory would be to connect fuel pressure gauge to the system and check if pressure drops fast over time.

Second best method (because it doesn't require any parts or tools) is to turn key in the ignition until all lights come ON without starting the engine, then turn if OFF and ON and OFF couple times, and THEN try to start the car. Idea is that fuel pump is run every time key is turned ON for couple seconds, and cycling the key will mean more pump run time, which means more pressure. If car starts right away there's your problem.