I didn't have a problem with my transmission until....
#1
I didn't have a problem with my transmission until....
I started messing with it... Well, that's not entirely true. I've got an 05' auto TL with about 123k miles.
I was already in the process of ordering the switches when I got the blinking D light although the car shifted fine, if not perfect. It didn't blink all the time just every now and then. So I ordered the transmission filter, switches, fluids, etc. and did a 1x3 drain/refill with dw-1 and swapped my switches out (waiting on the T-filter for a rainy day).
That shut the blinking D light up but I noticed vibrations in 3rd and 4th under hard accelerating. Uninstalled/reinstalled and double checked the switches, torque specs, part numbers, etc. and same problem. Just this week I notice some slipping from 1st to 2nd and was leaking some ATF fluid so I did a 2x3 and I only drained a quart and change... Topped it off and check the levels and have yet to drive it more than 10 minutes. I put some cardboard underneath to guage how much fluid is leaking within a 12hr period and this morning there are about 6 random 1 drop marks (no grouping) on the cardboard so obviously something is leaking. I check the dipstick, fill bolt and drain bolt but there was zero leakage... I assume I'll need to get it looked at but is there ANY GOOD NEWS???
I was already in the process of ordering the switches when I got the blinking D light although the car shifted fine, if not perfect. It didn't blink all the time just every now and then. So I ordered the transmission filter, switches, fluids, etc. and did a 1x3 drain/refill with dw-1 and swapped my switches out (waiting on the T-filter for a rainy day).
That shut the blinking D light up but I noticed vibrations in 3rd and 4th under hard accelerating. Uninstalled/reinstalled and double checked the switches, torque specs, part numbers, etc. and same problem. Just this week I notice some slipping from 1st to 2nd and was leaking some ATF fluid so I did a 2x3 and I only drained a quart and change... Topped it off and check the levels and have yet to drive it more than 10 minutes. I put some cardboard underneath to guage how much fluid is leaking within a 12hr period and this morning there are about 6 random 1 drop marks (no grouping) on the cardboard so obviously something is leaking. I check the dipstick, fill bolt and drain bolt but there was zero leakage... I assume I'll need to get it looked at but is there ANY GOOD NEWS???
#2
Any input is appreciated...
I guess worse case senario is a total rebuild. Hopefully it's just the seals leaking due to switching to dw-1 from the z-1 crap but with a 125k on the miles clock I wouldn't count out the rebuild.
I guess worse case senario is a total rebuild. Hopefully it's just the seals leaking due to switching to dw-1 from the z-1 crap but with a 125k on the miles clock I wouldn't count out the rebuild.
Last edited by BuffBakerGA; 09-26-2012 at 06:47 AM.
#3
Instructor
Leaking usually doesn't indicate the need for a rebuild - it's just a leak that needs to be fixed. The slipping probably will require one in the future. I personally won't get transmissions rebuilt until they absolutely need it (not just after a "little" vibration), so you could probably get quite a few more miles out of it.
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shellready (11-20-2012)
#5
Team Owner
So it sounds like it was low on fluid at one point. Did adding fluid help?
You had no leaks before you did the switches and there's no fluid around the drain plug? You might check the switches, they can be leaking from the aluminum washer or if they have an internal leak and the oil is coming out of the plug or body, that would explain some of the problems.
I would get rid of the DW-1 and use a DexIII or Type F fluid and see if it goes away. While people debate the use of the Type F, I have 100% Type F and have had it for a long time now with no ill effects. I don't care about that debate but a single drain and fill of Type F will give half or less overall so it absolutely won't hurt anything.
I believe the switches have no effect on the 1-2 shift. How does it shift at full throttle? I don't like how soft my 1-2 shift is. I either take off a little harder than normal to firm up the shift or if I'm going through a parking lot or some slow driving I take off from a stand still, let of the gas so it shifts and then get back on the gas.
So basically read the code to see what's going on, make sure the switches are in the right hole. Make sure the switches themselves aren't leaking fluid. After you do that, do a 1x3 with DexIII or preferably Type F. When it shudders or slips, lift off the throttle. If you lift throttle to let it shift and then get back on the throttle, it will last a long time even if it does need a rebuild. Manually shifting might make this easier.
There are other things you can try such as changing the filter and the solenoid filters but it's a long shot. Still not a bad idea though.
You had no leaks before you did the switches and there's no fluid around the drain plug? You might check the switches, they can be leaking from the aluminum washer or if they have an internal leak and the oil is coming out of the plug or body, that would explain some of the problems.
I would get rid of the DW-1 and use a DexIII or Type F fluid and see if it goes away. While people debate the use of the Type F, I have 100% Type F and have had it for a long time now with no ill effects. I don't care about that debate but a single drain and fill of Type F will give half or less overall so it absolutely won't hurt anything.
I believe the switches have no effect on the 1-2 shift. How does it shift at full throttle? I don't like how soft my 1-2 shift is. I either take off a little harder than normal to firm up the shift or if I'm going through a parking lot or some slow driving I take off from a stand still, let of the gas so it shifts and then get back on the gas.
So basically read the code to see what's going on, make sure the switches are in the right hole. Make sure the switches themselves aren't leaking fluid. After you do that, do a 1x3 with DexIII or preferably Type F. When it shudders or slips, lift off the throttle. If you lift throttle to let it shift and then get back on the throttle, it will last a long time even if it does need a rebuild. Manually shifting might make this easier.
There are other things you can try such as changing the filter and the solenoid filters but it's a long shot. Still not a bad idea though.
The following users liked this post:
BuffBakerGA (10-02-2012)
#7
So it sounds like it was low on fluid at one point. Did adding fluid help? Yes, after more DW-1 the slipping stopped...
You had no leaks before you did the switches and there's no fluid around the drain plug? You might check the switches, they can be leaking from the aluminum washer or if they have an internal leak and the oil is coming out of the plug or body, that would explain some of the problems. I had zero leaks before swapping the switches and zero fluid around the drain plug. I will check the switches for leaks.
I would get rid of the DW-1 and use a DexIII or Type F fluid and see if it goes away. While people debate the use of the Type F, I have 100% Type F and have had it for a long time now with no ill effects. I don't care about that debate but a single drain and fill of Type F will give half or less overall so it absolutely won't hurt anything. Any off the shelf recommendations?
I believe the switches have no effect on the 1-2 shift. How does it shift at full throttle? I don't like how soft my 1-2 shift is. I either take off a little harder than normal to firm up the shift or if I'm going through a parking lot or some slow driving I take off from a stand still, let of the gas so it shifts and then get back on the gas. I've tried to keep the WOT to a minimum lately to avoid any slippage.
So basically read the code to see what's going on, make sure the switches are in the right hole. Make sure the switches themselves aren't leaking fluid. After you do that, do a 1x3 with DexIII or preferably Type F. When it shudders or slips, lift off the throttle. If you lift throttle to let it shift and then get back on the throttle, it will last a long time even if it does need a rebuild. Manually shifting might make this easier. Most of my WOT starts are with the tiptronic to control shift points.
There are other things you can try such as changing the filter and the solenoid filters but it's a long shot. Still not a bad idea though.
You had no leaks before you did the switches and there's no fluid around the drain plug? You might check the switches, they can be leaking from the aluminum washer or if they have an internal leak and the oil is coming out of the plug or body, that would explain some of the problems. I had zero leaks before swapping the switches and zero fluid around the drain plug. I will check the switches for leaks.
I would get rid of the DW-1 and use a DexIII or Type F fluid and see if it goes away. While people debate the use of the Type F, I have 100% Type F and have had it for a long time now with no ill effects. I don't care about that debate but a single drain and fill of Type F will give half or less overall so it absolutely won't hurt anything. Any off the shelf recommendations?
I believe the switches have no effect on the 1-2 shift. How does it shift at full throttle? I don't like how soft my 1-2 shift is. I either take off a little harder than normal to firm up the shift or if I'm going through a parking lot or some slow driving I take off from a stand still, let of the gas so it shifts and then get back on the gas. I've tried to keep the WOT to a minimum lately to avoid any slippage.
So basically read the code to see what's going on, make sure the switches are in the right hole. Make sure the switches themselves aren't leaking fluid. After you do that, do a 1x3 with DexIII or preferably Type F. When it shudders or slips, lift off the throttle. If you lift throttle to let it shift and then get back on the throttle, it will last a long time even if it does need a rebuild. Manually shifting might make this easier. Most of my WOT starts are with the tiptronic to control shift points.
There are other things you can try such as changing the filter and the solenoid filters but it's a long shot. Still not a bad idea though.
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#9
Finally got some answers... Turns out the leak was from the wrong washer in one of the switches which I'm not sold on considering I took the switches out including washers and reinstalled them twice but if it stops the leak, fine. The vibrations was caused by the axles going bad. Switched out the axles and the car rides like new. Looks like the vibrations weren't noticed until I was extra sensitive trying to feel the transmission. Time to go look under the car for leaks...
#11
Team Owner
If the washer was really leaking, I wonder if that might have bled off enough pressure that the pressure switch could not function right. I have no idea how large the feed hole is to the switch but if it's as tiny as the opening in the switch itself it would only need to bleed off a tiny amount of fluid to lose pressure and cause a blinking light. I doubt the orifice is that small but just throwing it out there.
#12
IHC, they claim because I had the wrong washer on the 3rd gear switch (which I didn't, same washer as the 4th gear switch) and that is what caused the leak (which I check around the entire switch and no leaks)... But I let the car sit in the garage for 24+hrs and zero leaks. I'm not 100% convinced since the transmission hasn't been under hard pressure but a fresh piece of cardboard and a couple of days will tell all.
At least the axle replacement took care of the vibrations during acceleration...
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