How come the heat is not HOT?
11-10-2010, 05:40 PM
#2
Senior Moderator
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Better Neighborhood, Arizona
Posts: 45,640
Received 2,329 Likes
on
1,309 Posts
When was the last time you had your coolant changed?
11-10-2010, 05:44 PM
#3
I have the same issue and mine just started today when I left work. Below is why I love Azine so much!
A lot of our questions can be answered using the search function here. I done a quick search and found this thread. This is not a guarantee that this is your problem nor mine but its def worth looking it. Plus there is an easy DIY for it! Just remember next time to search, because this forum has a plethora of INFO for our cars.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/heat-issues-761775/
11-10-2010, 05:56 PM
#4
wow...thanks for the quick response! dont remember when the last time the coolant was changed...but its at the max level. sounds like it could be something with the heat control valve...thanks for the link donnie! i will check it out.
11-10-2010, 06:49 PM
#5
Instructor
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 194
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
11-10-2010, 08:20 PM
#6
Race Director
^^^^ That is freakin' funny!!!
11-10-2010, 08:31 PM
#7
I looked up the part #79710SDAA01 (Hvac - Heater - Control valve) and may run by the dealership tomorrow depending on if mine actuates when the heat is turned on.
Trending Topics
11-10-2010, 11:04 PM
#8
Team Owner
Heater being lukewarm can only be a few things.
Engine not getting up to full temp/very low on coolant.
Water control valve not opening fully.
A trap door in the dash is allowing heated and non heated air to be mixed.
And least likely is corrosion/low flow through the heater core. Our cars aren't old enough to experience this.
You can pop the hood, pull the cable off, and manually push the water control valve to it's full open position temporarily to see if this solves the problem.
Engine not getting up to full temp/very low on coolant.
Water control valve not opening fully.
A trap door in the dash is allowing heated and non heated air to be mixed.
And least likely is corrosion/low flow through the heater core. Our cars aren't old enough to experience this.
You can pop the hood, pull the cable off, and manually push the water control valve to it's full open position temporarily to see if this solves the problem.
12-06-2010, 05:48 PM
#9
Advanced
I have this problem now too..only it's more like NO heat and its in the twenties outside. Then when I turn the car off, the fan stays on for several minutes as if it's overheating. I had a problem this summer with it getting warm so I dumped some royal purple engine coolant in and that seemed to help it. Maybe what I should have done instead is just flushed the coolant. My reserve tank is fine but maybe somehow my main tank is low. This threw engine code P0128 for me, though I got some coolant today so will try tomorrow and it should fix that.
Now if only I could fix why I'm getting an AF error with code P2628...I need to fix it before I get a sticker (which was due in October...)
After spending all my time trying to make the car LOOK good, I'm realizing it's not as fun spending money to fix stuff that goes wrong...
Now if only I could fix why I'm getting an AF error with code P2628...I need to fix it before I get a sticker (which was due in October...)
After spending all my time trying to make the car LOOK good, I'm realizing it's not as fun spending money to fix stuff that goes wrong...
12-06-2010, 06:05 PM
#10
Race Director
I have this problem now too..only it's more like NO heat and its in the twenties outside. Then when I turn the car off, the fan stays on for several minutes as if it's overheating. I had a problem this summer with it getting warm so I dumped some royal purple engine coolant in and that seemed to help it. Maybe what I should have done instead is just flushed the coolant. My reserve tank is fine but maybe somehow my main tank is low. This threw engine code P0128 for me, though I got some coolant today so will try tomorrow and it should fix that.
Now if only I could fix why I'm getting an AF error with code P2628...I need to fix it before I get a sticker (which was due in October...)
After spending all my time trying to make the car LOOK good, I'm realizing it's not as fun spending money to fix stuff that goes wrong...
Now if only I could fix why I'm getting an AF error with code P2628...I need to fix it before I get a sticker (which was due in October...)
After spending all my time trying to make the car LOOK good, I'm realizing it's not as fun spending money to fix stuff that goes wrong...
P0128: Simplest fix is replace the thermostat (gets expensive if it's not that)...But I'd wait until you get the coolant situation resolved and then see if the code comes again.
P2628 is either an open in the sensor circuit, a lose connection (at the sensor, sensor connector, or ecm), or a bad A/F sensor (upstream sensor on rear cat).
12-07-2010, 12:34 PM
#11
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
12-08-2010, 01:12 PM
#12
Advanced
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i've experienced this this same problem since last year when I got my timing belt and water pump job done. The heat has always been luke warm when cranked to 86 degrees and when I come to a traffic light cold air starts to blow through the vents. Could there be air in the system from the coolant flush?
12-08-2010, 01:21 PM
#13
Team Owner
i've experienced this this same problem since last year when I got my timing belt and water pump job done. The heat has always been luke warm when cranked to 86 degrees and when I come to a traffic light cold air starts to blow through the vents. Could there be air in the system from the coolant flush?
12-08-2010, 07:07 PM
#14
Advanced
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
how can that be? when I got the new water pump and timing belt down I dumped the old coolant or put the new one in. I haven't noticed any coolant leaks or anything. I replaced water control valve as well and it still gives the same results. Is there a possibility the heater core is not functioning 100%?
12-08-2010, 07:14 PM
#15
Team Owner
how can that be? when I got the new water pump and timing belt down I dumped the old coolant or put the new one in. I haven't noticed any coolant leaks or anything. I replaced water control valve as well and it still gives the same results. Is there a possibility the heater core is not functioning 100%?
If the air goes cold when you're at idle, it's most likely because the coolant is not circulating through the heater core. Heater core is probably the highest point in the cooling system. Going cold at idle is classic of being low on coolant.
Have you popped the top off of the radiator to check?
There's the off chance of it being a bad thermostat or the belt slipping on the water pump but that' very unlikely and the car would have other symptoms if that were the case.
If it's full of water, check the inlet/outlet hoses that go to the heater. One should be hot and the other warm. If one is hot and the heater is blowing cold air, something in the electronics is malfunctioning, opening or closing the wrong trap door.
I would check the water level asap because if the heater is blowing cold due to the water level being low, you're overheating parts of the engine even if the guage does not show it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rp_guy
Member Cars for Sale
9
07-16-2017 07:33 AM
