Hey, if anyone can help. For some reason the heat in my TL ain't working. The blower is working fine, it's just not coming out hot. I'm not sure what could be the problem just thought someone might know. It's a 2004 so didn't think something like this would happen. Help I'm cold lol

 

check the coolant level. If the level going to be too low then your car is not going to have a working heater. Also the thermostat could be stuck.

 

Get back to us once you have this done.

 

Ok gonna check coolant lvl. If you could, could you explain why coolant lvl would affect the heat. Also the tempature gauge in the dash is at mid lvl like it is all the time. Maybe your talking about the actual thermostat that controls the tempature inside the car, if so is that s big job to replace?

 

Checked coolant lvl. Its at max. Im thinking maybe your right about the thermostat. Because when i first put it on, its coming out warm slowly then starts to blow out cold air. Anyone have more info on thermostats or this issue. Thanks

 

I have the same heater problem since the car was new in 06, took it to the dealer and they said it works just fine... I've been pissed for quite some time. I'm in trouble if it's cold outside, there is very little heat going down to the drivers feet... anywhere else like vents is fine but not at your feet.
This problem has nothing to do with coolant level.

 

Ok so i gave in and went to the dealer to figure out what this problem was. Here goes for the rest of you that might be having the same issue....

Behind the engine is a blue cable...(atleast on my 2004). Apparently that cable is connected to a "Heater Valve" which in turn regulates the tempature. As you raise the tempature in the car this cable opens up the "Heater Valve". So the "Heater Valve" is not opening up fully that is why im not getting full heat potential.

So for those of you that were experiencing similar problems but getting some heat or very little its because of this valve not being fully open to get max heat.

So because the "Heater Valve" is old or worn it needs to be replaced. According to the tech at the dealer.

So i made an appointment at the dealer for Friday to get it replaced.

New "Heater Valve"
Part cost $57.00

and then of course labor $120 or so... total cost to not freeze my ass off this winter $200 or so...btw yeah heated seats just not cutting it.

 

OHHH WOW!!! I was JUST about to make a thread about this! I'm just did my 105k service and I noticed that my heat has been lacking. It'll blow luke warm air while driving and when I come to a traffic light it blows cold air. In 17 degrees weather its awful. My mechanic said the heater control valve is rusted and that it was leaking anti freeze. Could this be the only issue thats not allowing the heat to work to its full potential?

 

BTW i just called my local acura dealer and they said $22 for that part and $98 in labor

 

Tech says this is the issue. Other thing could actually be the cable. But what dealer is this so i can compare it to my dealer and get a discount hehe thanks

 

My advice to you.... go buy the part for $22 as quoted above.... then go to your local mechanic and get it installed for like $25. Close thread mods...

 

Pop the cable off the water valve and have someone move the temp from cold to hot and back again and watch for cable action. Do the same with the water valve moving it by hand and have someone inside the car to make sure it's hot when you have it all the way to the hot side.

 

Please provide the name of the dealer. My dealer my honor the same price. Thank you

 

Acura of Denville in New Jersey.
Where is the water valve? How do you move the temp back and forth?

 

Been quite a while since I've had the covers off, but look at the firewall side of the engine and follow the heater hoses and you'll see a valve under a bracket with a cable attached with heater hose in/out. After the car is up to temp, you can feel the heater hoses going to the valve and after the valve and also the return from the heater core and chances are the incoming will be hot, and the outgoing cool/warm.

Once the valve is found, you can also remove the cable after loosening the clamp, then you can move the lever to see if it is free.

 

Mac i suggest buying the part and just taking it somewhere. it'll be a $75 job verses 200. just hit up J or something. and you can see my car over there ( with no motor) LMAO

 

It's literally a couple hose clamps to replace it. Why pay someone.

 

the 33F weather, the no garage, the OP just wants it done and not do it himself.

Mac, if you want, you can just come thru tonight or something and we'll install it in my lot. i dont know what time im getting out of work today but let me know.

 

The dealer raped you lol...

Here's my DIY on the Heater Control Valve:

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?p=11390744

 

Oh yeah.. the heater control valve is only $12 @ acuraoemparts & the hoses are another $7 for both.. I suggest replacing the spring clamps with screw clamps if you DIY..

 

My mechanic is charging me $68. But I feel like that's too high. I just ordered the part from the dealer for $22. But if this DIY is simple then maybe I can do it myself.

 

If you have the appropriate tools & you take your time it'll take you about an hour including the burping. I'm cheap but $68 isn't bad, but if you have nothing better to do, why not?

 

Alex you know I'm no good at that stuff, that's why I always call you lol. But gimme a call when your free and we can link up if you wanna help. I haven't gone to the dealer yet but I do have an appointment for Friday. If you wanna do it this weekend that'd be cool. Heated seats just ain't cutting it. Thanks all btw for opinions and advice. Hope this thread helped out others that were experiencing similar issues. Azine ftw...and AM hehe

 

LooKs like great dyi but I just don't have the confidence in myself to do it. Lol I'll most likely lose a bolt or something. But thanks

 

yo come thru tomorrow morning. ima give you a call later.

 

I agree with others here. Either DIY or take it to a small shop. Stealership is charging you WAAAYYY too much. If labor is $120, that's about $240/hour. That job would take them <30 min after the car has cooled off a bit. Here is the valve for $13: http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
Mine was leaking, but it never quit working. I replaced it when I did the timing belt/water pump and Intake cleaning/valve adjustment. It's really simple. Either way, $200 is not enough for the stealership. They're gonna find/cause more probems so they can get more money from you. Good luck with it.

 

issue fixed and only cost me $20.00 thanks Alex and Jae FTW. Jae of course to the rescue. He tightened the the screw that was holding the lever to the control valve and adjusted it..heat issue fixed. Thank again all for your help and advice. Money saved went to new cross drilled slotted rotors hehe.

 

Hey I just replaced my HCV. I saw nothing visually wrong with my old one but I replaced it with my new one. It hasn't changed anything. I don't know what else could be wrong with it.

 

I have plenty of hot air like to the vents but when I want just floor heat, I get very little airflow. So in my case, I don't think it's the HCV and guessing that it's a airflow damper tucked deeply under the dash, this would explain why the dealer tried to tell me it was working fine.

Any other airflow like defrost or vents is fine just sucky floor hot airflow.

 

Its an older thread...but lets resurrect

This Saturday I was driving home from my sisters house and no heat. But it was weird, I turned on the heat and instead of it waiting for the car to warm out it just started blowing air, but it was cold. Turned it off, let the car come up to temp, then turned it all back on....still nothing. Get home mad and jump on Azine and find some good info. My thought was that I would need a new valve. Annoying, but not a huge issue. Sunday I get outside and start looking around trying to find this valve, and what do I find, a detached cable and the valve in the "cold" position. So I reattach and test out the heat/cold, and the cable pops off again. I tried a few different things to try and stop the cable from sliding, but i couldn't get any of my ideas to work. Finally i disconnected the cable and just gave everything a little bend. Nothing drastic, but just enough that the cable would gravitate towards staying on instead of popping off. Tested the system again, went back and forth between hot and cold, and all seems good. Gave a look once I got to work this morning and everything seems to be great. Stupid problem but an easy fix. And a big thanks to everyone who pointed me in the right direction and Mojofo for the DIY

 

I'll be getting into my system this week to diagnose. Question, is there just one, or are there two valves - one for drivers and one for passenger?

I have two/three things going on:

Drivers stays on vent - does not go to heat or defrost for airflow, but the temp does adjust

Passenger - does not get warm - and it sort of moves from vent to the other positions, but not fully...

I may be pulling the box out... Hate to think of doing that... There may be glass stuck in there - front window was smashed by a truck...

 

Just the one valve...Look at the DIY.

 

Yeah, I saw that and figured there was only one on there, but wanted to make sure. I see there are two air mix, two mode control motors.

 

Just drove home to find that my heat is cold/cool in up to 86 degrees but as soon as I put it on HI, its hot. I'm hoping mine is only the valve also.

 

^+1, any updates?

 

Mine is like that too and has been for years. I can put it on high and then back down to a lower temp but I have to turn it to high first or no heat.

 

That post was 3 years ago, surely he'll respond.