High revs = "locked" clutch pedal
High revs = "locked" clutch pedal
Hello community. I have a 2005 TL with a 6-speed manual with 188k on the odometer and I have an issue with my clutch "locking up" whenever I rev my engine up. Let's say I am going from a stop and I rev up to the redline or just under. For some reason, my clutch pedal gets "stuck" because of this. By stuck I mean it won't allow me to depress it OR if it is depressed at the time (say I shift it while it's revved) it gets stuck depressed against the floor. The only way to release it is to try pressing the clutch and revving the throttle until it frees up. I have checked the fluid levels and they appear to be fine. My transmission fluid was recently changed as well as the drive axles on both sides but the problem was there before and after those services. To me, it seems like maybe the hydraulic clutch fluid is low (even though I checked it) or maybe there is air in the line somewhere causing a vacuum type pull on the clutch pedal? Not really sure. This is my first hydraulic clutch in an Acura. I read where the clutch in these is different from a standard clutch. Could it be that simple? Just changing it to a traditional clutch? Any help would be appreciated. I tried my best to search before posting so I apologize if this is a duplicate topic.
+1 on the pressure plate fault. Not detrimental, and you can continue getting many more miles until you change it out.
It will still engage but without much clutch travel when it does get stiff
It will still engage but without much clutch travel when it does get stiff
Last edited by WDPanda; Apr 18, 2021 at 07:07 PM.
Thanks all for the replies. Eventually I plan on changing out the clutch with either a Luc or SPEC clutch. Hoping that will fix my issues. As long as I don't race the car, it's fine. It just sucks because sometimes I like to get a little froggy.
I've been recently encountering this issue as well. Weird that this seems to be a normal occurrence lol i changed out my clutch master cyl and it went away for a while; just started back up again this week.
Damn I think I have the same problem. It really only happens when I'm on the highway I think it's because I don't really rev it out on the street. No lights on the dash. I tried ignoring it because RPMs would jump up but it was suddle. I was driving on on the highway today and it shot up from 5000-5500 RPM to almost redline and I got the same locked clutch pedal feeling.
I already changed my master and slave cylinder so I know it's not that.
I already changed my master and slave cylinder so I know it's not that.
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From my experience, it has something to do with the self adjustment mechanism on the pressure plate. It adjusts (hardens) and in turn that causes the disk to engage almost instantly in just a little clutch pedal travel. New master/delay valve delete seems to help a little but that may be due to the clutch engaging faster/smoother. It won't leave you stranded.
Last edited by WDPanda; Apr 24, 2021 at 06:45 PM.
From my experience, it has something to do with the self adjustment mechanism on the pressure plate. It adjusts (hardens) and in turn that causes the disk to engage almost instantly in just a little clutch pedal travel. New master/delay valve delete seems to help a little but that may be due to the clutch engaging faster/smoother. It won't leave you stranded.
Shouldn't take any time to "cool off" it comes back to normal when you pump the pedal (double clutch). Or anticipate the next gear change to be quicker (almost dump the clutch at 5-7k if you feel the pedal hardened). If you dump it below 5k, you won't rev match easily and cause driveline shock, at which point you should double clutch in neutral.
It's fixed!
UPDATE!!
I just had my clutch and flywheel replaced with a Spec Stage 1 non-ratcheting clutch and aluminum flywheel and man what a difference! No more clutch pedal lock-up and the engine revs much faster than before. I also notice more pickup at higher speeds than with the old setup. The shop that did the work fell in love with my car after the swap. There is a bit of a learning curve coming of a factory clutch that was hot-spotted and on its way out but I got acclimated to it pretty quickly. The car accelerates much faster now so I have to be careful when I take off or people think I'm trying to race them, LOL. One thing I did notice is you need to be more precise with your shifts and it helps to match the revs with this new clutch.
My next planned upgrade is to overhaul the suspension and go with Tein Flex Z with an EDFC Active Pro w/GPS. I can't wait.
I just had my clutch and flywheel replaced with a Spec Stage 1 non-ratcheting clutch and aluminum flywheel and man what a difference! No more clutch pedal lock-up and the engine revs much faster than before. I also notice more pickup at higher speeds than with the old setup. The shop that did the work fell in love with my car after the swap. There is a bit of a learning curve coming of a factory clutch that was hot-spotted and on its way out but I got acclimated to it pretty quickly. The car accelerates much faster now so I have to be careful when I take off or people think I'm trying to race them, LOL. One thing I did notice is you need to be more precise with your shifts and it helps to match the revs with this new clutch.
My next planned upgrade is to overhaul the suspension and go with Tein Flex Z with an EDFC Active Pro w/GPS. I can't wait.
UPDATE!!
I just had my clutch and flywheel replaced with a Spec Stage 1 non-ratcheting clutch and aluminum flywheel and man what a difference! No more clutch pedal lock-up and the engine revs much faster than before. I also notice more pickup at higher speeds than with the old setup. The shop that did the work fell in love with my car after the swap. There is a bit of a learning curve coming of a factory clutch that was hot-spotted and on its way out but I got acclimated to it pretty quickly. The car accelerates much faster now so I have to be careful when I take off or people think I'm trying to race them, LOL. One thing I did notice is you need to be more precise with your shifts and it helps to match the revs with this new clutch.
My next planned upgrade is to overhaul the suspension and go with Tein Flex Z with an EDFC Active Pro w/GPS. I can't wait.
I just had my clutch and flywheel replaced with a Spec Stage 1 non-ratcheting clutch and aluminum flywheel and man what a difference! No more clutch pedal lock-up and the engine revs much faster than before. I also notice more pickup at higher speeds than with the old setup. The shop that did the work fell in love with my car after the swap. There is a bit of a learning curve coming of a factory clutch that was hot-spotted and on its way out but I got acclimated to it pretty quickly. The car accelerates much faster now so I have to be careful when I take off or people think I'm trying to race them, LOL. One thing I did notice is you need to be more precise with your shifts and it helps to match the revs with this new clutch.
My next planned upgrade is to overhaul the suspension and go with Tein Flex Z with an EDFC Active Pro w/GPS. I can't wait.

But also to note, I've put over 60k miles on my 2008 with that same "problem" and she's still going strong. It got to the point I barely notice it because I adjusted my clutch habits to ride it less at certain points. The slave cylinder delete is a must.
Last edited by WDPanda; Oct 24, 2021 at 11:43 PM.
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