LeVeL

TL;DR - 820mi since alleged reset, system still shows EGR and O2 Sensors not being ready to test.

On September 1st I went to the dealer because they seem to be the only ones capable of correctly balancing my wheels. While there they offered to do my inspection and I agreed. They came back after a while claiming that the system isn't ready to test and showed me a printout that said that it was reset 0mi ago. My battery was last disconnected 2000mi ago (yes, I checked), I haven't had a single CEL in the years that I've owned this car ('06 6MT ~125k mi), so I'm guessing a tech disconnected my battery for some reason. Anyways, they let me borrow their reader for a few days but even after a few hundred miles the scanner still showed EGR and O2S as not ready. I just stopped by a local garage today to see if the system is ready yet (a good 820mi since that dealer visit) and it's still not ready!

Again, no CELs, car drives fine although I've had some idle surges for a while, gas mileage seems normal (maybe 1mpg off but I can't be sure)... What's the deal? Bad cat? Bad O2 sensor? Computer acting up? Already got harassed by a cop with nothing better to do over my rejected inspection sticker.

thoiboi

Undo battery again and start over

LeVeL

Disconnected today; will report back in a few days.

Dhiren314

https://www.smogtips.com/smog-questi...-2004-Acura-TL
"How to Complete an Acura TL Drive Cycle

In most cases, your vehicle's emission monitors should run during normal driving on both city and highway traffic conditions and over the course of 200 to 300 miles. However, due to different driving habits, the criteria required to run a monitor may not always be met. Following the Acura TL drive cycle below should allow the emission monitors to complete. The drive cycle must be followed accurately.

Performing the driving pattern below will allow your Acura TL to make ready all I/M emission monitors in preparation for a smog inspection. Follow the drive cycle carefully. Take extra caution when performing the drive cycle on public roadways. If you feel you will be unable to follow the Acura TL drive cycle safely, please seek assistance from an smog check repair station or Acura dealership. They may be able to perform the drive cycle utilizing a dynamometer, and specialized scan tools. Prior to beginning the drive cycle ensure your vehicle has between 15% to 85% fuel in the gas tank, and that the engine is cold. It is best to start the driving cycle in the morning (after a cold soak).

OBD-II Monitor Drive Cycle - This drive trace is intended to make READY all the emission monitors listed below in one driving trace.

Pre-Conditioning Requirements

1. MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) must be off

2. Cold start (Best to start in the morning after the vehicle has sat overnight)

3. 1/4 to 3/4 fuel in gas tank. Ensure your Acura is not running empty or full of fuel.

Driving Procedure

1. Without depressing the accelerator pedal, start the engine and idle for 20 seconds.

2. Keep the transmission in Park. Increase the engine speed to 2,000 rpm and hold until engine temperature gauge rises to 1/4 of the scale. Approximately 3 minutes of idle time should accomplish this.

3. Begin driving. Increase speed to 50-60 mph as soon as safe and possible and maintain speed for at least 20 minutes. This step should be performed on the highway and with the transmission in Drive. Cruise control should not be enabled at any time.

4. Drive an additional 90 seconds without moving the accelerator pedal at all. Your vehicle speed may vary slightly, but no greater than 3 mph. If it is not possible to maintain steady speed for 90 seconds, drive for at least 30 seconds, then repeat 30 second steady speedy intervals, twice (for a total of 90 seconds). The goal is, at some point of highway driving, to not move the accelerator pedal for 90 seconds.

5. Exit highway and reduce speed to city/suburban traffic. Drive for at least 10 minutes. I went to about 45 MPH

6. When possible, allow vehicle to coast for 10 seconds without depressing the accelerator or brake pedal.

Drive Cycle Complete. If possible perform the drive cycle twice and using a scan tool check for emission monitor readiness."

I had an accident and they removed the battery making me have to redo it all, I drove endlessly but to no avail. The smog technician told me to do this and it was perfect. I went late night and did it twice and next day it was ready to test.

LeVeL

Follow the procedure above today* and it still says EGR and O2 Sensor (not heater, that one is fine) are incomplete. Including the test loop posted above, I've done ~460mi since I reset the battery following thoiboi's advice. Do I need to wait until tomorrow to test it again?




*After ~15min on the highway I hit traffic and had to slow way down. Made up the two minutes I was going slow for by driving an extra 2-3min at 55mph. Around town GPS put me on a road where I could cruise steady at 45mph so after a few minutes of that I got back on the highway, drove normal (75mph) for 15min, then got onto local roads near my house and drove around for 20min. So I didn't follow the procedure posted above exactly to the T but overall I did complete each step.

Dhiren314

LeVeL

Like I said, that was on my way back AFTER following the highway procedure you outlined before. I did drive 20min at 55mph.

Dhiren314

My bad I did not see that, I have no idea how it still is not ready. You've had a substantial amount of drive miles. Maybe something is wrong electronically.

thoiboi

Yeah.. I'm at a loss of ideas as to why those aren't ready yet.. Perhaps there is something wrong the sensors , but typically a CEL would show.. EGR is easy to clean, try doing that and seeing if you can get that one to ready at the very least.

WDPanda

Wow EGR and O2 are almost ready quickly for me. Catalyst and Evap take a couple of drives. Evap runs when gas tank is 25-75% full.

LeVeL

1800+ miles later, still not ready. Gas mileage is perfectly normal (~23mpg, mix of congested highway and local roads), no CEL still. Local shop suggested that it could need a new cat or new O2 sensor(s). Since O2 sensors are cheaper than new cats, that's where I'm going to start.

Which are the correct part numbers?

Front: 36534-RCA-A00
Rear: 36536-RCA-A00

or

Front: 36532-RCA-A02
Rear: 36542-RKB-004

thoiboi

https://www.oemacuraparts.com/v-2006...ine--converter

THe latter 2.. the first two are just the "stay"s

1fstTL

iTrader: (1)

damn what a PITA.

WDPanda

I was thinking your O2 sensors too. Are you able to use an app like torque to scan the O2 read outs?
usually the sensors throw codes

LeVeL

Guess what? Still not done.

Brought it to a local garage that I trust. They cleaned out the EGR but O2 and EGR sensor cycles are still incomplete. They ruled out O2 sensors and focused on the unstable idle instead. They determined that the throttle position sensor is ready at 7% open when idle really should be under 2% so the ECU basically never recognizes true idle so the monitors don't run their cycles. They did an idle relearn and it now reads correctly at ~1.7% open at idle but not it's not holding the idle steady. They disconnected the battery for 12hrs and that didn't help either. They're calling in a Honda tech who can "reprogram the idle" with some sort of specialized Honda software but he won't be in until Monday.

For now I got my car back and the idle is doing crazy things. Say I'm rolling up to a stop sign and take it out of gear when it's at 3k rpm - it stays at 3k rpm even though it's in neutral. I have to use the transmission to slow the engine down basically and once it's below 2k or so it falls down to regular idle when it's out of gear. I've never seen anything like this and it makes me miss cable throttles.

Just thought I'd share the ongoing saga. I'll give them a call tomorrow and see if they've considered replacing the APP sensor.

thoiboi

Yeah.. sounds like your APP or TPS sensor is on the fritz..

LeVeL

Figured I'd update this in case someone comes across this thread in the future.

Last thing to be replaced after the headaches described above was the APP sensor. Car runs great now!

Soseductivesf

so no codes? I’m thinking I’m going through the same thing

jkdman1234

I’m habing The same trouble on my ‘97 3.0 CL. Can’t pass smog cause I have incomplete on evap, catalyst, and O2. Have driven it about 800 miles. Been thru the drive cycle numerous times. Mechanic is suggesting to change the catalytic converter but that’s expensive and doesn’t explain the incomplete evap either, I don’t believe.

shurik74

This helped me a lot! I only had catalyc "not ready" for 1K miles too... this approach above made to "ready".... car is 2015 Acura RLX