Help please: Battery light issue

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Old Oct 21, 2018 | 01:47 PM
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Help please: Battery light issue

Hello everyone,

I need some help with my ACURA TL 2004 3.2L base model with 205km on it.

about three weeks ago, my battery light turned on around the same time my engine needed an oil change. I got the A3 code which means oil change + transmission oil change “soon”. I have yet to do the transmission oil change but have done the synthetic engine oil change.

it was running perfectly fine until I noticed that when I put my speakers on, I hear a whining sound when I accelerate the car. As I press harder on the pedal, the pitch gets higher. Notice, when the speakers are off, the engine sounds fine and I don’t have this issue. The only weird electrical issue I experienced before this was my right side window sometimes would go up and down when I commanded it to fully wind up, causing me to press it multiple times, but that has stopped.

a week ago, my mechanic tested my voltage, everything turned out fine. My battery is charging, alternator seems to be charging it. He said that if my alternator or battery was bad, my car would’ve died already. No longer than 1-2 days of driving. But I’ve been basically driving it everyday for the past three weeks. He recommend me to check out his electrical specialist, but he’s booked until Tuesday. I’m still going but I want to see your suggestions so I can point him in the right direction.

thanks to all who reply,

i appreciate your insight 💚
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Old Oct 22, 2018 | 04:38 AM
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The whining is usually interference. If I am using the aux cord for my Bluetooth module and charging my phone or otherwise using a cig outlet for anything, I get that whine that increases with the throttle. If I unplug the charger, it goes away. I added a aux cord noise isolator in line and now I can charge and play music simultanrously.
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Old Oct 22, 2018 | 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Hyperblu
The whining is usually interference. If I am using the aux cord for my Bluetooth module and charging my phone or otherwise using a cig outlet for anything, I get that whine that increases with the throttle. If I unplug the charger, it goes away. I added a aux cord noise isolator in line and now I can charge and play music simultanrously.
thanks for your reply. Looked into it said I should change the amp.

what about the battery light? Voltage from battery is stable, alt has been charging, so it should be a belt issue?
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Old Oct 22, 2018 | 07:33 AM
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I've had several erroneous "flukes" with both of my TLs. I've had the check starting system,charging system, and tpms systems all randomly decide to throw messages and mysteriously vanish shortly after.

As for the amp, I could see that being plausible. I'm just giving an instance since I've ran into the same interference issue before and know one instance that would cause it...

Chances are... neither issue is probably even related to the other. I'm convinced that it's the nature of the beast when it comes to the TL to have random faults for seemingly no reason.
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Old Oct 22, 2018 | 07:40 AM
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That's not to go without saying that I know the 3rd gen TL inside and out and both of mine are/were meticulously maintained by myself and that no expense has been spared on either car. Which is saying a lot for someone who has specialized in Honda/Acura work for over a decade.
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Old Oct 22, 2018 | 07:47 AM
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From what I understand, the common amp failures are capacitors exploding/leaking in the amp resulting in low volume issues. The noise interference may just be an early symptom of this that may have went unnoticed by other owners, but it's not terribly uncommon to have outside sources of interference, particularly with devices that aren't in compliance with fcc guidelines on how they transmit frequencies.
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Old Oct 23, 2018 | 10:53 AM
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Did the mechanic used proper alternator tester, or did he just used multimeter to check the voltage when engine was running?
Do you have printout similar to:



From my limited experience, when diode in the alternator is open, alternator might still output around 13V which is enough to keep the car running. However it will cause some problems and illuminate the battery light.
Again, diode open is fairly uncommon scenario, as 90% of time alternator just doesn't output anything.

I would get battery light sorted out first before you start looking at the amp.
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