Help...can't get my front rotors off...
#1
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Help...can't get my front rotors off...
Hey Everyone...I just got new pads and rotors for my '06 TL with Brembo's and started with the left front. Everything is typical until I try to remove the 2 screws in the base of the rotor. Does anyone know if these are right hand or left hand thread or if the have loc-tite on them from the factory? I don't want to torque to hard before I know the answer.
Thanks...
Thanks...
#2
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They follow the same lefty loosy righty tighty that you're used to
Problem is most people will try and use a regular old screwdriver, which usually just strips them. An impact screwdriver is your best friend at this point. If you don't have that, use a hammer and chisel. Trust me, that works about 98% of the time (and it's my personal choice at work, believe it or not...)
If you mess them up taking them off, don't worry, they aren't needed when you reinstall everything. Are they "supposed" to be there? Will you crash and die without them? Good luck with the rest of your install
Problem is most people will try and use a regular old screwdriver, which usually just strips them. An impact screwdriver is your best friend at this point. If you don't have that, use a hammer and chisel. Trust me, that works about 98% of the time (and it's my personal choice at work, believe it or not...)
If you mess them up taking them off, don't worry, they aren't needed when you reinstall everything. Are they "supposed" to be there? Will you crash and die without them? Good luck with the rest of your install
#4
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Right! Impact Driver.
Seems to help to give 'em on or two solid whacks in the "tight" direction, then reverse the driver and give a few hard whacks in the "loose" direction. Use the correct size impact bit - ? #4, I think. Should come right out.
If they strip Drill the heads and pop 'em off when you take the rotor off. Forget 'em and move on.
.
Seems to help to give 'em on or two solid whacks in the "tight" direction, then reverse the driver and give a few hard whacks in the "loose" direction. Use the correct size impact bit - ? #4, I think. Should come right out.
If they strip Drill the heads and pop 'em off when you take the rotor off. Forget 'em and move on.
.
#5
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Right! Impact Driver.
Seems to help to give 'em on or two solid whacks in the "tight" direction, then reverse the driver and give a few hard whacks in the "loose" direction. Use the correct size impact bit - ? #4, I think. Should come right out.
If they strip Drill the heads and pop 'em off when you take the rotor off. Forget 'em and move on.
.
Seems to help to give 'em on or two solid whacks in the "tight" direction, then reverse the driver and give a few hard whacks in the "loose" direction. Use the correct size impact bit - ? #4, I think. Should come right out.
If they strip Drill the heads and pop 'em off when you take the rotor off. Forget 'em and move on.
.
I tore 3 bits using the impact driver, I eventually drilled them out. Damn retention screws! The reason they are on there is to secure the rotors during the assembly process. The wheel is what locks the rotor on the hub so you don't need them, but if you put them back on.. put some anti-seize on them.
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#8
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Tried and failed. It must have been a newer TL you saw. I would go ahead and spend $10 to get an impact driver at AutoZone or your preferred shop. Otherwise skip the drama and drill the top out. You only have to drill enough to pry the remaining head of the screw out.
#10
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Correct me if I'm wrong b/c I've never owned a TSX, but I think the difference is the rotors on the TL are prone to warp due to overheating. I believe the retention screws being exposed to the higher heat transferring from rotor surface to hub is causing the screws to lock up. So I would guess the TSX rotors would endure less wear / heat cycles and wouldn't lock up as bad as on the 3G TL. Just a thought.
#12
corrosion makes them stick on tight--the impact screwdriver is better than a plain screwdriver since it applifies the hammer hit and makes it impact the screw with a twist motion--hit it twice in the right tight direction and then left loosen
Some wd type spray before helps
Have personally worked on 2 year old TL's with severly stuck screws, and the rotors felt like they were welded on!!
Some wd type spray before helps
Have personally worked on 2 year old TL's with severly stuck screws, and the rotors felt like they were welded on!!
#13
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
corrosion makes them stick on tight--the impact screwdriver is better than a plain screwdriver since it applifies the hammer hit and makes it impact the screw with a twist motion--hit it twice in the right tight direction and then left loosen
Some wd type spray before helps
Have personally worked on 2 year old TL's with severly stuck screws, and the rotors felt like they were welded on!!
Some wd type spray before helps
Have personally worked on 2 year old TL's with severly stuck screws, and the rotors felt like they were welded on!!
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