Heat Issues
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Heat Issues
Hey, if anyone can help. For some reason the heat in my TL ain't working. The blower is working fine, it's just not coming out hot. I'm not sure what could be the problem just thought someone might know. It's a 2004 so didn't think something like this would happen. Help I'm cold lol
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
Ok gonna check coolant lvl. If you could, could you explain why coolant lvl would affect the heat. Also the tempature gauge in the dash is at mid lvl like it is all the time. Maybe your talking about the actual thermostat that controls the tempature inside the car, if so is that s big job to replace?
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
Checked coolant lvl. Its at max. Im thinking maybe your right about the thermostat. Because when i first put it on, its coming out warm slowly then starts to blow out cold air. Anyone have more info on thermostats or this issue. Thanks
#6
7th Gear
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Seattle, WA
Age: 67
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Crappy Heater
I have the same heater problem since the car was new in 06, took it to the dealer and they said it works just fine... I've been pissed for quite some time. I'm in trouble if it's cold outside, there is very little heat going down to the drivers feet... anywhere else like vents is fine but not at your feet.
This problem has nothing to do with coolant level.
This problem has nothing to do with coolant level.
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
Ok so i gave in and went to the dealer to figure out what this problem was. Here goes for the rest of you that might be having the same issue....
Behind the engine is a blue cable...(atleast on my 2004). Apparently that cable is connected to a "Heater Valve" which in turn regulates the tempature. As you raise the tempature in the car this cable opens up the "Heater Valve". So the "Heater Valve" is not opening up fully that is why im not getting full heat potential.
So for those of you that were experiencing similar problems but getting some heat or very little its because of this valve not being fully open to get max heat.
So because the "Heater Valve" is old or worn it needs to be replaced. According to the tech at the dealer.
So i made an appointment at the dealer for Friday to get it replaced.
New "Heater Valve"
Part cost $57.00
and then of course labor $120 or so... total cost to not freeze my ass off this winter $200 or so...btw yeah heated seats just not cutting it.
Behind the engine is a blue cable...(atleast on my 2004). Apparently that cable is connected to a "Heater Valve" which in turn regulates the tempature. As you raise the tempature in the car this cable opens up the "Heater Valve". So the "Heater Valve" is not opening up fully that is why im not getting full heat potential.
So for those of you that were experiencing similar problems but getting some heat or very little its because of this valve not being fully open to get max heat.
So because the "Heater Valve" is old or worn it needs to be replaced. According to the tech at the dealer.
So i made an appointment at the dealer for Friday to get it replaced.
New "Heater Valve"
Part cost $57.00
and then of course labor $120 or so... total cost to not freeze my ass off this winter $200 or so...btw yeah heated seats just not cutting it.
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#8
OHHH WOW!!! I was JUST about to make a thread about this! I'm just did my 105k service and I noticed that my heat has been lacking. It'll blow luke warm air while driving and when I come to a traffic light it blows cold air. In 17 degrees weather its awful. My mechanic said the heater control valve is rusted and that it was leaking anti freeze. Could this be the only issue thats not allowing the heat to work to its full potential?
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
Tech says this is the issue. Other thing could actually be the cable. But what dealer is this so i can compare it to my dealer and get a discount hehe thanks
#12
Team Owner
Pop the cable off the water valve and have someone move the temp from cold to hot and back again and watch for cable action. Do the same with the water valve moving it by hand and have someone inside the car to make sure it's hot when you have it all the way to the hot side.
#13
Instructor
Thread Starter
#14
=I hate cars; Pop the cable off the water valve and have someone move the temp from cold to hot and back again and watch for cable action. Do the same with the water valve moving it by hand and have someone inside the car to make sure it's hot when you have it all the way to the hot side.
#15
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
Been quite a while since I've had the covers off, but look at the firewall side of the engine and follow the heater hoses and you'll see a valve under a bracket with a cable attached with heater hose in/out. After the car is up to temp, you can feel the heater hoses going to the valve and after the valve and also the return from the heater core and chances are the incoming will be hot, and the outgoing cool/warm.
Once the valve is found, you can also remove the cable after loosening the clamp, then you can move the lever to see if it is free.
Once the valve is found, you can also remove the cable after loosening the clamp, then you can move the lever to see if it is free.
#16
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
iTrader: (10)
Mac i suggest buying the part and just taking it somewhere. it'll be a $75 job verses 200. just hit up J or something. and you can see my car over there ( with no motor) LMAO
#17
Team Owner
#18
Chapter Leader (NY/NJ)
iTrader: (10)
the 33F weather, the no garage, the OP just wants it done and not do it himself.
Mac, if you want, you can just come thru tonight or something and we'll install it in my lot. i dont know what time im getting out of work today but let me know.
Mac, if you want, you can just come thru tonight or something and we'll install it in my lot. i dont know what time im getting out of work today but let me know.
#19
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
The dealer raped you lol...
Here's my DIY on the Heater Control Valve:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?p=11390744
Here's my DIY on the Heater Control Valve:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?p=11390744
#20
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
Oh yeah.. the heater control valve is only $12 @ acuraoemparts & the hoses are another $7 for both.. I suggest replacing the spring clamps with screw clamps if you DIY..
The following users liked this post:
YeuEmMaiMai (11-26-2013)
#22
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
If you have the appropriate tools & you take your time it'll take you about an hour including the burping. I'm cheap but $68 isn't bad, but if you have nothing better to do, why not?
#23
Instructor
Thread Starter
Alex you know I'm no good at that stuff, that's why I always call you lol. But gimme a call when your free and we can link up if you wanna help. I haven't gone to the dealer yet but I do have an appointment for Friday. If you wanna do it this weekend that'd be cool. Heated seats just ain't cutting it. Thanks all btw for opinions and advice. Hope this thread helped out others that were experiencing similar issues. Azine ftw...and AM hehe
#26
Instructor
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Little Rock, AR
Age: 46
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I agree with others here. Either DIY or take it to a small shop. Stealership is charging you WAAAYYY too much. If labor is $120, that's about $240/hour. That job would take them <30 min after the car has cooled off a bit. Here is the valve for $13: http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no
Mine was leaking, but it never quit working. I replaced it when I did the timing belt/water pump and Intake cleaning/valve adjustment. It's really simple. Either way, $200 is not enough for the stealership. They're gonna find/cause more probems so they can get more money from you. Good luck with it.
Mine was leaking, but it never quit working. I replaced it when I did the timing belt/water pump and Intake cleaning/valve adjustment. It's really simple. Either way, $200 is not enough for the stealership. They're gonna find/cause more probems so they can get more money from you. Good luck with it.
#27
Instructor
Thread Starter
issue fixed and only cost me $20.00 thanks Alex and Jae FTW. Jae of course to the rescue. He tightened the the screw that was holding the lever to the control valve and adjusted it..heat issue fixed. Thank again all for your help and advice. Money saved went to new cross drilled slotted rotors hehe.
#29
7th Gear
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Seattle, WA
Age: 67
Posts: 7
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My problem is actually How AirFlow to the floor.
I have plenty of hot air like to the vents but when I want just floor heat, I get very little airflow. So in my case, I don't think it's the HCV and guessing that it's a airflow damper tucked deeply under the dash, this would explain why the dealer tried to tell me it was working fine.
Any other airflow like defrost or vents is fine just sucky floor hot airflow.
Any other airflow like defrost or vents is fine just sucky floor hot airflow.
#30
Full of water...
Its an older thread...but lets resurrect
This Saturday I was driving home from my sisters house and no heat. But it was weird, I turned on the heat and instead of it waiting for the car to warm out it just started blowing air, but it was cold. Turned it off, let the car come up to temp, then turned it all back on....still nothing. Get home mad and jump on Azine and find some good info. My thought was that I would need a new valve. Annoying, but not a huge issue. Sunday I get outside and start looking around trying to find this valve, and what do I find, a detached cable and the valve in the "cold" position. So I reattach and test out the heat/cold, and the cable pops off again. I tried a few different things to try and stop the cable from sliding, but i couldn't get any of my ideas to work. Finally i disconnected the cable and just gave everything a little bend. Nothing drastic, but just enough that the cable would gravitate towards staying on instead of popping off. Tested the system again, went back and forth between hot and cold, and all seems good. Gave a look once I got to work this morning and everything seems to be great. Stupid problem but an easy fix. And a big thanks to everyone who pointed me in the right direction and Mojofo for the DIY
![Smile](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
This Saturday I was driving home from my sisters house and no heat. But it was weird, I turned on the heat and instead of it waiting for the car to warm out it just started blowing air, but it was cold. Turned it off, let the car come up to temp, then turned it all back on....still nothing. Get home mad and jump on Azine and find some good info. My thought was that I would need a new valve. Annoying, but not a huge issue. Sunday I get outside and start looking around trying to find this valve, and what do I find, a detached cable and the valve in the "cold" position. So I reattach and test out the heat/cold, and the cable pops off again. I tried a few different things to try and stop the cable from sliding, but i couldn't get any of my ideas to work. Finally i disconnected the cable and just gave everything a little bend. Nothing drastic, but just enough that the cable would gravitate towards staying on instead of popping off. Tested the system again, went back and forth between hot and cold, and all seems good. Gave a look once I got to work this morning and everything seems to be great. Stupid problem but an easy fix. And a big thanks to everyone who pointed me in the right direction and Mojofo for the DIY
![Thumbs Up](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/thumbsup.gif)
Last edited by blkaspec; 11-01-2010 at 09:48 AM.
#31
Are there two or just one?
I'll be getting into my system this week to diagnose. Question, is there just one, or are there two valves - one for drivers and one for passenger?
I have two/three things going on:
Drivers stays on vent - does not go to heat or defrost for airflow, but the temp does adjust
Passenger - does not get warm - and it sort of moves from vent to the other positions, but not fully...
I may be pulling the box out... Hate to think of doing that... There may be glass stuck in there - front window was smashed by a truck...
I have two/three things going on:
Drivers stays on vent - does not go to heat or defrost for airflow, but the temp does adjust
Passenger - does not get warm - and it sort of moves from vent to the other positions, but not fully...
I may be pulling the box out... Hate to think of doing that... There may be glass stuck in there - front window was smashed by a truck...
#32
Race Director
#33
#36
Team Owner
Mine is like that too and has been for years. I can put it on high and then back down to a lower temp but I have to turn it to high first or no heat.
#37
Chapter Leader (Southern Region)
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