I completed my 5AT to 6MT swap and in my 2005 TL, and had the car towed to the dealership to have the keys programmed.

The tech took me out to my car when he put it in 1st and let off the clutch slowly it started to shutter violently, the tech didn't even want to try and road test it, which I agreeded with. We tried reverse same violent shutter. I have replaced 3 clutches in the past and have never had this happen I started to think it maybe the final drive or LSD, but after searching I am wondering if it is a contaminated friction disc, misaligned clutch, or something else????

Any ideas, and suggestion are much apprecited....... Thx in advance

I will go back to the dealer tomorrow and have them jack up the front end and put it in first and spin the wheels and do the same in nuetral to check the LSD and final drive for any binding or thunking sounds.

I put in a brand new OEM Luk flywheel and clutch, I swapped the intermediate & half shafts from the donor 6MT TL

 

Funny I'm having the same issue except I have a 5AT... My mechanic believes that it may be that the vacuum on the rear mount isn't connected. Also I get the violent shudders when the AC is on and the car is at idle. It only really shudders at idle in D and R.

 

forgot to mention all mounts were replaced with OEM mounts except for the nrg engine torque dampner so I no it is not the mounts going bad

 

Pilot bearing installed?

 

Yep new throw out and pilot bearings installed
My best assumption is that the clutch got out of alignment during install due to my impatience or that the friction disc is contaminated (probably not but I did replace the rear main oil seal u never know).
I will find out this weekend when I get to drop the transmission again and learn that going slow will always be better than rushing to get the job done!!!

I also spoke to Luk tech support and they said to go test drive it that the have seen this before with new clutch break in hmmmm..... not so eager but I will give it a try before dropping the subframe and tranny back out

 

Can't see how a disc can get out of alignment because if it did, the input shaft wouldn't go through the disc and into the pilot bearing. If rear seal were leaking I'd think you'd see some evidence of oil. Will be interesting to see what you find.
Was the trans shaft checked for any play?
How about motor, trans mounts?

 

I never understood why people think a disc can be misaligned.

What does the preload have to do with the function of the clutch? Could that cause it to chatter if not done correctly? I've only installed a conventional clutch after removing the stock SAC.

You might want to also check the FW and PP to make sure they aren't warped. I know you said they are new but they could have come from the factory defective.

 

Never did a clutch job on the TL, but was the pressure plate loaded properly?

 

You need to use the pressure plate compressor tool before bolting it down. It bolts to the block and preloads the fingers of the PP evenly so when you bolt it down the clutch engages evenly. Distorted PP fingers might be causing your issue.

Found a pic of it:
http://images.google.ca/search?hl=en...aCCNxcTOwMWhM:

 

Sorry, link is glitchy but if you scroll half way down page there are three pics of the PP tool in use

 

People have done it without the tool.

 

Update: So I put the car up on a lift and had someone put it in gear and start letting out the clutch pedal, and found out the intermediate and right drive shaft are toast, a lot better than the clutch being the issue.

Luk's clutches come pre-loaded no need for the tool, it is needed when you take the pressure plate off and put back on or take it to a machine shop to have it compressed again.

 

This thread contradicts your statement. YMMV, I never reinstalled the stock clutch, I just remember seeing this in the past.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/luk-clutch-do-not-come-preset-come-inside-860524/