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My 2007 TL-S (134k miles) mysteriously developed a front end creak last week after the temps dropped to around 10. It seems to do it under the following two conditions only: when ambient temps are 45-50 and lower, and only over speed bumps, particularly big ones. I can't seem to reproduce it taking them at an angle, and it completely disappears if temps go above 50. It's extremely loud and obnoxious, and I can best describe it similarly as the sound your windshield wipers make when they're dry, but a bit more creaky.
So far I've only had the chance to test the shocks by pushing and rocking the car, and the suspension moves back without any bounce. The car drives and handles normally (no bouncing, no excessive body roll), and driving over rough/uneven roads doesn't reproduce the sound. In the past year, I've replaced my side motor mount and the upper transmission mount, so those can be ruled out (I also physically inspected them and they still look new.)
Turning the wheel lock to lock also doesn't reproduce the sound.
Has anyone had this issue before?
What should I look at next?
I'm thinking of sway bar bushings. I had an old Saab that did this when it got old and I went over the speed bumps at work. Only in really cold weather and only for the first couple hits. When you hit at an angle the sway bar doesn't rotate the same way in the bushings as when you hit it bump square on. Square on both wheels travel upward simultaneously and the sway bar will want to rotate in both bushings. When you hit at an angle the first wheel will travel up but the sway bar will "torque" or "twist" more rather than rotate since the other wheel is still down and works against it.
I'm thinking of sway bar bushings. I had an old Saab that did this when it got old and I went over the speed bumps at work. Only in really cold weather and only for the first couple hits. When you hit at an angle the sway bar doesn't rotate the same way in the bushings as when you hit it bump square on. Square on both wheels travel upward simultaneously and the sway bar will want to rotate in both bushings. When you hit at an angle the first wheel will travel up but the sway bar will "torque" or "twist" more rather than rotate since the other wheel is still down and works against it.
I know the subframe has to be lowered to remove the sway bar, but does it have to be lowered to replace the bushings?
Check this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-t...shings-812675/
To help diagnose you can spray silicone spray (not WD40) and see if it will seep into between the bar and the bushings. It won't work forever but if the noise changes or goes away you know you are on the right track
FYI - finding stuff like this is easier by using Google rather than the forum search. I just entered "site:acurazine.com sway bar bushings" into Google (without double quotes) .
Check this thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-t...shings-812675/
To help diagnose you can spray silicone spray (not WD40) and see if it will seep into between the bar and the bushings. It won't work forever but if the noise changes or goes away you know you are on the right track
FYI - finding stuff like this is easier by using Google rather than the forum search. I just entered "site:acurazine.com sway bar bushings" into Google (without double quotes) .
Good find - and you're right, I dislike the forum search. I'll post some updates, but any other suggestions are still welcome in the mean time.
I have a similiar noise- a slight squeak when it gets below about 45deg. It's only on the right side. I've checked everything. Sprayed silicone spray everywhere. Even loosed the top of the strut assembly and dropped it down some then lubed the top hat. No luck. The strut assemblies are new that I replaced about a year ago. I've lubed the front sway bar bushings. End links are also new Moog. I'm starting to think it is the body of the car. It does it over dips in the road a lower speeds. Or I've thought maybe the strut assembly itself. I found posts on the Honda Odyssey forums where folks were getting brand new OEM struts squeaking in a similiar fashion in cold temps. Or maybe it's because I took the car from its original home of almost 10 years in southern Florida and it doesnt like the cold. Lol
Last edited by MarcDavidoff; 01-13-2017 at 04:29 PM.
I doused every bushing I could in the front end, including the sway bar bushings. It hasn't been as blistering cold, but I haven't heard the sound at all ever since. I used silicone grease spray.
This happens to my car too '08 TL, still happening so I'm not sure what the cause of it. I just recently replaced side motor mount because it is cracked, so I am thinking it could be my front and rear mount needs to be replaced as well.
I always thought it was the axles. The sound changes (at least on mine) as I accelerate through a turn.
Mine makes this this creaking sound whenever I do a turn when
a) the car is still cold, and
b) the temperature are super cold out.
once the engine warms up, it goes away. Mine has been doing it for two years now and I have yet to see any issues. I figure the axle(s) may be on its/their way out, but meh, until it snaps, I'm not changing anything.
I always thought it was the axles. The sound changes (at least on mine) as I accelerate through a turn.
Mine makes this this creaking sound whenever I do a turn when
a) the car is still cold, and
b) the temperature are super cold out.
once the engine warms up, it goes away. Mine has been doing it for two years now and I have yet to see any issues. I figure the axle(s) may be on its/their way out, but meh, until it snaps, I'm not changing anything.
Mine didn't do it when I was turning - only when going over a big speed bump. Just an update, I replaced my front motor mount recently, it was completely torn. Front end feels quieter than ever (also replaced side motor mount and upper trans mount last year).
Mine didn't do it when I was turning - only when going over a big speed bump. Just an update, I replaced my front motor mount recently, it was completely torn. Front end feels quieter than ever (also replaced side motor mount and upper trans mount last year).
It was pretty cold this morning, and the sound is back. I think its the sway bar bushings... I think you have to lower the subframe to remove them... I hope not.
Yes the center bushings you need to lower the subframe for. Silly design. I greased everywhere I could with silicone grease and silicone spray with no luck. I even bought a small needle injector and injected grease under the front bushings and that didn't reduce the noise at all. I'm thinking it could be my right front strut itself. I replaced the whole assembly as a unit from Acura not too long ago and then it seemed the squeak came soon after only when cold out. I had read on the Honda Odyssey forums that they were having squeak issues with brand new cars and it was something with the new struts
Man, this has been happening to me for AWHILE. Every winter it comes back whenever it is cold out and only happens fresh out of my parking spot wherever I may be. It does stop as soon as she warms up. I have had 2 people look at it and no luck. Some have told me it could be the axle, CV joints, etc... I guess I won't know until something breaks. I am just glad that Spring and Summer are soon to come so I don't have to hear the scary clicking noise first thing in the AM!
I replaced front engine mount, thought it was the thing causing the noise. Found out it was torn and needed replacement anyway, but the sound didn't go away so definitely not from the engine mount. It only happens over bumps. Not sure if it's from suspension or what.
I tackled a front end creak some time ago. It was more pronounced when going over speed bumps.
Eventually, I removed my strut for some reason and moved my lower control arm by hand up and down and was able to replicate the creaks.
I purchased two new lower control arms ( it was the bushings )and replaced them.
I tackled a front end creak some time ago. It was more pronounced when going over speed bumps.
Eventually, I removed my strut for some reason and moved my lower control arm by hand up and down and was able to replicate the creaks.
I purchased two new lower control arms ( it was the bushings )and replaced them.
So it is either part #9 or part #10, or #11 in the above picture? I'm asking because I'm going to try greasing them first. I didn't really pay attention to what I sprayed down the first time.
Yeah, the lower control arm bushings would be #'s 9, 10, and 11.
Probably a waste of money to replace the entire control arm, but it did cost me a decent amount to have my compliance bushings pressed out because the place took the control arm off the car. Hindsight 20/20, I should have just had all 3 bushings done, but I will probably tackle them myself if I have to replace any of them again.
I would check the condition of all your suspension bushings and see if anything looks like it's in need of replacing.
Yeah, the lower control arm bushings would be #'s 9, 10, and 11.
Probably a waste of money to replace the entire control arm, but it did cost me a decent amount to have my compliance bushings pressed out because the place took the control arm off the car. Hindsight 20/20, I should have just had all 3 bushings done, but I will probably tackle them myself if I have to replace any of them again.
I would check the condition of all your suspension bushings and see if anything looks like it's in need of replacing.
Couldn't you just go with aftermarket control arm? or is it not advisable going aftermarket vs OEM? I see on Rockauto, each control arm is like $60 vs $300 OEM, or $60 for 3 OEM bushings. I just figured buy the aftermarket control arm already have bushings on it, which would save alot of time replacing it.
Usually it's the big bushing (#10) that cause the noise, it's pretty easy to replace it right on the car with simple DIY tool and much easier than replacing the entire LCA. See post #1293 below. I recommend going with OEM bushing than aftermarket.
I replaced front engine mount, thought it was the thing causing the noise. Found out it was torn and needed replacement anyway, but the sound didn't go away so definitely not from the engine mount. It only happens over bumps. Not sure if it's from suspension or what.
Did you check the side engine mount for damage too?
Couldn't you just go with aftermarket control arm? or is it not advisable going aftermarket vs OEM? I see on Rockauto, each control arm is like $60 vs $300 OEM, or $60 for 3 OEM bushings. I just figured buy the aftermarket control arm already have bushings on it, which would save alot of time replacing it.
I would encourage you to do some research on this one. I'm not entirely sure how the aftermarket control arms hold up. If you were to buy one, I would go with the Moog.
I could have went and just had the bushings replaced but I used my brothers account to get the honda parts.
Long story short, it would have costed just about the same for me if I purchased the bushings and had someone press them in + labor.
I checked everything. The compliance bushings are torn. I'll just continue to use it as is, my friend said it's not worth the hassle to replacing it.
The upper transmission mount broke in 3 places. I'll just put window weld on it. When I put the dust cover back on, I broke the screws that attach the dust cover, anyone know where to get them? I've attach picture to show what they look like.
The rear engine mount is torn on 1 side so I'll continue using it. I used my finger to feel for the tear and took a pic of it since I can't see it with the cover in place. I just removed total 3 screws for the mount, didn't unbolt the bottom 4.
01-13-2017, 07:59 AM
I am just glad that Spring and Summer are soon to come so I don't have to hear the scary clicking noise first thing in the AM!
