Go to a good independent shop.

 

Hi jlmejia316, I tried to reply to your IM but your inbox is full:

Hey! We have sold these bushing sets all over the country including the north east and eastern canada. We've had ZERO complaints from the main bearing failure from any customers over the years related with wear or corrosion.

Marcus
949-295-1668
https://www.heeltoeauto.com/bushing-...ring.pr.3.html

 

i have a 2005 TL.

what are the part numbers for the LCA bushing?

do all 3 bushings need to be replaced or just the big one?

Thanks

 

Is there any polyurethane kits for the 2005 tl, I started reading this thread and spent a few hours reading it (only made it to the 14th page) so sorry if I missed it. I am redoing my entire suspension and it would be a shame if I replaced everything with stock stuff and have the same problems. I found these but it is a universal fit. I would like to use the polyurethane bushings because it completely transformed my civic with the energy ones.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/prothane-ma...d10y2005g2u0j1

 

I don't think so because the poly would limit movement, hence oem or pci and that's it.

 

Poly won't allow the roll in this position. It's either OEM rubber or spherical. The OEM rubber allows dynamic toe under braking and acceleration which aid in stability. They also cost $200 less.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Schley-Produc...e+bushing+tool

anybody know what mm size socket this tool uses? I know it's bigger than a 21mm socket.

 

If I had to guess, I would say 1-inch (26mm).

 

If you scrolled down, someone answered the question..


Question:
What size socket (mm or sae) is used with this tool? i know it's bigger than 21mm since that didn't work on it.
Answer:
22mm or 7/8
By Thomas Yi on July 12, 2016

 

Yeah, that was me. I asked that question on Amazon.

It's 22mm socket for the bolt and the 24mm wrench for the longer bolt on the other side.

 

I'm trying to source the two hex bolts and could only find Grade 5, Coarse thread 1/2"-13, 8" and 10" bolts that come with standard tread length. That means it's not fully treaded thru the shaft; the tread only goes up about 1.5" from the bottom of the shaft. Would the coarse thread and the not fully treaded bolts work for the homemade tool? Want to make sure before pulling the trigger.

Thanks for the help.
Mike

 

One more question about the Homemade tool, is the socket from Tractor Supply 2-1/8" or 2-1/4? Seen both from different members that done the DIY.

 

Finally replaced the compliance bushings on my lower control arm (LCA); the other two bushings seem to be fine. The bushing replacements got rid of most of the clucking noises I experienced in the last month or so. It didn’t feel like I needed an alignment but I will get one and tires balanced just to be sure.I just wanted to post this to help others that maybe in the same situation and also thanks other postings that came before me. Special thanks to MLue1 and nfnsquared for sharing your experiences. I followed the youtube video below by removed the compliance bolt (19mm, 75.9 lbs/ft), the LCA rear bolt (17mm, 47 lbs/ft) and loosen up the axle nut (36mm, 181 lbs/ft) while the rest of the LCA is still on the car. To be honest, I don’t even know if the axle nuts need to be loosen since I didn’t see any movement on them while replacing the bushing.
= 0

Parts list for the homemade tool I used to press out and in the bushing:

A. 1/2" x 8" Grade 5 bolt (press out); standard coarse thread
B. 1/2" x 10" Grade 5 bolt (press in); standard coarse thread
C. Grade 5 1/2" washers (Qty 8) and nuts (Qty 2)
D. 3 1/4" socket from Amazon (OTC (1908) $21):

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-1908-6-poi.../dp/B00063YJ4O" target="_blank">http://www.amazon.com/OTC-1908-6-poi.../dp/B00063YJ4O

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-1908-6-poi.../dp/B00063YJ4O">http://www.amazon.com/OTC-1908-6-poi.../dp/B00063YJ4O" /> http://www.amazon.com/OTC-1908-6-poi.../dp/B00063YJ4O">http://www.amazon.com/OTC-1908-6-poi.../dp/B00063YJ4O

E. 2 1/8" socket from Tractor Supply ($18); please note that 2 1/4" socket will be too large.

Notes (similar to nfnsquared’s):

1. Freeze the bushings as suggested.
2. Lightly sanded the inside of the control arm and put a light coat of grease on it and the bushing.
3. Grease the thread on the two bolts
4. I start pressing the bushing with hand wrenches then using an impact once the homemade tool is set correctly.
5. Use the Tractor Supply socket to seat the new bushing by tapping on it with a hammer.
6. 36mm socket may be rented from Autozone for free if you don’t have one.
7. A helper will be great to move things along although my son was not interested.

Good luck!!
Mike

 

Great job!! Glad the homemade tool is getting some use

 

Just wanted to report back that my front alignment was "just a little off" from the alignment report so I could have got away with skipped it. It could be luck but nevertheless a good measure.

 

Bringing back this thread. I'm due to replace my front compliance bushings and I was wondering did you replace it with an OEM or aftermarket part?

 

Went with aftermarket the 2nd time: PCI bushings. DO IT !!!!

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-t...cement-954321/

 

Thank you. I'll definitely give these a look. Shipping to Canada is going suck

 

Is loosening up the axle nut really necessary? I don't see how that would help anything.

 

I would replace the LCA bushing without loosen the axle nut if I have do it again. I don't believe it is necessary when I replaced mine.

 

I could only get my hands on 9" 1/2 grade 5 bolts. Is this sufficient?

Also, my 3 1/4" socket is 8 point not 6 point. does that matter too?

 

9" should be fine. Depending on how long the threaded portion is, you'll probably need to add more washers or some other form of spacer (e.g. oversized nut) for the press out phase.

The napa socket I used is 8-sided. That looks like the same socket. As long as the minimum inside diameter is 75 mm or greater, it will be fine.

 

scholar and a gentleman, you are. This is getting done Saturday morning wish this luckless bastard some.

 

Vibration of steering wheel at high speeds, when driving and accelerating....is this the bushings?

 

I would visual inspect the bushings to see if they're damaged.

 

so..leave it on and don't risk popping the shaft out?

 

wow. kinda of a bitch but at least it's done.

 

^^^^

 

Hey man, your tool was great. It popped the bushing out like a breeze. Aligning them in was kind of a pain but it got it done! Thanks!

 

Glad it worked for you!!

Yeah, the hole in the OEM bearings is off-center, so alignment can be a bit tricky.

Get the PCI bearings and you won't have to deal with an off-center hole

 

I discovered 'PCI Spherical Bearings' on this forum about 4 years ago and we have driven it with these in ever since. I made the bushing press out kit that I believe is earlier on this thread that uses two giant sockets, a bunch of washers, and a long bolt/nut. That thing works pretty durn good! The problem was getting them back in because the old lower control arm hole was a little 'egg-shaped'. I got one in after screaming at it for a few hours and bleeding a bit, but had to have the second one pressed in for $20 and 5 minutes of my time at a garage. After getting them in, all of the other slight issues then appeared in the car's front-end alignment that needed to be addressed. I ended up replacing both front struts and the upper A-frame because one side was slightly out of whack and I wanted both of them to match. After that, the car handles like no other car I have ever driven in. Beautiful drive on asphalt, but a little rigid on bad concrete interstates... Some days when driving this car it will give you goosebumps and make your eyes moist It's really that kind of a drive after changing out the compliance bushings with the spherical bearings and resolving any other front end issues. It's WELL worth dropping $300+ on them for a permanent solution to the front end issues. The car goes right where we steer it now, and there is NO squishiness to the front end when we hit the brakes in a turn...at any speed. It's perfect, other than the feel of the ride on some interstate concrete roads, and the fact that you have got to have the alignment of the car correct after this. If there is too much castor or camber off from other worn out parts you will feel it, so go ahead and fix those things. This upgrade does not have any 'slop' to let you get away with driving a worn out front end like a wallowed-out rubber bushing does, so plan to fix your car correctly if you do this. Having said all of that, this upgrade is a no-brainer. It's not even a debate... I am a satisfied customer with plenty of personal experience with these bearings now, and since no one has control over my opinion I can say whatever I want about them. How is that for a recommendation?

 

Great review! FYI, now you can purchase only the PCI main bushings for only ~$200 and don't have to spend $300 to buy the whole set, making them an even better value!!

You should post your review in this thread as well:

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-t...cement-954321/

 

I changed all tree bushing on control lower arm using harbor freight MADDOX Front Wheel Bearing Adapters, 3 sets of jaw pullers, + 30m, 28mm 3/4 socket wrench and Ball joint / U-joint press (rent) from Oreily auto parts.
Hardest one is to replace bushing where struts is mounting.

 

Just did my lower control arm bushings - replaced with PCI. Definitely tighter, car goes where you point it, no vagueness on the highway, and that's with the winter tires still on (a long story). I can't wait to put the summer tires on!

TL-Rocket

 

Replaced mine 2 year ago... brought it to my mechanic for a new wheel bearing and he informed me they're torn - again..

sigh 600cad to replace both

 

Your mechanic charged you 600 CAD or 480 USD for the Americun folks to replace two bushings (that cost MAYBE 80 bucks USD in parts with dealership markup)


You need to find a new mechanic or there was some other services provided in that price...

 

damn... I go to a pretty respected garage too

 

Your post dated 01-01-2015 (post #1153) showed that you paid to get them replaced, have you replaced with OEM at that time?
What did you replaced them with this time? I doubt you went with OEM again.

My 2006 TL with 90,350 miles have tear on both sides, still not too bad but need new ones soon. Thinking about going with PCI, but exposed bearings is keeping me from ordering. Does anyone have long term experience with PCI bearings? Please share. Thanks!

 

there was a guy on here in the main PCI thread that said he had no degradation over a few years

 

^^^^^^^^^