F&F maxed out with finger gap?
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A6 and TL
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From: New York/Brampton Canada/SoCal
F&F maxed out with finger gap?
Hey guys,
So I was trying to lower my front to go about another inch down. I have about a one finger gap.I have the F&F coilovers and these are tuned from Marcus himself so I never messed with the preload. So not having a low profile jack yet a local guy with a TSX was helping me but ran into some weird problem. I have all the wrenches and the guy didn't want to adjust the height using the wrench and he said the best to adjust it is moving the shockbody itself.
Well he loosened the bottom locking ring and after turning the shockbody a few times maybe after about 40-50 turns it stopped turning. And he put the wheel back on and the car was not any lower. So he tells me these are maxed out and will not lower anymore.
Reason I don't get that is because when I had these first installed at my buddies shop the car was slammed all around. We had to get it on the lift again and I remember when raising the rears the shockbody was stiff as fuck and wouldn't turn by hand so we had to use the wrenches.
So before I do this on my own I was wondering is it true? Is it true if you can't turn the shockbody it means the coilover is maxed out? And for the F&F Type 1 where the preload is already set you loosen the bottom ring with the smaller wrench and with the bigger wrench you turn the (bottom top ring)?
So I was trying to lower my front to go about another inch down. I have about a one finger gap.I have the F&F coilovers and these are tuned from Marcus himself so I never messed with the preload. So not having a low profile jack yet a local guy with a TSX was helping me but ran into some weird problem. I have all the wrenches and the guy didn't want to adjust the height using the wrench and he said the best to adjust it is moving the shockbody itself.
Well he loosened the bottom locking ring and after turning the shockbody a few times maybe after about 40-50 turns it stopped turning. And he put the wheel back on and the car was not any lower. So he tells me these are maxed out and will not lower anymore.
Reason I don't get that is because when I had these first installed at my buddies shop the car was slammed all around. We had to get it on the lift again and I remember when raising the rears the shockbody was stiff as fuck and wouldn't turn by hand so we had to use the wrenches.
So before I do this on my own I was wondering is it true? Is it true if you can't turn the shockbody it means the coilover is maxed out? And for the F&F Type 1 where the preload is already set you loosen the bottom ring with the smaller wrench and with the bigger wrench you turn the (bottom top ring)?
f&f 1's will lay frame if you want them to. there is no way they are maxxed. when i installed mine we cracked the front bumper when we lowered the jack it was so low. something is up, sometimes they dont want to turn did you try PB blaster or something like that? maybe it's seizing up inside
What do you mean they were tuned by Marcus himself? If I've traced the trail, I believe these were my coil overs that I had on my car for about 150 miles, then sold to a guy, who then sold them to you.
They came from "HeelToe" not properly adjusted to spec. I called Marcus and I believe I adjusted the pre-load correctly and then adjusted the height. They are interchangeable. You get to a point where you can't adjust the height anymore without loosening the upper collar. (From what I remember - this was a year ago). It's a lot of back and forth to get the right height - because you have to adjust the upper to get to the lower etc etc. You shouldn't need the wrenches to adjust the height - you should be able to spin the shock body w/ your hand. The wrenches are for the final "tightening" into place.
I've been reading some of your threads about issues you've had since installing them, and it really sounds like you haven't experienced coil overs yet - let alone "lower end" coil overs (let's face it $600 is CHEAP for coil overs.) From the limited time I drove on them, these things were ROUGH. The handling was awesome - but my gosh the ride was jarring. You've got to expect some noise with these things.. And the noise that will be generated from other parts of the car because of this stiff suspension.
IMO, these are ok if you're on a budget... But if you've got a 3G that isn't a beater and in really good shape, and you want it to be a comfortable daily driver, get better coil overs and get ones with dampening adjustment.
They came from "HeelToe" not properly adjusted to spec. I called Marcus and I believe I adjusted the pre-load correctly and then adjusted the height. They are interchangeable. You get to a point where you can't adjust the height anymore without loosening the upper collar. (From what I remember - this was a year ago). It's a lot of back and forth to get the right height - because you have to adjust the upper to get to the lower etc etc. You shouldn't need the wrenches to adjust the height - you should be able to spin the shock body w/ your hand. The wrenches are for the final "tightening" into place.
I've been reading some of your threads about issues you've had since installing them, and it really sounds like you haven't experienced coil overs yet - let alone "lower end" coil overs (let's face it $600 is CHEAP for coil overs.) From the limited time I drove on them, these things were ROUGH. The handling was awesome - but my gosh the ride was jarring. You've got to expect some noise with these things.. And the noise that will be generated from other parts of the car because of this stiff suspension.
IMO, these are ok if you're on a budget... But if you've got a 3G that isn't a beater and in really good shape, and you want it to be a comfortable daily driver, get better coil overs and get ones with dampening adjustment.
Last edited by jayunsplanet; May 13, 2013 at 01:33 PM.
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