F**K! I stripped my endlink bolt today.
#1
too many hobbies...
Thread Starter
F**K! I stripped my endlink bolt today.
So I put aside two to three hours today to install my new Progress RSB. I got the passenger side endlink bolt off. That was a pain in the a$$. Then I started on the driver side. A few minutes later, the darn thing was stripped, and my allen wrench was not keeping the bolt from turning with the nut!!! Ughhhh. I am so frustrated right now.
I put the passenger side endlink nut back on and just slightly tightened it. So now both endlinks are just loosely connected. I am going to give up and take it to my shop and see if they can handle this for me. Is it ok for me to drive about 8 miles with the old swaybar loosely connected like that?
Also, I am guessing that they will just replace the whole endlink with a new one. I thought about doing that myself, but if I strip the other endlink nut, I will really be in trouble!
I put the passenger side endlink nut back on and just slightly tightened it. So now both endlinks are just loosely connected. I am going to give up and take it to my shop and see if they can handle this for me. Is it ok for me to drive about 8 miles with the old swaybar loosely connected like that?
Also, I am guessing that they will just replace the whole endlink with a new one. I thought about doing that myself, but if I strip the other endlink nut, I will really be in trouble!
#2
AZ Community Team
Join Date: May 2007
Location: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Posts: 32,488
Received 7,770 Likes
on
4,341 Posts
Usually you just cut the bolt off and replace that.
#3
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (4)
I was doing an a-spec install and I noticed that my end link bolt wasn't there and that my sway bar wasn't attached to it on drivers side. Went to the parts store but couldn't just get the bolt, had to buy a 30$ part. But I charmed the sales lady and she gave me the bolt off the part and said the box came opened and was missing a bolt.
#4
AZ Community Team
Join Date: May 2007
Location: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Posts: 32,488
Received 7,770 Likes
on
4,341 Posts
myron & the parts desk lady:
#5
AZ Community Team
Join Date: May 2007
Location: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Posts: 32,488
Received 7,770 Likes
on
4,341 Posts
You're correct, btw. You can cut the nut off to get eh end-link off, but the end-link needs to be replaced.
#6
too many hobbies...
Thread Starter
I decided to give it the old college try and go for it myself. I am picking up a new endlink from the dealer today (I ordered it yesterday). Last night I sprayed the other endlink end (the one that attaches it to the bracket) with some PB Blaster so hopefully I won't have the stripping issues. I will post an update tomorrow. (Hopefully a GOOD update!)
#7
too many hobbies...
Thread Starter
Weird. I had to pay an extra $3 to ADD the two nuts to my order because the endlink didn't come with the nuts. Total cost was $21 so I'm not complaining - just noting it.
EDIT: Woops - just noticed you said bolt, and not nut. Sorry!
EDIT: Woops - just noticed you said bolt, and not nut. Sorry!
Last edited by pkarandi; 09-21-2010 at 08:17 AM.
Trending Topics
#9
too many hobbies...
Thread Starter
oh - so then what I said applies. Strange 'cause I just picked up the parts a little while ago and the endlink and two nuts are in three separate baggies (i.e. separate parts). Who knows...
Now that I have the parts... I can't wait to get outta work tonight so I can finish this!
Now that I have the parts... I can't wait to get outta work tonight so I can finish this!
#10
Middle Finger anyone?
iTrader: (9)
It is 100% garaunteed that an endlink will strip or just refuse to cooperate. They are a stupid design. When I replaced my suspension I just cut the old endlinks off because one would not come off.
I replaced them with MOOG endlinks from advance auto. They have several advantages over the stock ones. Way more stout and stronger than the stock ones, meaning they won't break with thicker sway bars. They have grease fittings and are serviceable with a lifetime waranty. And they don't use an allen key to tighten them. All you need is a wrench and socket to tighten them. Very very easy!
I replaced them with MOOG endlinks from advance auto. They have several advantages over the stock ones. Way more stout and stronger than the stock ones, meaning they won't break with thicker sway bars. They have grease fittings and are serviceable with a lifetime waranty. And they don't use an allen key to tighten them. All you need is a wrench and socket to tighten them. Very very easy!
#11
too many hobbies...
Thread Starter
Crap! Seriously? This is the first I am hearing about them! Damn - I would have gladly upgraded to these had I known. Well, I'm going to move forwardd with what I have, and upgrade to these if it does not work out.
#13
too many hobbies...
Thread Starter
SUCCESS! Well, halfway at least. I got the old endlink off at the bracket end. The PB Blaster really did the trick. I had barely any torque against the bolt to get the nut off. Then I took off the bushings and removed the stock swaybar.
I ran out of time, and daylight, to work on installing the new bar. Will tackle that tomorrow, but I am guessing the hardest part now will be getting the new bar in place. After that, it's just a matter of tightening bolts. I am so relieved!
I ran out of time, and daylight, to work on installing the new bar. Will tackle that tomorrow, but I am guessing the hardest part now will be getting the new bar in place. After that, it's just a matter of tightening bolts. I am so relieved!
#14
too many hobbies...
Thread Starter
Thanks for posting the pic nicourt. Is that a pic of the rear swaybar/endlink? My bracket looks really different (on the rear at least). Now that I know what the heck I am doing, I can easily upgrade the endlinks with these Moog ones at a later date...
#16
AZ Community Team
Join Date: May 2007
Location: N35°03'16.75", W 080°51'0.9"
Posts: 32,488
Received 7,770 Likes
on
4,341 Posts
Definelty the rear.
#17
Suzuka Master
I was told in her if you used an impact and a socket it will spin it off .... found this out after I spent an hour in each one ,... 1/8 off ... 1/16 turn on ... 1/8 turn off .. etc.
#18
too many hobbies...
Thread Starter
Woohoo! New swaybar is in! I installed it on the tight setting, and the car handles much better. The Type-S should feel like that stock, but for $140, no big deal. This really is a must-have upgrade, considering it is not a huge investment.
A word to the wise: Make sure you spray those endlink bolts with PB Blaster/Liquid Wrench/WD-40!!!! If I had done this, and then waited like 20 minutes, I probably would not have stripped the bolt. That lack of patience turned a 2 hour job into a 4 day job!!!
Thanks guys, for the help and advice.
A word to the wise: Make sure you spray those endlink bolts with PB Blaster/Liquid Wrench/WD-40!!!! If I had done this, and then waited like 20 minutes, I probably would not have stripped the bolt. That lack of patience turned a 2 hour job into a 4 day job!!!
Thanks guys, for the help and advice.
#19
Instructor
iTrader: (3)
WOW I'm sorry OP I missed this... Yes this is the Progress Bar with the New MOOG link installed (Rt Side)... And I see you found out what I found out... PB Blaster FTMFW!!! Its the best stuff in the world!!! The Rear Sway was definately one of the easiest Mods I've done.... just a matter of wiggling it out!!! Glad you found sucess!!!
#20
too many hobbies...
Thread Starter
WOW I'm sorry OP I missed this... Yes this is the Progress Bar with the New MOOG link installed (Rt Side)... And I see you found out what I found out... PB Blaster FTMFW!!! Its the best stuff in the world!!! The Rear Sway was definately one of the easiest Mods I've done.... just a matter of wiggling it out!!! Glad you found sucess!!!
Yes - kind of embarassing that a simple mod like that would take me 4 days! But I guess that's how it goes sometimes...
#22
Instructor
#23
Burning Brakes
iTrader: (5)
4 of this part number (upper and lower nut for links): 90002-S10-000
1 of these(right side endlink): 52320-SFY-J01
1 of these(left side endlink): 52325-SFY-J01
#26
too many hobbies...
Thread Starter
I don't know about the H&R bar, but (assuming my memory serves me correctly) on the Progress RSB that I installed, the holes closer to the bar is the stiffer setting, the holes closer to the front of the car are for the softer setting. I used the stiffer setting.
Don't you have the installation instructions that came with the swaybar? That will tell you which holes are which.
Don't you have the installation instructions that came with the swaybar? That will tell you which holes are which.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Sarlacc
Console & Computer Gaming
5
09-30-2015 02:15 PM